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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

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Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 01-08-2017, 05:25 PM   #4096
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Duo the lightweight bodies from the original laydown kit have a problem with paint peeling off the inside? I've never had that problem before, but it's peeling like crazy. I also used Spaz Stix instead of the paint I normally use, so there's two variables in there. Unless I forgot to wash the body, I'm thinking the lightweight body is the problem.
I usually use Tamiya paint and don't really have any issues to speak of - one time I decided to switch it up and paint my sons B4 with Spaz Stix and it peeled and chipped very badly, and I prepped the body like I usually do. I guess your peeling could be related to other factors, but I have seen Spaz Stix paint fail where my other paint doesn't - so I'm passing that along for what it's worth.
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Old 01-08-2017, 06:36 PM   #4097
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how did you guys mount the fin that comes with the body in the kit? i was thinking about using shoe goo. sorry if this was already talked about. tons of pages to go through herelol
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Old 01-08-2017, 07:54 PM   #4098
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I usually use Tamiya paint and don't really have any issues to speak of - one time I decided to switch it up and paint my sons B4 with Spaz Stix and it peeled and chipped very badly, and I prepped the body like I usually do. I guess your peeling could be related to other factors, but I have seen Spaz Stix paint fail where my other paint doesn't - so I'm passing that along for what it's worth.
Thanks! Looks like I'll avoid Spaz Stix in the future. Knew I shouldn't have switched it up! I've never had problems with the Duratrax paint.
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Old 01-08-2017, 08:16 PM   #4099
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Thanks! Looks like I'll avoid Spaz Stix in the future. Knew I shouldn't have switched it up! I've never had problems with the Duratrax paint.
Glad to hear that regarding Duratrax, I just ordered a large batch of Duratrax paint and am going to try it. Tamiya has been good for me but I want to try something new. Going to try liquid mask as well on my 3.0 body.
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Old 01-08-2017, 09:21 PM   #4100
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I'm writing from the CRCRC MidWinter Championship, where Dakotah Phend starts the triple A mains from pole position. Dakotah is using our X Factory Infinity rear tower brace which moves the rear shocks to the front of the arms. Dakotah says this helps the car corner better, smoother, and helps jump better too. We'll have an interview with him on our site soon.

Phend is also using our CF front shock tower.

We also understand Frank Root will be using these parts at the Reedy Race.
Dakotah did use the X-Factory Rear Tower Brace to move the shocks to the front of the arm, and I have started to use it as well. More than anything, landing seems to be improved, as well as some corner speed improvement. Quite a bit of the team is starting to use this part as well, I'd recommend giving it a try if you're looking for a little extra performance.

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Is there any word on the release date of the new gear diff that I hear people talking about. I'm wondering if I should purchase a few more of the RTR diffs or hold off if they are close.
This month, it was supposed to announce and fell through the cracks during the holidays. I'll get it on the site this week.

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Duo the lightweight bodies from the original laydown kit have a problem with paint peeling off the inside? I've never had that problem before, but it's peeling like crazy. I also used Spaz Stix instead of the paint I normally use, so there's two variables in there. Unless I forgot to wash the body, I'm thinking the lightweight body is the problem.
It's not the LW body, it's all the same polycarbonate from the same manufacturer. Mine ULW and LW bodies have had no issues with the paint sticking, both those painted by my painter and one-color masterpieces done by yours truly.

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Originally Posted by justin _330 View Post
how did you guys mount the fin that comes with the body in the kit? i was thinking about using shoe goo. sorry if this was already talked about. tons of pages to go through herelol
/
Tuning Haus sells some ultra thin (and light) double sided tape, this did the trick for me and was fairly easy to remove when that was required also.

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Question for y'all experts
I have the 3.0 SR and am 20g under weight. Some am looking for smart hop ups, Aluminum bits that may help performance or chassis stiffness so I can add functional weight.
Car runs awesome right now so changing anything makes me paranoid I'll lose that driving sweetness,lol. But gotta make weight.
I'd do the aluminum servo mount/chassis braces for sure. Other than that, I'd just add ballast low where you think it will improve the balance on the car for you and your track.
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Old 01-08-2017, 09:41 PM   #4101
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When running the shocks on the front of the arm are you swapping the arms (left on right and right on left) or are you drilling a new shock mount hole?

And do you think this mod would be beneficial on turf?
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Old 01-09-2017, 04:22 AM   #4102
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When running the shocks on the front of the arm are you swapping the arms (left on right and right on left) or are you drilling a new shock mount hole?

And do you think this mod would be beneficial on turf?
Don't flip the arms. I just measured distance of the centerline of the center hole of shock mount on arm to centerline of outer hinge pin and drilled a hole on opposite side of arm at the measured distance.

This will definitely be a big help on turf!
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Old 01-09-2017, 04:59 AM   #4103
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The X Factory Infinity I204 tower brace kit comes with a template and the correct drill bit so it's easy to drill the hole on the front of the arm. Don't flip 'em.
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Old 01-09-2017, 05:35 AM   #4104
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When running the shocks on the front of the arm are you swapping the arms (left on right and right on left) or are you drilling a new shock mount hole?

And do you think this mod would be beneficial on turf?
You could just buy a Spec Racer kit to get arms with mounting holes on both sides

Seriously though, I suspect a running change is happening due to my spec racer having the same part number listed for the rear arms as the regular 3.0. You could probably look through new stock rear arms at you LHS to see if they are the updated ones.
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Old 01-09-2017, 06:10 AM   #4105
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I don't quite get the need for the second tower. Couldn't you just use a longer shock mount?
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Old 01-09-2017, 06:21 AM   #4106
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I don't quite get the need for the second tower. Couldn't you just use a longer shock mount?
you can do that, but the extra leverage makes the tower more susceptible to breakage, and it is really flexible. the xfactory kit does a nice job of stiffening up the tower, so you wont break things...
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Old 01-09-2017, 06:22 AM   #4107
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If you have the carpet laydown conversion do you need to buy the dirt tranny case with the motor plate or are the motor plates the same?

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the motor mount is different between kits, the carpet plate is different from the dirt plate...
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Old 01-09-2017, 07:27 AM   #4108
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Hello,

Just signed up here, and I'm slowly learning how to tune my 3.0. I race carpet and I am on tight tracks, and I would like to move my rear shocks to the front of the shock tower for less under-steer. I know that there is the XF-I204 Rear Tower Brace Kit, I know this product says it's for the laydown kit, but does it work with the Losi kit as well with the Exotek (this is the one I have).

Are there other ways to accomplish this as well. I was thinking of maybe just drilling a hole in the arms and trying that. I know people have flipped the left and right arms as well, but that will lengthen the wheelbase, which I want to avoid.

Thanks!
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Old 01-09-2017, 10:02 AM   #4109
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Does anyone have the weight of the TLR alum servo mounts (TLR331019)? Also wondering if they are structurally (improve chassis rigidity) better than the exotek version?
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Old 01-09-2017, 11:34 AM   #4110
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Originally Posted by DG Designs View Post
I don't quite get the need for the second tower. Couldn't you just use a longer shock mount?
The X-Factory conversion is worth the $... car definitely performs better. Lands noticeably better too, I think partly since it braces things up a bit.
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Last edited by Frank Root; 01-09-2017 at 09:08 PM.
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