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Old 12-27-2016, 01:44 AM   #451
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I had the chance to testfit the new motormount and center bulkhead on the desc410 and my 410v3 , not having my v5 yet, but forgot, the mounts on my 210f are the same, never used them, as you may know, i try to fit the original 210 gear box in it....

Sorry, but the newer mounts will not fit, without many modifications, the screw holes are closer to each other on the new mounts, than on the older version and the motor mount on the previus models are mounted offset from the dex410v1-v4 and the also the desc410.
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Old 12-27-2016, 04:36 PM   #452
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Well this build has stopped.

While assembling the front driveshaft, I found one to have a serious bind in it. Basically if you tilt the driveshaft more than 5,it binds up. I tried lightly polishing the driveshaft bushings and inner cup of the wheel axle, to no avail. It may be machined wrong. I've never seen this before. So I ordered TD310120 bushings, TD310438 77mm driveshaft,TD310112 short drive axle with 2mm pins and TD310113 bushings. The whole assembly basically. It was easier to just spend the money than deal with waiting on TD to reply, the email I've used for questions is the same as their customer service so......

Besides, I was three gold 1mm shims short anyway. I don't like using the included plastic spacers. I built the DEX210V3 using those spacers and I found that they all crush and become deformed. So now all my TD cars and trucks are using the alloy spacers. They look tricked out anyway, lol.

I also had to order new machined spur gears and Steel pinions. I was originally going to do this car up as a 13.5 car. 13.5 4wd buggy is the new hot thing in the South East. But I instead went with an Orion R10.1 and VTS2 XLW 6.5T. Obviously requiring a massive gearing change-up.

If I like how this car handles compared to my B44.3 FT and incoming B64, I'll pick up a DEX410V4 to run as my 13.5 4wd car this year.

I'll tell you all one thing, if things don't work out with Team Durango this year, come December 2017 I'll be having a fire sale of a complete TD lineup with nice little 7 bin Stanley organizers full of spare parts.
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Old 12-27-2016, 09:32 PM   #453
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sorry to hear that man. it could be you have a burr present. I think I had to file lightly a similar part to get it to move freely. Seen this before on different vehicle models.
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Old 12-27-2016, 11:03 PM   #454
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I had the EXACT same issue on the front driveshaft on one side. Contacted Tower Support and they sent me two different CVD's that were off the DEX410v4. Slightly different design but they work fine.
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Old 12-28-2016, 03:38 AM   #455
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Quote:
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sorry to hear that man. it could be you have a burr present. I think I had to file lightly a similar part to get it to move freely. Seen this before on different vehicle models.
Yeah I had hoped it was something simple like that. I polished the parts to the point they almost looked chrome.. Lol. Definitely no burrs. I was really trying hard to prevent having to wait. It's really not a big deal. I never expect perfection on anything mass produced. It was just really weird, for the life of me I can't see why it's binding. That's why I just bought new.

I hadn't thought about contacting Tower. I'm used to Associated products where your deferred to the cs department in Cali for any and all issues. Oh well, there's a company on eBay called HopMeUp out of North Carolina that I've been getting TD parts from. They ship quick so I should have something by the end of the week.

This will be the fifth Durango kit I've worked with recently and this is the first problem related to quality control so I'd say they're doing pretty good.

From what I'm reading this is a completely different car than the V4 correct?
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Old 12-28-2016, 04:22 AM   #456
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Hi Alan, just a thought, may you did not hit the flat surface with the grub screw on the pin so the grub screw is not deep enogth in the bushing, maybe worth to check that?
Is it all arround, or just on one spot?
Thats the only thing i could see a bind!?

I got my parcel yesteday, right now i'll start building the kit!
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Old 12-28-2016, 07:19 AM   #457
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Yeah I had hoped it was something simple like that. I polished the parts to the point they almost looked chrome.. Lol. Definitely no burrs. I was really trying hard to prevent having to wait. It's really not a big deal. I never expect perfection on anything mass produced. It was just really weird, for the life of me I can't see why it's binding. That's why I just bought new.

I hadn't thought about contacting Tower. I'm used to Associated products where your deferred to the cs department in Cali for any and all issues. Oh well, there's a company on eBay called HopMeUp out of North Carolina that I've been getting TD parts from. They ship quick so I should have something by the end of the week.

