26LikesTLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
08-23-2016, 10:37 AM - Wikipost
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.
Franks response: Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root). Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either. I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'. K.King Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea. 
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01-02-2016, 05:22 AM
#1351
Tech Rookie
Kit Setup
I have a question about the kit setup. If you look at section E-6 in the manual, it says to put the lower shock mount on the middle hole on the arm, however the setup sheet on page 57 says to put it on the inside hole? Which one is correct?
01-02-2016, 05:42 AM
#1352
Thanks, I've seen that tip suggested before but forgot about it. So you punch through from the inside? Doesn't distort the ball cup or cause any binding issues? That definitely sounds like the easiest method.
01-02-2016, 05:43 AM
#1353
Setup sheet is correct. They had to get the assembly artwork finished long before they were done tweaking the setup.
01-02-2016, 05:48 AM
#1354
Tech Rookie
01-02-2016, 06:11 AM
#1355
The setup sheet also says red front springs (kit is silver).
Try both positions, many are settling on the middle hole in the rear arm.
Try both positions, many are settling on the middle hole in the rear arm.
01-02-2016, 06:19 AM
#1356
Oops. I must have read wrong somewhere in this thread... I thought everyone had been deferring to the setup sheet. At least that's what I'm doing as I'm starting my build.
01-02-2016, 06:38 AM
#1358
Tech Apprentice
I decided not to push a hole through the plastic with my hole punch. I drilled a hole from the inside of the cup outward. At least with a drill bit the plastic is cut and not stressed from the hole punch.
01-02-2016, 08:28 AM
#1359
I've read some posts that claim some drivers have felt the buggy pushed too much. I'm about to start building mine tonight. Assuming we're running the kit setup, would going with the long VLA front end and running the battery front to back instead of sideways make the buggy more aggressive in tighter turns? 2 tracks I run on are very tight so I want to have an aggressive turn in. I'm coming off driving a 2.0 rear motor so I'm hoping for better steering than I've had up till this point.
01-02-2016, 11:22 AM
#1362
Even more puzzling is that on step E-5 of the manual the upper illustration calls out the inside hole on the front arm (the dotted line points there) but then the lower illustration of the final assembly with the shock installed shows the middle hole in use? 
01-02-2016, 01:06 PM
#1364
Run it with the silvers, reds are softer, which I doubt you'd need.
01-02-2016, 01:06 PM
#1365
So the setups page on the TLR site doesn't have a "kit setup" sheet. Is the true kit setup then building according to all of the steps... so I can correct the kit setup sheet in the back of the manual by updating it according to the build?
Slowly working through the build between playing with the kids today. I've never put holes in my ball cups before, but I decided to use a 3 mm brad point bit and drill them. Looks good, but I'll see if it creates a durability issue or not. Worst case I'll learn something and maybe have to buy some new ball cups, which would create a perfect opportunity for getting some Ti turnbuckles.