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Old 08-23-2016, 10:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 11-15-2015, 01:58 PM   #256
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Now if TLR release a 22T 3.0 thatís as good as this car I may well jump on that too.
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Old 11-15-2015, 02:17 PM   #257
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Questions from across the pond!

For those who have run this car already on med-low grip surfaces are you using tyre additives at all as in the UK on wet astro obviously this is not an option for us and I'm after some idea of traction as everyone says it is good but if using additive then it skews the opinion a little for me

Also is there any major changes for higher grip astro compared to clay racing setup that I assume the kit setup is aimed at ( maybe Frank can answer this one?)

at the moment it's a toss up between this or the xray xb2 as for me a conventuals low rider car is to hard to drive on outdoor astro tracks (I don't race indoor even in winter) and I need a more conventional mid car for next season

Very interesting as I struggle a bit consistency wise with the YZ2 on astro (but it works really well on carpet).
You could use some additive on wet astro, it works great and minipins silver too, more grip, more forward drive.

This 3.0 looks good for sure, they did a great job on a lot of aspects, I really like it.
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Old 11-15-2015, 02:33 PM   #258
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Never owned a tlr kit, but this will def be my first. Super excited to get the kit.
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Old 11-15-2015, 04:32 PM   #259
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I started this build last night, overall I'm really happy with the car. The quality is good, the pricing is great and you get a hell of a lot of car for your money.

A couple of pain points I've found though;

- Bell crank bearings, the sit a fraction of a mm above the bell crank arms so when you fasten down the front bulkhead the bearings bind. You need to back them off to get free play in the bearing which means the screw and bulk head are not secure.

- The mud gaurds, non of the holes line up. So you need to jig and shimmy fasten and unfasten to get them to a point where they line up.

Otherwise good car, but the bell crank bearing issue is a biggy.
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Old 11-15-2015, 04:57 PM   #260
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- Bell crank bearings, the sit a fraction of a mm above the bell crank arms so when you fasten down the front bulkhead the bearings bind. You need to back them off to get free play in the bearing which means the screw and bulk head are not secure.
If you're talking about the top bearings, IIRC that is normal and they should sit slightly above with the thin washers put on top. The 2.0 cars were like this, but you have to make sure the shims are centered correctly and aren't bent. It's really easy for the shim to be misaligned, probably the only thing that's annoying about building the 22 series.
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Old 11-15-2015, 05:41 PM   #261
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How are people getting this car already? Team drivers? It doesn't release until the beginning of December.
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Old 11-15-2015, 05:49 PM   #262
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If you're talking about the top bearings, IIRC that is normal and they should sit slightly above with the thin washers put on top. The 2.0 cars were like this, but you have to make sure the shims are centered correctly and aren't bent. It's really easy for the shim to be misaligned, probably the only thing that's annoying about building the 22 series.
That's quite interesting to me. I had big trouble at first (on my v2), found it was stuck, then took it apart, then put it together again and then had it freely spinning left / right (just the base assembly before putting it on the car).

Then I actually mounted it on the car and found it had hardened up significantly; I had to back the screws off again to get it to at least be loose in the middle of the range. It'd still get stuck (not drop back due to gravity when rotating the car) at the ends of the range but...

Is the above something that I can safely leave to wear in or would it be a good idea to open it up again? I actually bought a separate spare bellcrank kit as at some point I thought I had messed it up with errant locktite or something.
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Old 11-15-2015, 05:53 PM   #263
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How are people getting this car already? Team drivers? It doesn't release until the beginning of December.
Frank posted a page or two back that team drivers and Australia have the kits already.
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Old 11-15-2015, 06:35 PM   #264
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The car looks great! I preordered mine.
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Old 11-15-2015, 08:00 PM   #265
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Is the above something that I can safely leave to wear in or would it be a good idea to open it up again? I actually bought a separate spare bellcrank kit as at some point I thought I had messed it up with errant locktite or something.
I don't think you need to crank down the screws that much, you don't want any steering binding. I had a bent chassis once, and it made it so that the bulkhead couldn't be tightened all the way. I'd probably shim it a little if it's not lining up correctly.
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Old 11-15-2015, 11:14 PM   #266
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I don't think you need to crank down the screws that much, you don't want any steering binding. I had a bent chassis once, and it made it so that the bulkhead couldn't be tightened all the way. I'd probably shim it a little if it's not lining up correctly.
Thanks, I did leave the top screws fairly loose. I will take the servo ball cup off after the first few runs and see what it feels like then, if still somewhat sticky in the end redo them (with the spare kit).
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Old 11-16-2015, 12:51 AM   #267
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Default Worlds tranny

Will the tranny case you ran at the worlds be availible as an option to the car? It would be great for winter carpet racing;-)
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Old 11-16-2015, 01:09 AM   #268
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What is the part number for the 70T spur? Will the avid or Schelle slipper system fit the 3.0?
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Old 11-16-2015, 03:43 AM   #269
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Will part TLR334005 fit the 3.0?

Or TLR334014?
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Old 11-16-2015, 04:21 AM   #270
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Car builds really well, except those bearings before mentioned. There are a few other places I need to play around with bind to free it up. If I sit it next to my YZ2 it looks like a bigger bulkier car but not heavier. Just looks like it can handle outdoor a lot better

Last edited by Matt M.; 03-11-2017 at 04:28 AM.
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