This will be the fifth Durango kit I've worked with recently and this is the first problem related to quality control so I'd say they're doing pretty good.

From what I'm reading this is a completely different car than the V4 correct?
Yeah if you filed it to remove the burr (file NOT polished, you can still polish a burr and still have the burr) and its still doing it got a bad part for sure.

I would still call tower and see what they can do as I think you got the vehicle new from them. Nothing wrong with them sending you out parts for your time. Even if its not anything soon, they should still have you on file and send when its in stock (thats what happened with my dex410v5 on the shock shafts).

Not sure if you already did this, but make sure you get the better shock shafts all around from the start, or at least the fronts. I would also do the jb weld wing mount mod or get the exotek one. Don't run without doing those things. The parts trees for the wing mount and the lower shock ends are $$$.


Something I am curious on is with AE's option coming for carpet using a slipper and dirt a diff for the center and with durango's basically locking the center diff up with 1 million weight oil on various setups, is there a reason to just not run the center diff locker instead?
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Last edited by Cain; 12-28-2016 at 07:39 AM.
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Old 12-28-2016, 11:34 AM   #458
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So I'm sitting here having a can't leave the house day so I decided to get a head start on my kit and build the shocks. It looks like in the newer kits they are adding the upgraded front shock shafts. This is awesome, except now my OCD insists that I build the rear shocks with the gold TN shafts as well...

Micholix : did yours come the same way?

Cain: I following you, but trust me, they are as smooth as glass. I filed them, inspected under a magnifying glass and THEN polished them almost to chrome. The best that I can come up with is that the cage that holds the bushing is not true. My micrometer says they are the same at the middle section but I have no way to measure how round they are near the end, where they would pivot in the axle cup. The bind is at four points in its rotation, pretty much 0, 90, 180 and 270 with the bushing horizontal. This pretty much tells me that the end section is out of round, slightly egg shaped if you will. If it was off by a couple thousandths when it was cut, it would cause this. Likely just a freak thing. I spent an hour or two on it yesterday and no matter what I did, it would always bind on at least three points. I would correct one and the bind would transfer directly across from it. I really wish there was a simple solution, it would have saved me $25-$30 and time. But it is what it is I guess. When the new parts arrive I'm going to mark all old parts with a paint marker and then put it together using one old part at a time until I pinpoint exactly which part is flawed. That way I can throw it out and keep the rest as spares.
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Old 12-28-2016, 12:20 PM   #459
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Hi Alan, my kit does only include one set of front shock shafts, must be a earlier batch than!?

But, as i have to order some other parts, i will have a look for those golden shock shafts, i have them in my v3, they are as smooth as silk and last for ages...

I'll run mine with saddle packs, as this is what i have and i think, the weight will be good on our 1/8 scale astro outdoor track too.
Also give the two way slipper a try, i have this already and i'm not thinking that the center diff is a need(realy much rotating mass), but to fit this i'll need some longer 84mm center shafts and the center bulkhead to fit a 15mm bearing.

May not been able to hit any track till our outdoor track opens in spring, i couldn't find an winter carpet indoor track.
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Last edited by micholix; 12-29-2016 at 05:51 AM.
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Old 12-28-2016, 03:54 PM   #460
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Lol, whatever money I saved using the clearance price from Tower along with the member coupon, I've since blown on parts. Of course I couldn't just order the rear TN shock shafts. Doesn't make sense to considering shipping. So I added gold shock lower caps, black pre-load adjustment nuts (I hate those plastic ones that come with the kits, Hard on the fingers) plus olive 14mm alloy hexes and alloy black shock caps. I really like Durango shocks, so these should be solid when finished.
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Old 12-28-2016, 05:55 PM   #461
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every so often tower has free shipping for members on any order size. I usually order then. The bit more length of the shafts you can just take out with some limiters in the shocks. On the rear you want to watch that so you don't get a bone to pop out (had that happen on a hit).

Thats cool they are including on newer kits the better shafts, however, they really should fix the issue with the stock ones.

As for the pre-load nuts I agree, not sure why but I had a set that were smooth like butter, but others that would be a real pain to turn. They should just add alloy and be done with it.

