26LikesTLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
08-23-2016, 10:37 AM - Wikipost
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.
Franks response: Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root). Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either. I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'. K.King Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea. 
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12-03-2015, 05:45 PM
#691
B5 front wheels will bind up tight, like they are locked up.
12-03-2015, 06:43 PM
#693
hope i can sleep tonight i get my buggy trw
12-03-2015, 07:48 PM
#695
Well - I'm in the process of building my new 3.0, and wow - now I understand why some were concerned about the dogbone drive pins being close to the edge of the out-drives... YIKES! (since they already posted pictures, I won't do so, but mine look exactly the same) It looks like even a thousandth of an inch of extra travel and "pop" goes the dogbone...?
But - I know everyone said "no problem - it will be OK", I will just trust it will be OK, but it is a worry...
Everything else is very good so far - some mild binding the the front suspension was the only issue so far...
The A-arms were nice and free as long as the locking setscrew was NOT installed to lock in the inner hinge pin - as soon as it was installed, the "head" on the hingepin would bind up the A-arm... Some light work to "shave" the front pivot brace took care of that...
But - I know everyone said "no problem - it will be OK", I will just trust it will be OK, but it is a worry...
Everything else is very good so far - some mild binding the the front suspension was the only issue so far...
The A-arms were nice and free as long as the locking setscrew was NOT installed to lock in the inner hinge pin - as soon as it was installed, the "head" on the hingepin would bind up the A-arm... Some light work to "shave" the front pivot brace took care of that...
12-03-2015, 08:09 PM
#697
12-03-2015, 09:52 PM
#698
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
There is nothing designed in to change the height of the battery strap. Ultimately, you want to run the highest capacity battery as you can at minimum weight, since a larger capacity battery will improve your voltage throughout a run. Since the 3.0 is pretty light, it should be VERY easy to get under minimum with a standard size shorty pack, and if I was going to race stock... I would try to run a brick pack as close to minimum weight as possible.
I have a 70c 5600 square, 65c 4300 shorty and a 100c 3000 low cg shorty. Thoughts on what everyone would run in the 3.0 and why? Run time on the 3000 has been no issue.
12-03-2015, 10:11 PM
#699
12-03-2015, 11:03 PM
#700
Well - I'm in the process of building my new 3.0, and wow - now I understand why some were concerned about the dogbone drive pins being close to the edge of the out-drives... YIKES! (since they already posted pictures, I won't do so, but mine look exactly the same) It looks like even a thousandth of an inch of extra travel and "pop" goes the dogbone...?
But - I know everyone said "no problem - it will be OK", I will just trust it will be OK, but it is a worry...
Everything else is very good so far - some mild binding the the front suspension was the only issue so far...
The A-arms were nice and free as long as the locking setscrew was NOT installed to lock in the inner hinge pin - as soon as it was installed, the "head" on the hingepin would bind up the A-arm... Some light work to "shave" the front pivot brace took care of that...
But - I know everyone said "no problem - it will be OK", I will just trust it will be OK, but it is a worry...
Everything else is very good so far - some mild binding the the front suspension was the only issue so far...
The A-arms were nice and free as long as the locking setscrew was NOT installed to lock in the inner hinge pin - as soon as it was installed, the "head" on the hingepin would bind up the A-arm... Some light work to "shave" the front pivot brace took care of that...
12-04-2015, 04:35 AM
#701
12-04-2015, 07:20 AM
#702
Tech Regular
Compared to some of you I am slow as molasses when it comes to building these things. Everything went together pretty smoothly, first TLR kit in almost twenty years for me. I am real pleased with the front end, not as much play as the B5M I built a couple months ago, nice and smooth with little play. The shocks were a nice surprise, I like the fact they use conical compression washers opposed to o-rings, should last longer and have less weeping of silicone. I am glad I bought the front and rear low frequency spring kit, for the track I run on the stock springs are pretty soft. The only items I added to the kit for the initial build was the aluminum rear hubs, Acer Racing ceramic bearings and the Schelle slipper assembly with the 69 tooth spur gear. Looking forward to running some packs through this tomorrow.
12-04-2015, 07:28 AM
#703
Tech Master
iTrader: (39)
I also ran into the lack of Pin in the rear outdrive. This photo is take with 30mm stroke on the rear shock and 3degrees of toe. Camber angle is at -1.5degrees
I did add a little shim to the rear axle to put the pin into the outdrive a little more.Attachment 1333175
I did add a little shim to the rear axle to put the pin into the outdrive a little more.Attachment 1333175
Last edited by Matt M.; 03-11-2017 at 03:28 AM.
12-04-2015, 07:29 AM
#704
Finally somebody answered this correctly. THANK YOU!!! I kept thinking to myself I don't care if the offset is different if I want to try a different tire for testing purposes. Nobody EVER said that the wheels will lock up because the hex on the rim rubs on the spindle. And I didn't figure that out till I actually tried it and found out for myself. They always say "the offset is different". I don't care about offset. But I do care if the wheels rub on the car.
12-04-2015, 07:42 AM
#705
I also ran into the lack of Pin in the rear outdrive. This photo is take with 30mm stroke on the rear shock and 3degrees of toe. Camber angle is at -1.5degrees
I did add a little shim to the rear axle to put the pin into the outdrive a little more.Attachment 1333175
I did add a little shim to the rear axle to put the pin into the outdrive a little more.Attachment 1333175