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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 12-14-2015, 10:27 PM   #1021
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Well finished my build got the car last Friday, finished electronics install and I have an issue! Everything works except getting cogging from the motor. Brand new esc, trinity D4 certified 17.5 motor, Savox 1257 servo, spektrum receiver. Tried two different sensor wires and recal and no Bueno.

On another note my car went together with no issues at all. No stripped screws, yes I used a power driver but did final tightening by hand. now waiting for my 2.4 wheels to come in since I bought slicks, because my local track that is the hot tire setup or worn down webs. Which I have no 2.0 wheels left after letting them go with my old car. All that's left is to paint.
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Old 12-15-2015, 04:45 AM   #1022
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@Trakjunky try a new sensor wire, or re calibrate your speed control.
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Old 12-15-2015, 06:07 AM   #1023
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Originally Posted by Trakjunky View Post
Well finished my build got the car last Friday, finished electronics install and I have an issue! Everything works except getting cogging from the motor. Brand new esc, trinity D4 certified 17.5 motor, Savox 1257 servo, spektrum receiver. Tried two different sensor wires and recal and no Bueno.

On another note my car went together with no issues at all. No stripped screws, yes I used a power driver but did final tightening by hand. now waiting for my 2.4 wheels to come in since I bought slicks, because my local track that is the hot tire setup or worn down webs. Which I have no 2.0 wheels left after letting them go with my old car. All that's left is to paint.
Double check that you have it wired properly A-A, B-B, C-C. I've seen this more than once!
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Old 12-15-2015, 10:01 AM   #1024
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Well, just joined the TLR gang. Will be my first Losi car. (unless the twin hammers count as one) The last 2wd 1/10 was the original RC10 stealth kit
Hope to get it in a couple of days and start the build. All I got was the alum servo arm for now.

Our off-road program mainly consists of 1/8 and SC, but maybe a couple 1/10 buggies. Hope to spark more interest in that class with the 3.0.
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Old 12-15-2015, 10:41 AM   #1025
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@Trakjunky try a new sensor wire, or re calibrate your speed control.
Tried 2 different wires same problem. Recal'd 3'times. Going to check a different motor and another wire to see.
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Old 12-15-2015, 10:43 AM   #1026
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Double check that you have it wired properly A-A, B-B, C-C. I've seen this more than once!
I will check. The D4 does not have the A-B-C labled so i wired it the same as my revtech on another car which is a trinity as well so I would assume they wore up the same. It moves forward like it's supposed to, if I had reversed polarity it should go backwards.
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Old 12-15-2015, 11:14 AM   #1027
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Does anyone know if the 3.0 rear pivot blocks will bolt on the 2.0 chassis?
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Old 12-15-2015, 11:20 AM   #1028
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I will check. The D4 does not have the A-B-C labled so i wired it the same as my revtech on another car which is a trinity as well so I would assume they wore up the same. It moves forward like it's supposed to, if I had reversed polarity it should go backwards.
The D4 is labeled it is kind of hidden under the solder tabs.. I believe from left to right it is A B C if you are looking at the timing end.
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Old 12-15-2015, 02:12 PM   #1029
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Does anyone have the part numbers to the Kyosho Springs the team guys have been running?
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Old 12-15-2015, 02:17 PM   #1030
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Does anyone know if the 3.0 rear pivot blocks will bolt on the 2.0 chassis?
I would say no. The front one actually keys into the chassis to keep it aligned, and the back of the chassis has a kick up on it so the back will at least 1-2mm high. Even if you can find a way to drill,cut and glue one onto a 22 chassis it wouldn't be good.

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Old 12-15-2015, 02:26 PM   #1031
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The D4 is labeled it is kind of hidden under the solder tabs.. I believe from left to right it is A B C if you are looking at the timing end.
I'll check but if that's the case which is pretty standard then it's wired correctly.

I may have pinched a motor lead wire too. Going to do some swapping of parts and see what happens.
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Old 12-15-2015, 02:44 PM   #1032
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I would say no. The front one actually keys into the chassis to keep it aligned, and the back of the chassis has a kick up on it so the back will at least 1-2mm high. Even if you can find a way to drill,cut and glue one onto a 22 chassis it wouldn't be good.

Thanks for the info.
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Old 12-15-2015, 03:00 PM   #1033
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Does anyone have the part numbers to the Kyosho Springs the team guys have been running?
The fronts springs are xgs00x where x is the final number depending on which one you want. So the gold is xgs003.

The rear springs are XGS01X where x is the final number depending on which one you want.

Hope that made sense.
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Old 12-15-2015, 03:08 PM   #1034
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Originally Posted by Trakjunky View Post
I will check. The D4 does not have the A-B-C labled so i wired it the same as my revtech on another car which is a trinity as well so I would assume they wore up the same. It moves forward like it's supposed to, if I had reversed polarity it should go backwards.
Swap A and C and see what happens
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Old 12-15-2015, 03:21 PM   #1035
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Might get one.. anyone running it on stock 17.5? Most I see at my track are mods and looks awsome..
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