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Old 08-23-2016, 10:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 05-23-2016, 11:05 AM   #2911
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Frank

I saw on your stock nats setup that you mounted the kick shim under the block. Could you give some details on that? Does this mean you are putting the block then the kick shim then the bumper? I am guessing to raise the roll center?

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Old 05-23-2016, 11:10 AM   #2912
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Do the holes in the laydown TLR334037 hubs go in order from A-F starting from the middle of the car? It's a bit confusing looking at the laydown setups on TLR's website when the setups sheet shows the 'normal' hub and the holes are not in order.
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The first inner hole in each row are extra compared to a standard hub
What letter are they when filling out a setup sheet?
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Old 05-23-2016, 11:17 AM   #2913
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I ran my exotek laydown this weekend for the first time and I loved it. It was on clay with slicks and all I did to my setup was change out tranny for the laydown and raise the front spindles 1mm. The car rotates better and I was able to run what were my normal "hero" laps times with a lot more consistency and with out having to push hard. The only con was the track fired up the AC with out adjusting moister and the track started drying out at the end of a run and then the car was loose but not undrivable. One of the local pros told me to raise the roll center in the rear and it would help with that so I will give that a try next race
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Old 05-23-2016, 11:24 AM   #2914
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Frank

I saw on your stock nats setup that you mounted the kick shim under the block. Could you give some details on that? Does this mean you are putting the block then the kick shim then the bumper? I am guessing to raise the roll center?
I asked him this exact question. He stated that it brings the front pivot to HRC height but without the need to run the aluminum HRC pivot. They don't make a plastic HRC pivot.
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Old 05-23-2016, 11:26 AM   #2915
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Frank

I saw on your stock nats setup that you mounted the kick shim under the block. Could you give some details on that? Does this mean you are putting the block then the kick shim then the bumper? I am guessing to raise the roll center?
It is like running HRC without the aluminum block. Takes a little modification and grinding.

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What letter are they when filling out a setup sheet?
I run back row, middle hold. Should be referred to as B.
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Old 05-23-2016, 11:59 AM   #2916
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Frank, by themselves, do the +3mm hubs raise or lower the roll center?
Also, what is the actual difference between the kit front pivot and the HRC front pivot?
Thanks
The HRC pivot has the inner hinge pins 2mm higher, then we raise the spindles 1mm, for 3mm total.
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Old 05-23-2016, 12:02 PM   #2917
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not going to be on here much i just lost my dad to cancer iam just going to try and keep my mind on rc
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Old 05-23-2016, 12:13 PM   #2918
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not going to be on here much i just lost my dad to cancer iam just going to try and keep my mind on rc
Sorry for your loss Vito!

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Old 05-23-2016, 02:09 PM   #2919
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You don't really need anything. It is pretty dialed in, with alum rear camber block, pivots, etc. But some ideas...

Aluminum servo horn
LW body
Alum front axles
Clamping rear hexes


If you want to go nuts,
Titanium ball studs
Titanium turnbuckles
Titanium shock mounts
Will 3.0 body fit 2.0?
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Old 05-23-2016, 02:24 PM   #2920
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Will 3.0 body fit 2.0?
No, it is much wider.
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Old 05-23-2016, 11:24 PM   #2921
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http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...d-img_3690.jpg

What front camber block is that you are using? And why if you don't mind me asking.

Thank you……...
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Old 05-23-2016, 11:54 PM   #2922
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HRC front block
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Old 05-23-2016, 11:56 PM   #2923
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I was referring to the camber block, not the hinge pin block. The picture looks like there is a metal brace on your camber block or something.
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Old 05-24-2016, 12:23 AM   #2924
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Originally Posted by Medicinal Coma View Post
I was referring to the camber block, not the hinge pin block. The picture looks like there is a metal brace on your camber block or something.
Ah, my buddy designed that for me. It's a front wing mount made of aluminum. Doesn't break and weighs less than the 3D printed ones.
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Old 05-24-2016, 11:37 AM   #2925
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Anybody have some 22 3.0 setup tips for Outback Raceway in Chico, CA? My boys might be running in the Rookie class for the JC Summer Indoor Nats.

I am especially interested in what is a good tire choice.

Thanks
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