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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 12-10-2015, 08:34 AM   #901
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So though there is play without the spacer, it's nothing to worry about.
There should be little to no play with or without the spacer. Without the spacer the hex seats further onto the axle and takes up the additional space.
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Old 12-10-2015, 09:11 AM   #902
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
I'm putting together a 4 gear trans, just wanted to know if the alum idler gear is a must?
I have never blown a plastic idler on a buggy or seen any one else either. Now on my SC truck I do run alum idler gears, but not needed for 2wd buggy In my opinion.
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Old 12-10-2015, 09:45 AM   #903
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Has anyone else found that the kit yellow rear springs are super soft? I have since changed them out for pinks LF and the car is great. But the difference in stiffness going from yellow to pink is drastic when you squeeze them in your hand but pink is only 1 step stiffer if my chart is correct?
Are you sure you have LF pinks with LF yellows. The LF springs are all very tightly grouped as far as spring rate. The difference between LF yellow and Std Pink would be much more noticeable.

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Originally Posted by mr3d93 View Post
In regards to the “optional” rear axle spacer without them I noticed a great amount of play with the axle inside the hub carrier. I thought to myself that this didn’t seem right because on my 2.0 there was no play whatsoever. When I looked back through my 2.0 manual I noticed that it says to put these spacers in automatically. I then put the spacers in and found that it removed the play and made everything like it was on my 2.0.
So short and sweet I guess the question(s) I pose to Mr. Root is: Why aren’t we instructed to put these spacers in off the bat? Why is it an “option”? And what is the benefit of having it either way?
I don’t mean to come on harsh, especially on my first post ever.
Thanks!

As others have already stated Frank updated the hex on the 3.0 so you don't need the spacer. The result tough is the cross pin goes further into the hex and this will allow some play in and out until you tighten down the tire and this will pull the axle into the hex and seat everything in the right place and no play. With all that being said this is why my first and only upgrade to this point on the 3.0 is clamping hexes.
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Last edited by Casper; 12-10-2015 at 12:22 PM.
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Old 12-10-2015, 09:47 AM   #904
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Any idea on 13.5 gearing?
I'd start with a 70/31 or 70/30
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Old 12-10-2015, 10:28 AM   #905
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Just finished building mine and man was it cake! The only things I have to say from a critique point of view are the following:
1. The screws that holt the tranny case together were tight in the case and ended up stripping one.
2. I love the front caster assembly.
3. I wish 22 front wheels fit!!!!!!!!

also question... do part# TLR2059 (front camber block) and TLR334014 (rear hubs) fit from the 2.0 buggy?
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Old 12-10-2015, 10:30 AM   #906
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Just finished building mine and man was it cake! The only things I have to say from a critique point of view are the following:
1. The screws that holt the tranny case together were tight in the case and ended up stripping one.
2. I love the front caster assembly.
3. I wish 22 front wheels fit!!!!!!!!

also question... do part# TLR2059 (front camber block) and TLR334014 (rear hubs) fit from the 2.0 buggy?

those parts do fit, i transfered mine from the 2.0 to the 3.0
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Old 12-10-2015, 10:39 AM   #907
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picture is dark, but they look sweet on it
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Old 12-10-2015, 10:45 AM   #908
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
I'm putting together a 4 gear trans, just wanted to know if the alum idler gear is a must?
I wouldn't say it is a must.

Personally, I don't use it. If I loose a plastic idler gear, I only strip the idler gear. Every time I used aluminum idler gear and something happened in my trany, I destroyed the top shaft gear - metal on metal.
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Old 12-10-2015, 10:48 AM   #909
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Originally Posted by carbons2k View Post
... I wish 22 front wheels fit!!!!!!!!
Get this and they will - http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...lr1068/p193788
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Old 12-10-2015, 12:19 PM   #910
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"As others have already stated Frank updated the hex on the 3.0 so you don't need the spacer. The result tough is the cross pin goes further into the hex and this will allow some play in and out until you tighten down the tire and this will pull the axle into the hex and seat everything in the right place and no play. With all that being said this is why my first and only upgrade to this point on the 3.0 is clamping hexes."

(Haven't figured out quoting yet)

I kinda get what you're saying. I haven't tried with the supplied plastic ones I've been using the aluminium clamping ones from my 2.0. I'm guessing you'll need to use the washer to use the clamping ones.
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Old 12-10-2015, 12:38 PM   #911
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picture is dark, but they look sweet on it
You've got her looking pretty sweet so far Casey!
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Old 12-10-2015, 12:52 PM   #912
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I wouldn't say it is a must.

Personally, I don't use it. If I loose a plastic idler gear, I only strip the idler gear. Every time I used aluminum idler gear and something happened in my trany, I destroyed the top shaft gear - metal on metal.
I figured you'd want to run the alloy idler between the 1st idler and diff gear so that no two gears would be running against another gear of like material (as gave you problems running alloy/alloy with the top-shaft). I thought this was why the idler was made of a different plastic from the diff gear on a 3-gear tranny..
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Old 12-10-2015, 01:03 PM   #913
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Default Aluminum parts change driving?

I to am swapping over my aluminum 2.0 parts to my 3.0. I feel they are heavier but my driving style requires them (crash alot, ha ha). Does anyone feel the aluminum parts change the way the car handles or jumps with the extra weight?
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Old 12-10-2015, 01:07 PM   #914
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Old 12-10-2015, 01:50 PM   #915
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Originally Posted by rcus3r View Post
I wouldn't say it is a must.

Personally, I don't use it. If I loose a plastic idler gear, I only strip the idler gear. Every time I used aluminum idler gear and something happened in my trany, I destroyed the top shaft gear - metal on metal.
did you run it metal - metal - plastic - plastic?
You should run it metal (top shaft)- plastic (idler gear) - metal (idler gear) - plastic (diff).

that's what I was told anyway so can't say I'm 100% right however I've never had an issue in a 4 gear tranny running it that way.
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