TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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#257
Tech Adept
Questions from across the pond!
For those who have run this car already on med-low grip surfaces are you using tyre additives at all as in the UK on wet astro obviously this is not an option for us and I'm after some idea of traction as everyone says it is good but if using additive then it skews the opinion a little for me
Also is there any major changes for higher grip astro compared to clay racing setup that I assume the kit setup is aimed at ( maybe Frank can answer this one?)
at the moment it's a toss up between this or the xray xb2 as for me a conventuals low rider car is to hard to drive on outdoor astro tracks (I don't race indoor even in winter) and I need a more conventional mid car for next season
For those who have run this car already on med-low grip surfaces are you using tyre additives at all as in the UK on wet astro obviously this is not an option for us and I'm after some idea of traction as everyone says it is good but if using additive then it skews the opinion a little for me
Also is there any major changes for higher grip astro compared to clay racing setup that I assume the kit setup is aimed at ( maybe Frank can answer this one?)
at the moment it's a toss up between this or the xray xb2 as for me a conventuals low rider car is to hard to drive on outdoor astro tracks (I don't race indoor even in winter) and I need a more conventional mid car for next season
Very interesting as I struggle a bit consistency wise with the YZ2 on astro (but it works really well on carpet).
You could use some additive on wet astro, it works great and minipins silver too, more grip, more forward drive.
This 3.0 looks good for sure, they did a great job on a lot of aspects, I really like it.
#259
Tech Regular
iTrader: (20)
I started this build last night, overall I'm really happy with the car. The quality is good, the pricing is great and you get a hell of a lot of car for your money.
A couple of pain points I've found though;
- Bell crank bearings, the sit a fraction of a mm above the bell crank arms so when you fasten down the front bulkhead the bearings bind. You need to back them off to get free play in the bearing which means the screw and bulk head are not secure.
- The mud gaurds, non of the holes line up. So you need to jig and shimmy fasten and unfasten to get them to a point where they line up.
Otherwise good car, but the bell crank bearing issue is a biggy.
A couple of pain points I've found though;
- Bell crank bearings, the sit a fraction of a mm above the bell crank arms so when you fasten down the front bulkhead the bearings bind. You need to back them off to get free play in the bearing which means the screw and bulk head are not secure.
- The mud gaurds, non of the holes line up. So you need to jig and shimmy fasten and unfasten to get them to a point where they line up.
Otherwise good car, but the bell crank bearing issue is a biggy.
#260
If you're talking about the top bearings, IIRC that is normal and they should sit slightly above with the thin washers put on top. The 2.0 cars were like this, but you have to make sure the shims are centered correctly and aren't bent. It's really easy for the shim to be misaligned, probably the only thing that's annoying about building the 22 series.
#261
How are people getting this car already? Team drivers? It doesn't release until the beginning of December.
#262
If you're talking about the top bearings, IIRC that is normal and they should sit slightly above with the thin washers put on top. The 2.0 cars were like this, but you have to make sure the shims are centered correctly and aren't bent. It's really easy for the shim to be misaligned, probably the only thing that's annoying about building the 22 series.
Then I actually mounted it on the car and found it had hardened up significantly; I had to back the screws off again to get it to at least be loose in the middle of the range. It'd still get stuck (not drop back due to gravity when rotating the car) at the ends of the range but...
Is the above something that I can safely leave to wear in or would it be a good idea to open it up again? I actually bought a separate spare bellcrank kit as at some point I thought I had messed it up with errant locktite or something.
#264
The car looks great! I preordered mine.
#265
I don't think you need to crank down the screws that much, you don't want any steering binding. I had a bent chassis once, and it made it so that the bulkhead couldn't be tightened all the way. I'd probably shim it a little if it's not lining up correctly.
#266
Thanks, I did leave the top screws fairly loose. I will take the servo ball cup off after the first few runs and see what it feels like then, if still somewhat sticky in the end redo them (with the spare kit).
#267
Tech Apprentice
Worlds tranny
Will the tranny case you ran at the worlds be availible as an option to the car? It would be great for winter carpet racing;-)
#268
What is the part number for the 70T spur? Will the avid or Schelle slipper system fit the 3.0?
#270
Tech Regular
iTrader: (20)
Car builds really well, except those bearings before mentioned. There are a few other places I need to play around with bind to free it up. If I sit it next to my YZ2 it looks like a bigger bulkier car but not heavier. Just looks like it can handle outdoor a lot better
Last edited by Matt M.; 03-11-2017 at 03:28 AM.