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TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!

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Old 08-23-2016, 10:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Last edit by: Matt Trimmings
Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 11-19-2015, 10:11 PM
  #331  
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Originally Posted by Jpdanger
Will the Schelle or Avid slipper system work?
Answered on the last page...
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Old 11-19-2015, 10:37 PM
  #332  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
If I am not mistaken... it looks like he has instantly picked up a full lap with just the new car. Amazing.
$300 for an extra lap? Shut up and take my money!
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Old 11-19-2015, 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Jpdanger
$300 for an extra lap? Shut up and take my money!
Ha!... Yes mine too!
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Old 11-20-2015, 02:30 AM
  #334  
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Building my 3.0 now fitting my trusty gear diff and the driveshafts look way too short

Am I not able to use my gear diff without changing driveshafts?

Last edited by Matt M.; 03-11-2017 at 03:28 AM.
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Old 11-20-2015, 02:39 AM
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Just an FYI to those who are planning on running 17.5 class with the new 3.0. Tech at Horrizon Hobbies recommended the TLR 1.0 70t spur with a 31t pinion. By my calculations that would be a 5.49 fdr. You of course have to run the 1.0 slipper pad as well.
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Old 11-20-2015, 03:07 AM
  #336  
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Originally Posted by nexxus
Building my 3.0 now fitting my trusty gear diff and the driveshafts look way too short

Am I not able to use my gear diff without changing driveshafts?
Probably with shocks on, this happens on the 22 as well if you take the shocks off;-)
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Old 11-20-2015, 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by nexxus
Building my 3.0 now fitting my trusty gear diff and the driveshafts look way too short

Am I not able to use my gear diff without changing driveshafts?
What does it look like when you attach your shocks?
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Old 11-20-2015, 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by freebird
What does it look like when you attach your shocks?
With the shocks attached it doesn't look much better to me, at low ride height (spring collars wound all the way up) and 2nd pic at what I call full droop (as car would be in the air during a jump etc)

I can see these coming out mid race.

Last edited by Matt M.; 03-11-2017 at 03:28 AM.
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Old 11-20-2015, 07:29 AM
  #339  
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Originally Posted by nexxus
Building my 3.0 now fitting my trusty gear diff and the driveshafts look way too short

Am I not able to use my gear diff without changing driveshafts?
Originally Posted by nexxus
With the shocks attached it doesn't look much better to me, at low ride height (spring collars wound all the way up) and 2nd pic at what I call full droop (as car would be in the air during a jump etc)

I can see these coming out mid race.
That's about how it looks with the ball diff too, it is close to the end, but stays in. If you have it pop out, or want a little more security, you can always add the 1mm axle spacer that is in your tuning parts bag.
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Old 11-20-2015, 08:36 AM
  #340  
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Originally Posted by nexxus
I can see these coming out mid race.
Yeah, I wouldn't run that.
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Old 11-20-2015, 10:16 AM
  #341  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
Yeah, I wouldn't run that.
It should run without issues.

This is what my ball diff looks like, and no issues with the dog bone popping out.

Last edited by Matt M.; 03-11-2017 at 03:28 AM.
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Old 11-20-2015, 10:35 AM
  #342  
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Originally Posted by tipperjackson
Just an FYI to those who are planning on running 17.5 class with the new 3.0. Tech at Horrizon Hobbies recommended the TLR 1.0 70t spur with a 31t pinion. By my calculations that would be a 5.49 fdr. You of course have to run the 1.0 slipper pad as well.
i think ill try my trusty 69 32 gearing and go from there

i have my name on one from the first shipment to Tacoma RC, i cant wait for it to get here
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Old 11-20-2015, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by gokarter64
i think ill try my trusty 69 32 gearing and go from there

i have my name on one from the first shipment to Tacoma RC, i cant wait for it to get here
Yea, I just spoke to Fantom, I have the new Fr-1 works edition coming. He recomended starting with a roll out of 2.0 and going from there. That would be a 69/34.....not too sure about that....we'll see.
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Old 11-20-2015, 11:09 AM
  #344  
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Originally Posted by Frank Root
It should run without issues.

This is what my ball diff looks like, and no issues with the dog bone popping out.
Is this due to widening the rear pivot 1mm on each side (2mm total)? Or does the new car have that much more droop?
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Old 11-20-2015, 11:15 AM
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Frank.....Are any of the team drivers using a brick pack? If so, I was wondering what the advantages or disadvantages of the brick pack would be...ie....lower cg or better weight balance etc.
Thanks Ron
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