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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 12-09-2015, 07:02 PM   #886
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I plan to run 17.5 or 13.5 blinky, and the manual suggests a 70T spur. But it seems TLR does not make a 70T spur for the HDS slipper. What parts do I need to use the 70T spur? Thanks
Do yourself the favor and buy the Schelle or Avid slipper assembly and a 69 tooth spur gear. With this setup you will end up with three different spur gears, depends on which kit you buy but neither come with the 69 from memory, this will offer a wide range of stock and mod options for gear ratios. This will cost you a tad more than just buying a compatible spur but I find it to be about the best slipper I have ever used. If you are going locked, than just go with what David suggested.

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It's the cheaper route, but I think I will be crucified for that second part
No worse than me using a Reedy ESC in my TLR buggy, got a couple laughs for that one at the track.

Last edited by Fasttrak; 12-09-2015 at 07:22 PM.
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Old 12-09-2015, 07:09 PM   #887
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I'm building a 3.0 and purchased a set of aluminum rear hubs..does anyone have recommendations as to what camber hole to start with?
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Old 12-09-2015, 08:16 PM   #888
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I'm building a 3.0 and purchased a set of aluminum rear hubs..does anyone have recommendations as to what camber hole to start with?
Same as stock.
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Old 12-09-2015, 09:47 PM   #889
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In regards to the “optional” rear axle spacer without them I noticed a great amount of play with the axle inside the hub carrier. I thought to myself that this didn’t seem right because on my 2.0 there was no play whatsoever. When I looked back through my 2.0 manual I noticed that it says to put these spacers in automatically. I then put the spacers in and found that it removed the play and made everything like it was on my 2.0.
So short and sweet I guess the question(s) I pose to Mr. Root is: Why aren’t we instructed to put these spacers in off the bat? Why is it an “option”? And what is the benefit of having it either way?
I don’t mean to come on harsh, especially on my first post ever.
Thanks!
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Old 12-09-2015, 10:11 PM   #890
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Here is my take, I would you think you can have near zero play with or without the spacer. Try pulling the axle towards you (in direction outside of the car) completely as the plastic hex is pressed on.

With the inner spacer installed, the solid pin doesn't seat as far into the plastic hex recess I think.

However without the spacer, the solid pin seats extra further and all the way into the plastic hex recess, as you pull the axle towards you to completely do that. (maybe it possibly wasn't before initally.)

That being said, in either case it is okay to have a touch of very tiny play though in the end, as you don't want anything overly tight though in the end.
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Old 12-09-2015, 10:34 PM   #891
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Does anyone know what parts would be needed to make the car legal width running the Schumacher EOS wheels ?
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Old 12-09-2015, 11:51 PM   #892
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Well I got mine on Dec. 2. I have a 22 1.0, 22 2.0 x 3 and now a 22 3.0. I have been impressed with TLR vehicles. Great build just as my 2.0 buggies. Everything went together very well. I live 4 hours away from my track in Vegas. I have a very loamy track in my backyard. I use one of my 22 2.0 mid motor cars to keep my practice up. We'll I tried my 3.0 out for a couple laps and I was very impressed at how well it hooked up. Being the stock setup is more towards a clay style track and not loose cap track. Thank you Frank one of the reasons I am now a loyal TLR fan.
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Old 12-10-2015, 12:05 AM   #893
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Has anyone else found that the kit yellow rear springs are super soft? I have since changed them out for pinks LF and the car is great. But the difference in stiffness going from yellow to pink is drastic when you squeeze them in your hand but pink is only 1 step stiffer if my chart is correct?
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Old 12-10-2015, 12:20 AM   #894
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The wheels, are they specific to the 22? And the 3.0 uses 12mm front hexes, but the offset still makes it a 22 specific. Is it safe to assume the other brand wheels won't work on this car?
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Old 12-10-2015, 12:26 AM   #895
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Has anyone else found that the kit yellow rear springs are super soft? I have since changed them out for pinks LF and the car is great. But the difference in stiffness going from yellow to pink is drastic when you squeeze them in your hand but pink is only 1 step stiffer if my chart is correct?
What track type you running on?
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Old 12-10-2015, 12:53 AM   #896
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The wheels, are they specific to the 22? And the 3.0 uses 12mm front hexes, but the offset still makes it a 22 specific. Is it safe to assume the other brand wheels won't work on this car?
Nope ae wheels will bind when tightened up also the offset is way off. But you can use the axles from a 22 2.0 and run the the 10 mm hex wheels with no offset issues. But TLR is discontinuing the 10mm wheels.
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Old 12-10-2015, 01:28 AM   #897
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Any idea on 13.5 gearing?
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Old 12-10-2015, 07:33 AM   #898
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I'm putting together a 4 gear trans, just wanted to know if the alum idler gear is a must?
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Old 12-10-2015, 07:39 AM   #899
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Any idea on 13.5 gearing?
According to the manual, 25/70 is a good place to start. It is not too difficult to work out the same ratio for other spur gear combinations.
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Old 12-10-2015, 07:53 AM   #900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr3d93 View Post
In regards to the “optional” rear axle spacer without them I noticed a great amount of play with the axle inside the hub carrier. I thought to myself that this didn’t seem right because on my 2.0 there was no play whatsoever. When I looked back through my 2.0 manual I noticed that it says to put these spacers in automatically. I then put the spacers in and found that it removed the play and made everything like it was on my 2.0.
So short and sweet I guess the question(s) I pose to Mr. Root is: Why aren’t we instructed to put these spacers in off the bat? Why is it an “option”? And what is the benefit of having it either way?
I don’t mean to come on harsh, especially on my first post ever.
Thanks!
If I remember correctly, adding the spacer was the equivalent to raising the tranny 1mm on the 1.0. There is play without the spacer b/c when you tighten the wheel, it draws everything together, pulling the bone to the outside of the car/outdrive...so the spacer is not necessary. Adding the spacer ensures that the bone stays further in the outdrive, and creates more bind and changes drive characteristics, hence the reason it's "optional"

So though there is play without the spacer, it's nothing to worry about.

I may have it backwards, and someone can correct me.
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