If they do continue to soldier on with the durango 1/10 stuff for racing, I hope they look to really push the line. I like the car. With all the issues at durango toyed with getting a B64D at launch but the dex410v5 has been good so far enough that I can take a wait and see approach I am thinking.

I just hope we all can feed off of each other for setups. I want to to really run with one for carpet.
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Old 12-29-2016, 04:05 AM   #462
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Cain, could you please tell me, where the front shocks are braking?

By building my shocks, i found an issue, which may is the problem for that braking!?
Those little step on the top of the shaft, where the tiny washer and the piston sits on, is a little bit to long, so when you screw the piston down on the shaft, the little washer is still loose on the shaft, to prevent this, i put one more washer under the piston...

Built is going on quite nicely, i take my time, cause i'm not in hurry to hit a track!
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Old 12-29-2016, 06:05 AM   #463
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Ok, built is done so fare, till i get my longer 84mm center u-joints and some other bits, i've ordered today!

Car went together nice as usual and without any problems.
One thing i noticed is, the max droop is not equal front to rear, the rear end does have much more droop!
Ok, you can reduce droop at the rear with the droop-screw, but thats not what i want, as i am running on an large 1/8 scale outdoor track, so i'll go with the longer 44mm front shock shafts from the beginning, to give the front end more max droop.
I have to test fit my 410v3 shocks later and have a look, how much more front droop i can get with them...

My guess, for an floating indoor track, carpet or dirt, with less big jumps, you will be fine with the kit shorter 42.5 mm front shafts and by limiting rear droop to equal, so thats, for what i'll keep my shorter kit shocks than, may i'm lucky and can find an indoor track, wich is not more than 200 km away!


Edit: i put the front shocks from my v3, with the longer 44mm shafts on the new car and with them i get exactly the same droop front and rear.

Mounting is front middle hole at the tower and inner hole at the a-arms, rear is middle hole at tower and a-arm.
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Last edited by micholix; 12-29-2016 at 07:26 AM.
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Old 12-29-2016, 07:34 AM   #464
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Cain, could you please tell me, where the front shocks are braking?
The stock front shafts appear to have been overhardened and will break at the threads inside of the shock eyelet. So you then need to buy new shock shaft and a new eyelet which the eyelets from durango only come on a parts tree, 2 eyelets for about $6 or $7 since the rest you don't need.

Luckily the Intech ones are the same and come in a pack of just eyelets, no part tree, for about $4. Buy those.


Quote:
Originally Posted by micholix View Post
Ok, built is done so fare, till i get my longer 84mm center u-joints and some other bits, i've ordered today!

Car went together nice as usual and without any problems.
One thing i noticed is, the max droop is not equal front to rear, the rear end does have much more droop!
Ok, you can reduce droop at the rear with the droop-screw, but thats not what i want, as i am running on an large 1/8 scale outdoor track, so i'll go with the longer 44mm front shock shafts from the beginning, to give the front end more max droop.
I have to test fit my 410v3 shocks later and have a look, how much more front droop i can get with them...

My guess, for an floating indoor track, carpet or dirt, with less big jumps, you will be fine with the kit shorter 42.5 mm front shafts and by limiting rear droop to equal, so thats, for what i'll keep my shorter kit shocks than, may i'm lucky and can find an indoor track, wich is not more than 200 km away!


Edit: i put the front shocks from my v3, with the longer 44mm shafts on the new car and with them i get exactly the same droop front and rear.

Mounting is front middle hole at the tower and inner hole at the a-arms, rear is middle hole at tower and a-arm.
Running the few setups out there that look like they work for carpet I don't recall limiting much droop. I was surprised how well it worked without that. I could pretty much take all my turns at speed with no hit of wanting to roll, and will the max droop it handled the more bumpy parts of the track excellently.

Running 13.5 Spec here but I could see using the same setup for full mod.
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Old 12-29-2016, 07:46 AM   #465
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Thanks Cain, for the fast answer and info!
I do have a lot of eyelets in my spare box, if that happens to me, as this is the fifth TD kit i own, so i got about 10 of the black/older one and about 6-8 of the newer gray one.

About droop, if you don't have the same max droop, the car can make some wired things, getting off of a jump or on bumpy tracks, thats why you want equal droop everytime, uptravel should be equal as well.

I'm looking forward to do the drop/spring test with it, but have to wait till mid of next week, when all my parts coming in!
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