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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 12-05-2015, 02:08 PM   #736
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What's the weight difference in the light weight body?
13-18g. Sheets of lexan/poly carbonate vary a bit.
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Old 12-05-2015, 02:34 PM   #737
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Does the axle shim help rear traction?
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Old 12-05-2015, 03:13 PM   #738
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It will improve rear grip. How much is determined by track conditions and driving style and tires. Are you running the kit setup?
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Old 12-05-2015, 03:26 PM   #739
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I have detailed weight info for those that are interested.

My car is stock 22 3.0 with these option parts:

TLR1072 - Front Pivot, Aluminum
TLR1557 - Servo Horn, 25T, Aluminum
TLR2930 - Rear Hex, Standard Width, Aluminum
TLR332009 - Idler Gear, Aluminum
TLR334016 - HD Turnbuckle Kit, Titanium
TLR4166 - Titanium Shock Mounts
Aluminum lock nuts throughout
Titanium screws throughout

Running a Futaba S9451 servo, Futaba R203GF receiver, Original Novak GTB, SMC lightweight 3500mAh Shorty, Novak Ballistic 7.5, Proline carpet tires front and rear.

I have attached photos showing the corner weights with the battery in various positions.
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Last edited by Matt M.; 03-11-2017 at 03:28 AM.
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Old 12-05-2015, 04:46 PM   #740
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I had a chance to get my buggy out on the track today and it was a mixed result, no fault of the chassis. During the build I decided to throw in a rebuilt, done by the man himself, Trinity D4 SS and it was a horrible decision. The motor was returned right after purchase due to multiple issues and after being returned, was not much better and turned out to be a total dog. This made clearing jumps a real pita and had to be damn smooth just to get around the track.

Besides a poor decision to run a crappy motor and not bring any of my Team Powers 17.5, this chassis built to stock spec was very well mannered. It jumped so predictably it made me grin, just well poised in the air with no twitchy tendencies, very inspiring. The suspension set to stock settings was only lacking a slightly stiffer rear spring which I didn't bother to swap out as I wasn't pushing it that hard with the crappy motor situation.

The more I think about it I am going to put a mod motor in it, bump up the rear spring a bit and push this buggy harder. I couldn't be happier with this chassis, I think many folks who spend the cash and do some comparisons are going to be very pleased at this chassis mannerisms. For our indoor, mildly damp clay track, with Electrons in purple front and back, this buggy is planted with wheels on the ground or in the air.
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Old 12-05-2015, 04:58 PM   #741
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gte024h View Post
I have detailed weight info for those that are interested.

My car is stock 22 3.0 with these option parts:

TLR1072 - Front Pivot, Aluminum
TLR1557 - Servo Horn, 25T, Aluminum
TLR2930 - Rear Hex, Standard Width, Aluminum
TLR332009 - Idler Gear, Aluminum
TLR334016 - HD Turnbuckle Kit, Titanium
TLR4166 - Titanium Shock Mounts
Aluminum lock nuts throughout
Titanium screws throughout

Running a Futaba S9451 servo, Futaba R203GF receiver, Original Novak GTB, SMC lightweight 3500mAh Shorty, Novak Ballistic 7.5, Proline carpet tires front and rear.

I have attached photos showing the corner weights with the battery in various positions.
Is that weight with or without the bodyshell? I am on 1490 with the shell so to meet spec need to add 10 grams at least or buy a heavier battery
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Old 12-05-2015, 05:15 PM   #742
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how to keep the ballcups from poping off win i set then drill them out what size
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Old 12-05-2015, 05:57 PM   #743
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Vito did you remember to use black grease on the threads of the tie rods? It will help them from popping off when you adjust them. Don't drill out the part the tie rod threads into!

If you want to make a hole in the ball end to make it easier to change ball stud washers then many guys use a tire punch. Do it just big enough so the tip of your 2mm wrench will poke through.
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Old 12-05-2015, 05:59 PM   #744
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i use chap stick and ran them in and out a few times
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Old 12-05-2015, 06:32 PM   #745
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Is that weight with or without the bodyshell? I am on 1490 with the shell so to meet spec need to add 10 grams at least or buy a heavier battery
With body on, ready to run. I think it is heavy due to the old school speed control and aluminum front pivot.
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Old 12-05-2015, 06:42 PM   #746
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I have been bashing RC cars for 20 years never raced once. When I laid eyes on the 3.0 I knew it was the one to start with. Just placed my order on A main. What are some tips for a newcomer. Thanks
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Old 12-05-2015, 07:04 PM   #747
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I have been bashing RC cars for 20 years never raced once. When I laid eyes on the 3.0 I knew it was the one to start with. Just placed my order on A main. What are some tips for a newcomer. Thanks
Have fun! Practice Practice Practice! Don't get caught up in the aftermarket accessory game. They don't mean crap if you can't make clean consistent laps. I'd recommend buying the low frequency front and rear spring sets. It seems like everyone is changing out the kit springs to better tune the car. Find out what tires the fast guys at your local track are using and use those. Did I say have fun?
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Old 12-05-2015, 07:23 PM   #748
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Vito, I always use a body reamer and ream just a little out of the end of the ball cups. And like said above use some black grease.
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Old 12-05-2015, 07:37 PM   #749
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Old 12-05-2015, 10:36 PM   #750
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now you have to take your front end back apart to put your servo in VITO. My tierods adjust just fine and I used clear diff grease when I assembled them. Try to avoid popping your ballcups off because everytime you do that it stretches them out.
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