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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 12-27-2015, 11:50 PM   #1216
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I just built my stock buggy. tekin rs pro, savox short servo, savox 17.5, rx-471receiver and eco power lipo 208g. Weighed it no wing 1466g proline electrons front and rear. Also running MIP pucks.
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Old 12-28-2015, 02:25 AM   #1217
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Especially when we are talking about stock motor times on 15 min. gear the shi% out of it for about the 8 min mark. there aren't very many stock mains over that time lot. if you aren't racing that's a different story.
It's was a simple question , what is the operating range of a tekin gen3 , there a reason I don't race and it's because of people like yourself , who have lost the reason people take up a hobby , which is to have fun . If your not going to answer the question then keep your stupid comments to yourself , for the most part there are plenty of great people in the hobby and thats why I continue , I get asked all the time why I don't race and I simply reply it not my thing but I can run with guys running mod , I'd rather get taken out by a kid that just got a new rc car then stand on a drivers stand next to someone like yourself , so here's some advice to you my friend , try to laugh a little next time you go to the track you'll have a much better day then just being focused on what main and place your in
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Old 12-28-2015, 02:36 AM   #1218
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I don't think there was any malice intended in your quoted post MDawson; whilst the answer / info might not have been what you wanted, it was informative with a disclaimer that if going for longer sessions then the advice provided would not apply (ie would require different gearing). So, no need for harsh words?

Just looking, you may already have found the warning not to exceed 180f?

Also, perhaps the question will get different responses in the Gen3 thread.

Last edited by Jorgen; 12-28-2015 at 02:55 AM.
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Old 12-28-2015, 07:09 AM   #1219
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Just finished this kit last night. I want to run 17.5 and this is my first time. What do I need to do to run let's say a 70 spur since the hds system does not go down that far. Do you guys run the exotek direct drive spurs or the older slipper setups?
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Old 12-28-2015, 07:29 AM   #1220
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Is it just spinning out or is it like hooking? I run on high bite damp clay with slicks and mine had so much steering I would turn in the front suspension would bottom out and spin the car. I put some kyosho golds that I use to run on my 2.0 and it was great. You could also try the Chris Wheeler setup it lengthens the front camber links and adds stiffer front springs. I don't know if this is what your problem is just throwing out an idea.
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The shocks will probably need rebled , I built mine with no rebound and after practice and 1 round the shocks had 100% rebound. Others have had this happen too so definitely check shocks.
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A set up suggestion you can try is to lengthen the front camber link (inside hole on camber block #1). I ran this on my car last night for the main, so much easier to drive for me. It pushed a little and was really smooth. Had my fastest lap and overall. Much more consistent. Thanks to my team mate for the suggestion

I am a nitro 1/8th scale driver, so I'm used to a heavier, more planted 4wd car. Give it a try. Easy to change.
Hey guys, just an update. We went to a "big" race this weekend and loosened the diffs and I checked my shocks and yes they had magically, somehow, acquired 100% rebound, but guess what? Fixed all that and wa la, traction again! My son was able to Q2 but an early mistake took him outta contention. I was really sick but went anyway and finished like 16th outta 20. Just couldn't drive for nothing but one positive was for me that in the B main I drove all 6 minutes without one mistake so I was somewhat satisfied with that. This was our first "real" off road race in about a year (had to take off for financial reasons) so the finishes, I guess, were to be expected. We to, come from 1/8th scale and carpet where traction is more abundant. I was thinking about lengthening the front camber length because I know the stock location is a more reactive position.
Guys, thanks again for all of your input and help. It is much appreciated! Now to get to feeling better and get back to the track and get some more laps in!
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Old 12-28-2015, 07:44 AM   #1221
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Originally Posted by Chad_R40 View Post
Just finished this kit last night. I want to run 17.5 and this is my first time. What do I need to do to run let's say a 70 spur since the hds system does not go down that far. Do you guys run the exotek direct drive spurs or the older slipper setups?
All you need are a set of the older slipper pads. The stock outer plates will still still work.
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Old 12-28-2015, 08:22 AM   #1222
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drove the car for first time over weekend. Started with Mayfield setup except pistons. Went to 1.6 fronts with gold kyosho and 1.6 gold rear, went to a hole on rear camber and moved hubs all they way forward. Car felt great after that. We run on md traction slicks track and liked the way the car drove.
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Old 12-28-2015, 08:46 AM   #1223
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I don't think you can fault someone from questioning the dog bones as NO other car has them that close to hanging out of the outdrives. Yes the car performs well but many of us all questioned the length of the bones Let's cut the guy a little slack
It's been a double edge sword the whole time. BTW, I installed my spacer after my first race
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Old 12-28-2015, 09:00 AM   #1224
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I don't think you can fault someone from questioning the dog bones as NO other car has them that close to hanging out of the outdrives. Yes the car performs well but many of us all questioned the length of the bones Let's cut the guy a little slack
The dex210v1 did. It was never known for having dogbone issues.

