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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 12-03-2015, 06:45 PM   #691
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B5 front wheels will bind up tight, like they are locked up.
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Old 12-03-2015, 07:25 PM   #692
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to the back ey? Better change mine then!
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Old 12-03-2015, 07:43 PM   #693
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hope i can sleep tonight i get my buggy trw
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Old 12-03-2015, 08:09 PM   #694
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I'm heading up to Outback/Amain tomorrow morning. It will take every bit of self control that I can muster to not come home with one of these.
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Old 12-03-2015, 08:48 PM   #695
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Well - I'm in the process of building my new 3.0, and wow - now I understand why some were concerned about the dogbone drive pins being close to the edge of the out-drives... YIKES! (since they already posted pictures, I won't do so, but mine look exactly the same) It looks like even a thousandth of an inch of extra travel and "pop" goes the dogbone...?

But - I know everyone said "no problem - it will be OK", I will just trust it will be OK, but it is a worry...

Everything else is very good so far - some mild binding the the front suspension was the only issue so far...

The A-arms were nice and free as long as the locking setscrew was NOT installed to lock in the inner hinge pin - as soon as it was installed, the "head" on the hingepin would bind up the A-arm... Some light work to "shave" the front pivot brace took care of that...
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Old 12-03-2015, 08:55 PM   #696
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skeeter36 View Post
The car drives very well out of the box with only minor setup tweaks. IMO the kit yellow rear springs are way soft. So stiffer rear springs and 2 hole 1.6 pistons and your ready to rock.
Since the kit (at least mine) comes with 1.6 pistons for the rear shocks, that part of your comment is a bit confusing...?
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Old 12-03-2015, 09:09 PM   #697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tfrahm View Post
Since the kit (at least mine) comes with 1.6 pistons for the rear shocks, that part of your comment is a bit confusing...?
Sounds like he he is saying adding a stiffer spring to the (stock) 1.6 pistons and you will be good. I may be incorrect.
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Old 12-03-2015, 10:52 PM   #698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
There is nothing designed in to change the height of the battery strap. Ultimately, you want to run the highest capacity battery as you can at minimum weight, since a larger capacity battery will improve your voltage throughout a run. Since the 3.0 is pretty light, it should be VERY easy to get under minimum with a standard size shorty pack, and if I was going to race stock... I would try to run a brick pack as close to minimum weight as possible.
Interesting, when you say brick pack I'm assuming you mean the square pack that is like 2 saddles put together? I actually tried that in my 2.0 but didn't like the extra weight as far as how the car handled, not necessarily speed. My local club runs 17.5 but allows timing and boosting, so weight really isn't an issue. I just tried that pack for the low cg advantage, we run on a indoor rubber surface with very high grip. Foam under the brace and it snugs down the battery perfectly.

I have a 70c 5600 square, 65c 4300 shorty and a 100c 3000 low cg shorty. Thoughts on what everyone would run in the 3.0 and why? Run time on the 3000 has been no issue.
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Old 12-03-2015, 11:11 PM   #699
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tfrahm View Post
Since the kit (at least mine) comes with 1.6 pistons for the rear shocks, that part of your comment is a bit confusing...?
I forgot to put in the part 1.6 in the front my bad lol
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Old 12-04-2015, 12:03 AM   #700
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tfrahm View Post
Well - I'm in the process of building my new 3.0, and wow - now I understand why some were concerned about the dogbone drive pins being close to the edge of the out-drives... YIKES! (since they already posted pictures, I won't do so, but mine look exactly the same) It looks like even a thousandth of an inch of extra travel and "pop" goes the dogbone...?

But - I know everyone said "no problem - it will be OK", I will just trust it will be OK, but it is a worry...

Everything else is very good so far - some mild binding the the front suspension was the only issue so far...

The A-arms were nice and free as long as the locking setscrew was NOT installed to lock in the inner hinge pin - as soon as it was installed, the "head" on the hingepin would bind up the A-arm... Some light work to "shave" the front pivot brace took care of that...
You can always add the axle spacer that is included in the tuning bag onto the axle. It'll push the pin in 1mm and give a little more "comfort".
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Old 12-04-2015, 05:35 AM   #701
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You can always add the axle spacer that is included in the tuning bag onto the axle. It'll push the pin in 1mm and give a little more "comfort".
What does that do for handling?
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Old 12-04-2015, 08:20 AM   #702
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Compared to some of you I am slow as molasses when it comes to building these things. Everything went together pretty smoothly, first TLR kit in almost twenty years for me. I am real pleased with the front end, not as much play as the B5M I built a couple months ago, nice and smooth with little play. The shocks were a nice surprise, I like the fact they use conical compression washers opposed to o-rings, should last longer and have less weeping of silicone. I am glad I bought the front and rear low frequency spring kit, for the track I run on the stock springs are pretty soft. The only items I added to the kit for the initial build was the aluminum rear hubs, Acer Racing ceramic bearings and the Schelle slipper assembly with the 69 tooth spur gear. Looking forward to running some packs through this tomorrow.



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Old 12-04-2015, 08:28 AM   #703
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I also ran into the lack of Pin in the rear outdrive. This photo is take with 30mm stroke on the rear shock and 3degrees of toe. Camber angle is at -1.5degrees
I did add a little shim to the rear axle to put the pin into the outdrive a little more.Attachment 1333175
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Old 12-04-2015, 08:29 AM   #704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgtlt View Post
B5 front wheels will bind up tight, like they are locked up.
Finally somebody answered this correctly. THANK YOU!!! I kept thinking to myself I don't care if the offset is different if I want to try a different tire for testing purposes. Nobody EVER said that the wheels will lock up because the hex on the rim rubs on the spindle. And I didn't figure that out till I actually tried it and found out for myself. They always say "the offset is different". I don't care about offset. But I do care if the wheels rub on the car.
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Old 12-04-2015, 08:42 AM   #705
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie Hanson View Post
I also ran into the lack of Pin in the rear outdrive. This photo is take with 30mm stroke on the rear shock and 3degrees of toe. Camber angle is at -1.5degrees
I did add a little shim to the rear axle to put the pin into the outdrive a little more.Attachment 1333175
Can you post a picture of where the 1mm shim goes? It doesn't show it in the manual. Does the car just naturally have 1mm of slop behind the axel pin? Seems odd.
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