26LikesTLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
08-23-2016, 10:37 AM - Wikipost
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.
Franks response: Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root). Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either. I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'. K.King Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea. 
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01-14-2016, 11:58 AM
#1591
This is my first attempt at "balancing" a car. I probably wouldn't have bothered, but my car is ~90g under weight and I just wanted to optimize the placement of that weight.
The attached images show how I have balanced the car. The scales show that the rear is ~10g unbalanced. To get it to balance out completely I had to add ~60g of weights next to the motor bell end. This also shows nicely perfect balance by suspending the car in air using two picks, one on the rear wing mount center screw (unique to the 3.0) and one on the center of the front bulk head, just above the bumper.
Not sure if anyone has been this particular about left to right balance, but I thought I would give it a try.
The attached images show how I have balanced the car. The scales show that the rear is ~10g unbalanced. To get it to balance out completely I had to add ~60g of weights next to the motor bell end. This also shows nicely perfect balance by suspending the car in air using two picks, one on the rear wing mount center screw (unique to the 3.0) and one on the center of the front bulk head, just above the bumper.
Not sure if anyone has been this particular about left to right balance, but I thought I would give it a try.
Can you post a pic with all 4 sides of the car on scales?
The pick method does not follow scientific method, so please move away from that.
Also, where is your battery strap, and where is your body? Both affect weight big time.
01-14-2016, 12:33 PM
#1592
This is my first attempt at "balancing" a car. I probably wouldn't have bothered, but my car is ~90g under weight and I just wanted to optimize the placement of that weight.
The attached images show how I have balanced the car. The scales show that the rear is ~10g unbalanced. To get it to balance out completely I had to add ~60g of weights next to the motor bell end. This also shows nicely perfect balance by suspending the car in air using two picks, one on the rear wing mount center screw (unique to the 3.0) and one on the center of the front bulk head, just above the bumper.
Not sure if anyone has been this particular about left to right balance, but I thought I would give it a try.
The attached images show how I have balanced the car. The scales show that the rear is ~10g unbalanced. To get it to balance out completely I had to add ~60g of weights next to the motor bell end. This also shows nicely perfect balance by suspending the car in air using two picks, one on the rear wing mount center screw (unique to the 3.0) and one on the center of the front bulk head, just above the bumper.
Not sure if anyone has been this particular about left to right balance, but I thought I would give it a try.
01-14-2016, 12:44 PM
#1593
Tech Apprentice
Left to Right Balance
I'll be looking into it.
I never thought of it before but the mass of the motor plate, spur-pinion & cover introduce an off-center weight in any buggy.
Looking at PIHGUAM1's balance (post #1493, pg 100) the ESC and wires are on the left side which may help to balance out the car.
Has anyone check the cars balance without electrics in? I will try to see how my car balances like this.
I never thought of it before but the mass of the motor plate, spur-pinion & cover introduce an off-center weight in any buggy.
Looking at PIHGUAM1's balance (post #1493, pg 100) the ESC and wires are on the left side which may help to balance out the car.
Has anyone check the cars balance without electrics in? I will try to see how my car balances like this.
01-14-2016, 01:01 PM
#1594
Tech Apprentice
I'm going out on a limb here and say you have something very wrong happening here.
Can you post a pic with all 4 sides of the car on scales?
The pick method does not follow scientific method, so please move away from that.
Also, where is your battery strap, and where is your body? Both affect weight big time.
Can you post a pic with all 4 sides of the car on scales?
The pick method does not follow scientific method, so please move away from that.
Also, where is your battery strap, and where is your body? Both affect weight big time.
Front = 599.8g
Total = 1407.1g
Three changes from stock that would effect weight:
- MIP Pucks
- Titanium Turnbuckles
- Velcro instead of the battery strap (which now I find out removing the battery strap is not recommended)
Also I am using a x-light shorty (147g) (~50g less than standard shorties)
And the Tekin G2 Stock ESC and GEN3 motor is light as they get (22g + 158g)
Last edited by Matt M.; 03-11-2017 at 03:28 AM.
01-14-2016, 01:22 PM
#1595
This is my first attempt at "balancing" a car. I probably wouldn't have bothered, but my car is ~90g under weight and I just wanted to optimize the placement of that weight.
The attached images show how I have balanced the car. The scales show that the rear is ~10g unbalanced. To get it to balance out completely I had to add ~60g of weights next to the motor bell end. This also shows nicely perfect balance by suspending the car in air using two picks, one on the rear wing mount center screw (unique to the 3.0) and one on the center of the front bulk head, just above the bumper.
Not sure if anyone has been this particular about left to right balance, but I thought I would give it a try.
The attached images show how I have balanced the car. The scales show that the rear is ~10g unbalanced. To get it to balance out completely I had to add ~60g of weights next to the motor bell end. This also shows nicely perfect balance by suspending the car in air using two picks, one on the rear wing mount center screw (unique to the 3.0) and one on the center of the front bulk head, just above the bumper.
Not sure if anyone has been this particular about left to right balance, but I thought I would give it a try.
01-14-2016, 01:52 PM
#1596
Unfortunately, I only have two scales, so I guess I should get two more to do this correctly.