I'm with RBM. I think people are overreacting a bit. I built mine without the spacer because I don't think it's going to be an issue.
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Old 12-28-2015, 09:14 AM   #1225
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I started with the axle spacer installed, One of the local racers told me that it takes traction away and I took it out, Ran rest of day without it and didn't have an issue. Im still trying to figure out if it adds traction or takes it away. I couldn't tell a difference.
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Old 12-28-2015, 09:17 AM   #1226
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The spacer is included; so if it worries you, put it in. I have it installed and I don't have any rear grip problems... but man I need some more steering than what the stock setup has!
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Old 12-28-2015, 09:18 AM   #1227
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I started with the axle spacer installed, One of the local racers told me that it takes traction away and I took it out, Ran rest of day without it and didn't have an issue. Im still trying to figure out if it adds traction or takes it away. I couldn't tell a difference.
So, taking out the spacer will add traction or side bite to the rear. If you run without it and a stroke of 29mm or less and 1 degree of neg camber or more, you will be great. If you go with more stroke or want to run less camber, you may want to use the shim.
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Old 12-28-2015, 09:55 AM   #1228
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So, taking out the spacer will add traction or side bite to the rear. If you run without it and a stroke of 29mm or less and 1 degree of neg camber or more, you will be great. If you go with more stroke or want to run less camber, you may want to use the shim.
not sure, but can confirm that running 29mm stroke with 1 deg of camber and no issues, had a few crashes and was fine.
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Old 12-28-2015, 10:58 AM   #1229
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I started with the axle spacer installed, One of the local racers told me that it takes traction away and I took it out, Ran rest of day without it and didn't have an issue. Im still trying to figure out if it adds traction or takes it away. I couldn't tell a difference.
Someone asked what the spacer does for handling on page 48

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It should land a little better, and have more forward bite. We usually add/remove it based on driving style, and not so much track to track. Jake Thayer's posted setup has them in because he prefers the way they drive. I run without them, kit limiting and have not ever popped the bone out.
Ok, so we've got some reports that the spacer takes away traction, but Frank says it gives more. It also seems most people can't tell a difference. The reason why the drama keeps coming back is because of mixed reports like this. It also doesn't help that the manual mentions nothing about what that spacer is for/does even though it is in the "tuning" bag.

Not trying to be an a-hole, but trying to clear things up on the manual for a better build experience. Small stuff like this goes a long way
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Old 12-28-2015, 11:12 AM   #1230
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Someone asked what the spacer does for handling on page 48



Ok, so we've got some reports that the spacer takes away traction, but Frank says it gives more. It also seems most people can't tell a difference. The reason why the drama keeps coming back is because of mixed reports like this. It also doesn't help that the manual mentions nothing about what that spacer is for/does even though it is in the "tuning" bag.

Not trying to be an a-hole, but trying to clear things up on the manual for a better build experience. Small stuff like this goes a long way
agree on this post, some say it add, some say it takes away. just need a clarification.
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