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Old 08-23-2016, 10:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 12-18-2016, 10:49 AM   #3961
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Been out of the loop. I'm running the 3.0 with standard 3 gear, can't afford spec racer right now. I mostly run stock. What is everyone doing to make it a lighter, yet fast spec racer? I have not invested in a pucks system or lockout (probably won't run lockout), and carried over all of my aluminum upgrades from the 2.0.
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Old 12-18-2016, 11:03 AM   #3962
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Been out of the loop. I'm running the 3.0 with standard 3 gear, can't afford spec racer right now. I mostly run stock. What is everyone doing to make it a lighter, yet fast spec racer? I have not invested in a pucks system or lockout (probably won't run lockout), and carried over all of my aluminum upgrades from the 2.0.
Not specific to the 22 series but in general going to a low profile shorty battery could save 50g over a standard shorty. Also low profile servo could shave 15g off a standard servo weight. Finally there are little things like going to 14awg wire instead of 12awg wire. Also if you need a new body using one of the ultra light ones (like the spec racer comes with) will shave some weight up high. Nice thing about upgrading stuff like I mentioned is hat you can always transfer electronics if you ever decide to get a new chassis.
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Old 12-18-2016, 11:22 AM   #3963
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My stock 3.0 is only about ~50g over the limit. I believe it's best to carry as much battery as you can within the weight restrictions, this makes for the flattest discharge curve.

If your track doesn't enforce a ROAR weight limit and you can develop a good setup for an under weight car, then have at it! Light is right in racing.
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Old 12-18-2016, 02:53 PM   #3964
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Got my Spec Racer on Friday from OCRC, built it up Saturday. I have to give huge props to Frank Root for those build vids on FaceBook. Amazingly helpful and a lot of really good tips! That is a top notch added value right there. Earned a repeat customer. You guys should do more of them.

Car gets electronics soldered in this weekend and body paint later in the week can't wait! Solid kit that went together very well!
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Old 12-18-2016, 04:09 PM   #3965
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Originally Posted by F N CUDA View Post
22 3.0 Spec Racer
Got it yesterday afternoon 1 pm
Thanks OCRC Raceway!
Built it yesterday afternoon
Tested it yesterday afternoon 5pm
Raced it yesterday evening 7pm

Just as I expected, another TLR kit, out of the box, dialed.
So glad they test here.
Medium to hi bite clay.

Good job, great idea for the stock class!
Is a laydown a consideration with the spec racer?
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Old 12-19-2016, 05:50 AM   #3966
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Thought I would share a quick post. If you want a bit more roll...
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http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/664682-ae-factory-team-b44-2-thread.html
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associated/setupb44/B44.2_BuildAdvice/

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Old 12-19-2016, 02:53 PM   #3967
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I notice on some setup sheets, some of the top drivers will choose to use a non-TLR spring. Sometimes it's called out by name and in other cases only the rate is given.

I'm curious with TLR having such a wide range of springs, why do some drivers choose to go with another company's offering? Is it to achieve a very specific rate? Is it possible that with two springs of comparable rate, one will feel better?

I'm surprised sometimes to see Kyosho springs used due to their high cost. I'm assuming there has to be good reason to go that route.
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Old 12-19-2016, 08:50 PM   #3968
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Default Servo mounting

Can someone post some pictures or a video of how to modify the car in order to mount the servo behind the mounts?
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Old 12-19-2016, 09:05 PM   #3969
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Originally Posted by MNiceGuy View Post
I notice on some setup sheets, some of the top drivers will choose to use a non-TLR spring. Sometimes it's called out by name and in other cases only the rate is given.

I'm curious with TLR having such a wide range of springs, why do some drivers choose to go with another company's offering? Is it to achieve a very specific rate? Is it possible that with two springs of comparable rate, one will feel better?

I'm surprised sometimes to see Kyosho springs used due to their high cost. I'm assuming there has to be good reason to go that route.
The x-gear (kyosho) springs are really good. They are consistent and last a long time. I think the TLR low frequency springs are good for medium and low bite, but yeah, it looks like no one uses them on high bite. On my home track (carpet) they are definitely out of the picture. Maybe TLR feels there are a lot of good spring choices out there and rather than reinvent the wheel... er, spring... they focus their R&D elsewhere?
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Old 12-19-2016, 11:05 PM   #3970
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kyle3333 View Post
Can someone post some pictures or a video of how to modify the car in order to mount the servo behind the mounts?
you will need the aluminum servo mounts. TLR331019
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Old 12-19-2016, 11:33 PM   #3971
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Can you run the spec chassis with laydown with no modifications? ( drilling holes)
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Old 12-20-2016, 06:30 AM   #3972
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If I have a regular 3.0, can I just get TLR232059 (bones only), or is there additional weight savings by getting TLR232058 (whole CVD?)

These obviously go with TLR232056.

Thanks

[QUOTE=Frank Root;14726502]You'll need the aluminum diff hubs, molded outdrives and the driveshaft bones, all together.

TLR232056

and

TLR232058 or TLR232059
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Old 12-20-2016, 09:49 AM   #3973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BK24 View Post
If I have a regular 3.0, can I just get TLR232059 (bones only), or is there additional weight savings by getting TLR232058 (whole CVD?)

These obviously go with TLR232056.

Thanks
The SR axle looks to have had some material cut away from the CVD area which one could assume removes some rotating mass. How much and whether it's worth the cost I can't comment on. I chose to just buy the whole CVD.
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Old 12-20-2016, 09:56 AM   #3974
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OK, I may go that route as well - just get the whole thing.
Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by MNiceGuy View Post
The SR axle looks to have had some material cut away from the CVD area which one could assume removes some rotating mass. How much and whether it's worth the cost I can't comment on. I chose to just buy the whole CVD.
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Old 12-20-2016, 11:25 AM   #3975
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how do you feel this car compares (with the carpet laydown) to the more dedicated carpet cars xray, yok, b6?
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