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Old 08-23-2016, 10:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 09-20-2016, 03:53 PM   #3526
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Hello, recently bought the Losi 22 3.0 and I'm running the Dustin Evans setup from the roar nats. I just switched over the b5m. The track I run on is hard packed indoor clay but maybe medium grip. Running it on the dry side. I'm running 2x1.6 front and 2x1.7 rear with 32.5 Asc white front spring and yokomo green rear with 32.5. Running 24mm ride height. The car does not seem to have much side bite and chassis slaps pretty good on some of the jumps that have flat landings. Racing on the same track that I ran my B5m on didn't experience my of this. Any help would be appreciated. Was running m4 electrons front and SS crosslink rears.
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Old 09-20-2016, 07:03 PM   #3527
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IMO, I would just run it box stock and see what adjustments you need to make and then go from there.

I know ZERO about your skill level, however coming from 1/8th scale, you may find that the out of the box setup will work for you for the time being. Until you know for certain you can benefit from the laydown transmission. If you are JUST learning your car, you may have no need for all of that additional cost. At least upfront.
I've been racing since 1990. I started out in 1/10 off-road racing. I'm just not familiar with the Losi 22 2.0 and 3.0 series. I've owned the first 22 that came out and the car pushed a lot on the tracks we ran on. Back then no one was running the MM configuration, only the RM. I haven't touched a 1/10 off-road car since then. Thanks to everyone for your input and help.
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Old 09-20-2016, 07:10 PM   #3528
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I've been racing since 1990. I started out in 1/10 off-road racing. I'm just not familiar with the Losi 22 2.0 and 3.0 series. I've owned the first 22 that came out and the car pushed a lot on the tracks we ran on. Back then no one was running the MM configuration, only the RM. I haven't touched a 1/10 off-road car since then. Thanks to everyone for your input and help.
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Old 09-20-2016, 08:33 PM   #3529
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Originally Posted by triplejracer View Post
Hello, recently bought the Losi 22 3.0 and I'm running the Dustin Evans setup from the roar nats. I just switched over the b5m. The track I run on is hard packed indoor clay but maybe medium grip. Running it on the dry side. I'm running 2x1.6 front and 2x1.7 rear with 32.5 Asc white front spring and yokomo green rear with 32.5. Running 24mm ride height. The car does not seem to have much side bite and chassis slaps pretty good on some of the jumps that have flat landings. Racing on the same track that I ran my B5m on didn't experience my of this. Any help would be appreciated. Was running m4 electrons front and SS crosslink rears.
I tried running the Yoke green rear springs and found them to be to soft for this car at OCRC, which is medium grip clay. Stick with your oil and piston setup and try the following different Front/Rear spring combos:

1. AE White/ AE Green
2. Kyosho Gold / Kyosho Gold
3. Kyosho Gold / Losi LF White


See if any of those are better starting points for you, then adjust. I would also try running about 23.5 front / 23 rear ride height. If you get closer with that, one thing you can try is taking another set of 1.6 rear pistons and drilling one of the holes to 1.7 and using those in the rears.
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Old 09-21-2016, 12:23 AM   #3530
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I will try it. Thanks
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Old 09-21-2016, 08:58 AM   #3531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woulvesbaine View Post
I tried running the Yoke green rear springs and found them to be to soft for this car at OCRC, which is medium grip clay. Stick with your oil and piston setup and try the following different Front/Rear spring combos:

1. AE White/ AE Green
2. Kyosho Gold / Kyosho Gold
3. Kyosho Gold / Losi LF White


See if any of those are better starting points for you, then adjust. I would also try running about 23.5 front / 23 rear ride height. If you get closer with that, one thing you can try is taking another set of 1.6 rear pistons and drilling one of the holes to 1.7 and using those in the rears.
I run AE white 75% of the time, and AE gray the other 25%.

For the rear, I run Yokomo Green 10%, AE Green 30% and TLR LF White 60% of the time, and that is from softest to hardest. I think you'll find the TLR LF White is the easiest to drive out of those options.
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Old 09-21-2016, 09:20 AM   #3532
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Will the springs help with the side bite. Also is it common for the 22 to be so soft to chassis slap quit often?
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Old 09-21-2016, 09:53 AM   #3533
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Will the springs help with the side bite. Also is it common for the 22 to be so soft to chassis slap quit often?
The side bite just depends... on how you drive, the tires, grip of the track etc. I think you'll probably find the TLR LF whites to have the most side bite of those options, but results may vary.

I don't think the 22 3.0 chassis slaps more frequently than any other car, probably less from my experience. Depends on driving and setup though also.
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Old 09-21-2016, 12:03 PM   #3534
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Ok. I seen where some people have tried the 4 gear tranny. Do you need to go to a different spur gear or stay with the same as one?
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Old 09-21-2016, 12:27 PM   #3535
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Same gearing. The internal drive ratio remains the same either way.

(All your doing is adding one extra idler gear to reverse rotation when going to 4-gear, no effect on gearings or ratios. Hope that helped!)
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Old 09-21-2016, 12:34 PM   #3536
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Ok thanks.
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Old 09-21-2016, 01:58 PM   #3537
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Is there any advantage running the +3 rear hubs on the standard 3 gear setup? I just purchased a used buggy with these installed. I know their used on the laydown but unsure about the standard setup.
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Old 09-21-2016, 06:19 PM   #3538
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Who has the best thrust ball set as far a wear? I've been running on carpet with a gear diff and now there is a dirt track going in so I'll be running the ball diff.
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Old 09-23-2016, 01:00 PM   #3539
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Just want to make sure...

I need to purchase the laydown conversion kit + the dirt laydown gear case in order to run the dirt laydown setup?

Do I need anything else?
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Old 09-23-2016, 01:21 PM   #3540
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Just want to make sure...

I need to purchase the laydown conversion kit + the dirt laydown gear case in order to run the dirt laydown setup?

Do I need anything else?
Yes, you need those, and not, nothing else.
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