26LikesTLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
08-23-2016, 10:37 AM - Wikipost
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.
Franks response: Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root). Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either. I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'. K.King Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea. 
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05-29-2016, 10:33 AM
#2971
Tech Initiate
I have a question for anyone who has owned the 22 3.0 and the B5m
How does the "wear rate" on this car compare to the Associated ride? I am curious about how often racers replace the plastics and the diffs on the TLR relative to the AE car.
How does the "wear rate" on this car compare to the Associated ride? I am curious about how often racers replace the plastics and the diffs on the TLR relative to the AE car.
05-29-2016, 12:46 PM
#2972
Depends on what you consider wear. The AE slopped out quickly but nothing a shim or two couldn't cure. My B5 had the same plastics on it for a while. I only swapped them out for a big race. The diff lasted a while as well running 17.5. My Losi is the same way without the parts getting sloppy so quick. I've taken my share of crashes/barrel rolls and only my left rear arm shows signs of slop. All other plastics seem to be just fine. The screw holes for the bottom shocks are getting a little loose from me always changing them testing. My diff is killer. I can't remember the last time it was rebuilt and its still as smooth as a fresh build. I probably won't rebuild or replace parts until the Jconcepts race in Chico, Can in July. Both cars in hands only have parts replaced as a precaution and not because they broke.
05-29-2016, 06:56 PM
#2974
Is TLR coming out with a whole kit with the lay down transmission? I've got a 2.0 and am close to uprading to a 3.0 but obviously don't want to shell out $329 for a kit, then pony up another $200 for the lay down.
05-29-2016, 07:53 PM
#2976
Couldn't you just use the laydown kit to convert your 2.0? I'm guessing you could buy the 3.0 pieces needed to finish it for less than $150 (difference between laydown price and new kit price). TLR lists the laydown kit as an option for the 2.0 in their parts lookup.
05-29-2016, 08:32 PM
#2977
I don't think too many parts are interchangeable between the 2.0 and 3.0
05-29-2016, 08:39 PM
#2978
05-29-2016, 10:09 PM
#2979
Tech Adept
Your whole 2.0 front end will bolt on to the 3.0 chassis. All you need to upgrade is the laydown conversion, high roll center blocks, front servo mount, 3.0 rear hinge pins, 3.0 rear arms, 3.0 rear bumper and wing mount, 3.0 rear tower. You can get the 3.0 front arms and hubs if you want
Just converted my stock buggy so i can use either gearbox. Now to buy another mip diff, two sets of cut gears, and anothe topshaft and bearings so i can have them ready to go and swappable.
Just converted my stock buggy so i can use either gearbox. Now to buy another mip diff, two sets of cut gears, and anothe topshaft and bearings so i can have them ready to go and swappable.
05-29-2016, 10:16 PM
#2980
Your whole 2.0 front end will bolt on to the 3.0 chassis. All you need to upgrade is the laydown conversion, high roll center blocks, front servo mount, 3.0 rear hinge pins, 3.0 rear arms, 3.0 rear bumper and wing mount, 3.0 rear tower. You can get the 3.0 front arms and hubs if you want
Just converted my stock buggy so i can use either gearbox. Now to buy another mip diff, two sets of cut gears, and anothe topshaft and bearings so i can have them ready to go and swappable.
Just converted my stock buggy so i can use either gearbox. Now to buy another mip diff, two sets of cut gears, and anothe topshaft and bearings so i can have them ready to go and swappable.
05-30-2016, 04:59 AM
#2982
Tech Adept
No. That is a prototype cf chassis for the 22 3.0 that uses the exotek kickup. I am using it on my 22 3.0
I have a seperate car that has the 22 2.0 front end and, 22 3.0 rear end on the stock aluminum chassis.
I have a newer version of the chassis in the works that has both holes needed for the laydown and regular transmissions and will be avaliable as both cf and aluminum versions. It also will have a second set of holes for the battery strap so that you can run shorty and saddle in both configurations much like the yz2. The only body that will fit is a yz2 body.
I have a seperate car that has the 22 2.0 front end and, 22 3.0 rear end on the stock aluminum chassis.
I have a newer version of the chassis in the works that has both holes needed for the laydown and regular transmissions and will be avaliable as both cf and aluminum versions. It also will have a second set of holes for the battery strap so that you can run shorty and saddle in both configurations much like the yz2. The only body that will fit is a yz2 body.
05-30-2016, 08:24 AM
#2983
Tech Initiate
Goes for me too , this will probably turn me away from Losi and buy something else..
