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Old 08-23-2016, 10:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 12-28-2015, 05:23 PM   #1261
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This has never once happened to me in 3 years of owning Durango cars, nor anybody else I've known running Durango cars. I'd rather have the screw than the e-clips.

I'm not trying to make this into an argument about which car is are better. It's just a feature I really liked that I am disappointed to not see on the 22, especially given how frustrating e-clips are.
I had the nut back off my shock shaft on my 410v4. So it can happen...
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Old 12-28-2015, 05:39 PM   #1262
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I have 4 race days on my car now and still haven't changed the setup since day 1 when I moved the rear ball stud up 1mm. It is just awesome. Even running the oil out of the box in all 4 corners it just does what I want it to. I can slide into a corner and power out of it. I haven't even tried different tires on it yet. Lol I've ran the same set every time. IMHO this ride is awesome.
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Old 12-28-2015, 05:50 PM   #1263
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Originally Posted by Lenman73 View Post
I have 4 race days on my car now and still haven't changed the setup since day 1 when I moved the rear ball stud up 1mm. It is just awesome. Even running the oil out of the box in all 4 corners it just does what I want it to. I can slide into a corner and power out of it. I haven't even tried different tires on it yet. Lol I've ran the same set every time. IMHO this ride is awesome.
The stock setup isn't too bad but I think the oil is too thick for the 1.5 pistons in the front. I drop the car from a few inches and the rear sinks down a bit then rebounds to ride height but the front doesn't move at all. I'll probably drill the pistons to 1.7 or go down on oil a bit. Other than that the car is just ok in my oppinion.

This post isn't directed at you but since you commented on the shock oil.
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Old 12-28-2015, 06:06 PM   #1264
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I'm running 32.5 in the front with stock pistons, inside hole on arm though.
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Old 12-28-2015, 06:34 PM   #1265
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The setup I mentioned has only been used on 1 track. When I go to another I may have to tweak it some more but for the layout we had it was money. They are putting in a new layout as I type this so my setup may change with it.
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Old 12-28-2015, 06:55 PM   #1266
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Ok thanks. Couldn't find the info in the manual or on here
Yeah that was an oversight on their part. I did include it in my Build and Drive review which can be found here.
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Old 12-28-2015, 06:56 PM   #1267
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Just got my car to the roller stage tonight. Went together pretty well. I did end up tapping each hole, this is just something that i do on every car I build.

The only trouble I had was installing the rear arms, I had to loosen the screws that hold the rear shock tower in place so I could get the front arm block installed.

Looking forward to running the car soon!
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Old 12-28-2015, 07:15 PM   #1268
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See some are using the kyosho rb6 gold springs. Anyone know the spring rate for them?
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Old 12-28-2015, 07:36 PM   #1269
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[QUOTE=tony montana;14324307]See some are using the kyosho rb6 gold springs. Anyone know the spring rate for them?[/QUOTE

Front golds are 3.87
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Old 12-28-2015, 09:02 PM   #1270
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I know that the Kyosho springs are the rb6 but what is the part numbers for the springs in mayfields setup of Kyosho white front and Kyosho gold tears?
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Old 12-28-2015, 09:07 PM   #1271
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I know that the Kyosho springs are the rb6 but what is the part numbers for the springs in mayfields setup of Kyosho white front and Kyosho gold tears?
XGS002 - front, XGS013 - rear
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Old 12-28-2015, 10:05 PM   #1272
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I just ordered my car can't wait to get it as far as electronics go I'm looking at the hobbywing V2.1 esc what are your thoughts on the speed control
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Old 12-28-2015, 10:13 PM   #1273
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Ran this car for the first time today and was very impressed. So much better and more predictable than my B5M. Im running Dustin Evans setup from the Horizon Shootout and its a pretty good setup. What is the difference from the kit springs compared to the KYO that some guys are running? Softer, Stiffer?
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Old 12-28-2015, 10:52 PM   #1274
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KYO golds are pretty stiff... the rate is 3.87 on the fronts and yes its stiffer than the supplied kit springs, although not far off. The silver kit front springs are fine but if you run indoors you will most likely enjoy a stiffer rear spring like a pink LF
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Old 12-28-2015, 11:35 PM   #1275
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KYO golds are pretty stiff... the rate is 3.87 on the fronts and yes its stiffer than the supplied kit springs, although not far off. The silver kit front springs are fine but if you run indoors you will most likely enjoy a stiffer rear spring like a pink LF
Mine had LF yellows
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