26LikesTLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
08-23-2016, 10:37 AM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.
Franks response: Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root). Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either. I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'. K.King Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea. 
|
07-20-2016, 12:34 PM
#3241
I would say rear wings, I like to keep different heights in my box to tune with. Honestly, I have not broken a single part since I started running mine in March. I do, however, have several parts in my spare box that keep me warm and fuzzy. Diff rebuild kit, front hinge pin brace/pivot set, front arms, rear arms, rear hubs, different front hubs to tune with and shock towers. But like I said, I've only needed to replace wings so far. Great, durable buggy. Takes abuse so much better than a wheeler or a stadium truck, as they should. Enjoy!
07-20-2016, 09:36 PM
#3243
Tech Adept
Yep. The flex of the carbon gives me a lot of grip. It does start to bind up later on in the night as grip comes way up but its still fast. Thanks for that chassis i got a lot of questions from people about the car at my local track
07-20-2016, 10:33 PM
#3246
First off welcome to the racing side of this addicting hobby. Personally I would recommend a set of arms (front and back), caster blocks, rear hubs, and front and rear tower. Those would be my essential carry items. Like previously mentioned I would invest in the TLR Low Frequency spring kits, and possibly have some extra wings. The TLR 6.5" wings hold up really well!
07-21-2016, 12:27 AM
#3247
Tech Adept
As far as i know he hasnt made any more of them. Its designed as a drop in replacement for the stock 3.0 chassis, i modified it to accept the exotek laydown. None of the laydown kits allow you to reach the original far back battery location (there isnt enough room) but exotek does make a brass forward c mount that will give you more rear end weight.
Here is the car before i put the laydown in
Here is the car before i put the laydown in
Last edited by gokarter64; 07-21-2016 at 12:37 AM.
07-23-2016, 07:59 PM
#3249
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
Motor is in same position. Dirt puts the diff at standard height instead of being raised. Run standard hubs and front pivot. Always you to run a higher ride height for better jumping and landing. Running on dirt I also found the rear of the car to be more stable.
07-24-2016, 06:24 AM
#3251
What's the best thing to adjust to get more side bite in the corners?
07-24-2016, 11:49 AM
#3252
Make sure you have enough camber. After that I move the top of the shocks in. If that still doesn't do it, then I start messing with the camber links. In general, a longer camber link should give you more roll, transferring more weight to the outside and thus helping traction while cornering.
07-24-2016, 09:08 PM
#3254
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (10)
few issues for a newbie
So I just completed my first build and I have a few issues... The shocks don't bounce back up when pressing the body down, they're kinda slow coming back up. Also my rear wheels spin the same way, I was told they shouldn't. New to rc cars, any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
07-24-2016, 09:22 PM
#3255
Well for the car to move forward I hope both rear tires would spin the same way. If you are talking about your diff then it might not be tight enough yet or something may be built incorrectly.
Make sure you don't over tighten the upper shock mounts. This will bind up the shocks.
Also make sure your shock collars are setup properly for ride height. You need to adjust them to the same height and achieve arms level (hinge pin points parallel to the ground) if you don't have or access to a ride height gauge.
Make sure you don't over tighten the upper shock mounts. This will bind up the shocks.
Also make sure your shock collars are setup properly for ride height. You need to adjust them to the same height and achieve arms level (hinge pin points parallel to the ground) if you don't have or access to a ride height gauge.