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Old 08-23-2016, 10:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

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Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 12-03-2015, 01:38 PM   #676
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Curious why there are little extension at the end of the side pods? Almost where there used to be body mounts for the 2.0. They don't seem to serve any purpose?
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Old 12-03-2015, 01:48 PM   #677
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Which servo spacer should be used for KO servos? 2,1, or .05
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Old 12-03-2015, 01:52 PM   #678
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Which servo spacer should be used for KO servos? 2,1, or .05
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Old 12-03-2015, 02:04 PM   #679
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Ok, so I just went back and threw a light weight 2s LiPo in 3.0 and it fit. The plastic parts that stick down from the battery are just long enough to provide some support to keep the battery in place. Obviously, you'll still need to put a foam spacer on the the brace to help keep everything tight. I also weighed my car at 1508g. This is with the 1mm axle spacer and the 22-4 front inner hinge pins.
Why do use the 22-4 front hinge pin?
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Old 12-03-2015, 02:11 PM   #680
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Why do use the 22-4 front hinge pin?
They use a nut on the backside to secure it instead of the set screw in the pivot. They also don't have the little divot in them halfway down (where the set screw would grab onto)
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Old 12-03-2015, 02:14 PM   #681
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Curious why there are little extension at the end of the side pods? Almost where there used to be body mounts for the 2.0. They don't seem to serve any purpose?
They match the dimple on the body and can help "lock" it from coming off. Most just clip them off the mud guards and don't put the holes into the body.

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Old 12-03-2015, 02:23 PM   #682
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My car felt better in the mains than in qualifying and the lap times agreed. I am not 100% sure why but here is one possibility. I discovered during the break between heats that there was way too much rebound in my shocks and I re-bled them. When I built them there was maybe a millimeter of rebound. When I checked them before the mains there was at least 10mm. Can someone explain why this happens? Is it air accumulating over time? Thermal expansion?
I had this same thing happen to me too, but I didn't discover this until I was at home, read your post, and then checked. At the track, the car did have a slight push to it, but I wouldn't attribute it to the car just yet with brand new tires and an overly watered down track.

Did you refill with oil and then bleed them, or did you bleed out what was already in there? I refilled mine and had to bleed them a couple times to get minimal rebound, but am left with some head space that concerns me.
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Old 12-03-2015, 03:09 PM   #683
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I was in a hurry to paint the body while i was building, i forgot the window masks so now they are stuck to the outside while i wait for a new body
I've done that. I went over the windows with black sharpie. If you want to get creative you can draw angry looking eyes on the front windshield. Make it look like an angry bird.
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Old 12-03-2015, 04:12 PM   #684
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With the new front hex, does the buggy use the same wheels as the B5m front and rear?
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Old 12-03-2015, 04:17 PM   #685
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Quick question for anyone with experience with the 22-2 aluminum hubs. I bought the aluminum hub set, pretty sure it is the one for the 22-2 as it does not match the 22-3 stock plastic piece camber holes. Which direction should the TLR logo face? It appears to need to face rearward but want to be certain before installing and having to do it over again.
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Old 12-03-2015, 04:23 PM   #686
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I installed mine logo facing forward but I haven't had a chance to run the buggy yet so could be wrong
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Old 12-03-2015, 04:26 PM   #687
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Does anyone know why the little spacer was added to the front axels between the bearings? they event needed in previous buggies, wondering why now. Im sorry if this has been covered somewhere but i haven't seen it.

Fasttrak, the logo on the alum rear hubs faces towards the back……

Thank you…….
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Old 12-03-2015, 04:32 PM   #688
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Originally Posted by jmoneym View Post
With the new front hex, does the buggy use the same wheels as the B5m front and rear?
No the off-set is different for the front.

As for the rear, some companies make specific wheels for the 22 while others use the same wheel for the B5, 22, RB6. So it depends on who's rear wheels you have.
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Old 12-03-2015, 04:32 PM   #689
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Originally Posted by Medicinal Coma View Post
Does anyone know why the little spacer was added to the front axels between the bearings? they event needed in previous buggies, wondering why now. Im sorry if this has been covered somewhere but i haven't seen it.

Fasttrak, the logo on the alum rear hubs faces towards the back……

Thank you…….
Thanks, it sure appeared to line up the camber link holes more correctly if the logo was facing backwards.

The spacers are there to keep from binding the bearings and has been the case for every vehicle I have built for many years. It keeps from putting lateral load on the bearing which will cause them to bind and wear out very quickly.
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Old 12-03-2015, 04:33 PM   #690
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With the new front hex, does the buggy use the same wheels as the B5m front and rear?
Rear wheel off-set is close, but not exact.

Front wheel off-set is WAY different.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fasttrak View Post
Quick question for anyone with experience with the 22-2 aluminum hubs. I bought the aluminum hub set, pretty sure it is the one for the 22-2 as it does not match the 22-3 stock plastic piece camber holes. Which direction should the TLR logo face? It appears to need to face rearward but want to be certain before installing and having to do it over again.
To the back.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Medicinal Coma View Post
Does anyone know why the little spacer was added to the front axels between the bearings? they event needed in previous buggies, wondering why now. Im sorry if this has been covered somewhere but i haven't seen it.

Fasttrak, the logo on the alum rear hubs faces towards the back……

Thank you…….
It just helps ensure that you can crank down on the screw and never crush the bearings, and not have any side to side play of the axle in the bearings. Just a better fit/performance/durability. I've run them in my cars for quite a while, and decided to add them to this kit.
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