Rear = 807.3g
Front = 599.8g
Total = 1407.1g
Three changes from stock that would effect weight:
- MIP Pucks
- Titanium Turnbuckles
- Velcro instead of the battery strap (which now I find out removing the battery strap is not recommended)
Also I am using a x-light shorty (147g) (~50g less than standard shorties)
And the Tekin G2 Stock ESC and GEN3 motor is light as they get (22g + 158g)
Rear = 807.3g
Front = 599.8g
Total = 1407.1g
Three changes from stock that would effect weight:
- MIP Pucks
- Titanium Turnbuckles
- Velcro instead of the battery strap (which now I find out removing the battery strap is not recommended)
Also I am using a x-light shorty (147g) (~50g less than standard shorties)
And the Tekin G2 Stock ESC and GEN3 motor is light as they get (22g + 158g)
So, I'd recommend popping in a normal shorty or putting all the stock stuff back on. Also, have you calibrated your scales? Normally those little ones can be be off several grams and need to be calibrated.
01-14-2016, 02:22 PM
#1597
i bought these tires and they came in today.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...61574?v=274735
the foams inside seem to wide and it it pushing the tire walls out. am i supposed to cut the foam to get it to fit better? If not, how do i get it so they are completely round. They currently done lay flat so if i were to glue them, they would wobble
any help is appreciated
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...61574?v=274735
the foams inside seem to wide and it it pushing the tire walls out. am i supposed to cut the foam to get it to fit better? If not, how do i get it so they are completely round. They currently done lay flat so if i were to glue them, they would wobble
any help is appreciated
01-14-2016, 02:50 PM
#1598
01-14-2016, 02:58 PM
#1599
i bought these tires and they came in today.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...61574?v=274735
the foams inside seem to wide and it it pushing the tire walls out. am i supposed to cut the foam to get it to fit better? If not, how do i get it so they are completely round. They currently done lay flat so if i were to glue them, they would wobble
any help is appreciated
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...61574?v=274735
the foams inside seem to wide and it it pushing the tire walls out. am i supposed to cut the foam to get it to fit better? If not, how do i get it so they are completely round. They currently done lay flat so if i were to glue them, they would wobble
any help is appreciated
01-14-2016, 03:01 PM
#1600
i bought these tires and they came in today.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...61574?v=274735
the foams inside seem to wide and it it pushing the tire walls out. am i supposed to cut the foam to get it to fit better? If not, how do i get it so they are completely round. They currently done lay flat so if i were to glue them, they would wobble
any help is appreciated
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...61574?v=274735
the foams inside seem to wide and it it pushing the tire walls out. am i supposed to cut the foam to get it to fit better? If not, how do i get it so they are completely round. They currently done lay flat so if i were to glue them, they would wobble
any help is appreciated
01-14-2016, 03:01 PM
#1601
Start reading:
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/ar...orner-weights/
01-14-2016, 03:03 PM
#1602
i bought these tires and they came in today.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...61574?v=274735
the foams inside seem to wide and it it pushing the tire walls out. am i supposed to cut the foam to get it to fit better? If not, how do i get it so they are completely round. They currently done lay flat so if i were to glue them, they would wobble
any help is appreciated
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...61574?v=274735
the foams inside seem to wide and it it pushing the tire walls out. am i supposed to cut the foam to get it to fit better? If not, how do i get it so they are completely round. They currently done lay flat so if i were to glue them, they would wobble
any help is appreciated
01-14-2016, 03:05 PM
#1603
i bought these tires and they came in today.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...61574?v=274735
the foams inside seem to wide and it it pushing the tire walls out. am i supposed to cut the foam to get it to fit better? If not, how do i get it so they are completely round. They currently done lay flat so if i were to glue them, they would wobble
any help is appreciated
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...61574?v=274735
the foams inside seem to wide and it it pushing the tire walls out. am i supposed to cut the foam to get it to fit better? If not, how do i get it so they are completely round. They currently done lay flat so if i were to glue them, they would wobble
any help is appreciated
01-14-2016, 06:00 PM
#1604
Frank
I question the battery brace. In its stock form with my batteries it takes a fair amount of pressure to get it to the point where the clips can be installed. So much so that when you place steel ruler against the chassis you can noticeably see daylight under the back part of the chassis. This is the reason i placed 1mm spacers under the waterfall and went to a thumb screw type of hold down and this completely solved the chassis flex i was seeing. I understand what you are referring to but you definitely dont want to bow your chassis from the start. All lipos are a bit different so i can understand the need to make adjustments like i had to. Be nice to see an upgrade to an adjustable battery hold down in the future. I hate the battery taping setup.
I question the battery brace. In its stock form with my batteries it takes a fair amount of pressure to get it to the point where the clips can be installed. So much so that when you place steel ruler against the chassis you can noticeably see daylight under the back part of the chassis. This is the reason i placed 1mm spacers under the waterfall and went to a thumb screw type of hold down and this completely solved the chassis flex i was seeing. I understand what you are referring to but you definitely dont want to bow your chassis from the start. All lipos are a bit different so i can understand the need to make adjustments like i had to. Be nice to see an upgrade to an adjustable battery hold down in the future. I hate the battery taping setup.
01-14-2016, 06:45 PM
#1605
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
I just watched Jason Snyders review of the 3.0 and he claims that the rear camber block is a bit weak....has anyone found the same issue?...and if so is there a replacement part. I haven't had the privilege to run mine yet as its a little snowy here in the great white north.