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Old 08-23-2016, 10:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 03-26-2016, 03:35 PM   #2476
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Hi All,

What size pinion should start with 13.5t motor with no timing...??
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Old 03-26-2016, 07:47 PM   #2477
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Hi All,

What size pinion should start with 13.5t motor with no timing...??
Manual says 25t pinion with 70t spur. To run a 70t spur you have to run the older style slipper or use aftermarket slipper (such as Avid or Schelle).
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Old 03-27-2016, 01:39 AM   #2478
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Hi Frank,

What is the part number for these hubs??

Thanks in advance.

Rob



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Raises the rear axle by 3mm, reducing the amount of bone plunge. The frees up the rear of the cars to car more corner speed.
Originally developed for the 22-4, we found these hubs to increase performance for the 22 3.0 on higher grip carpet and Astro tracks.




Aluminum chassis, machined gear cases, motor plate, carbon battery strap, body, aluminum rear hubs, and all the hardware. I think you'll find it is by far the best "lay down" value.
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Old 03-27-2016, 06:54 AM   #2479
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Hi Frank,

What is the part number for these hubs??

Thanks in advance.

Rob
TLR334037
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Old 03-27-2016, 07:42 AM   #2480
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Hi All,

What size pinion should start with 13.5t motor with no timing...??
Last night I ran 13.5 buggy with my 3.0. ESC in blinky and ~25 degrees timing on the endbell with a Tekin Gen2 motor. Gearing was 70/26. After 6-8 minutes of running (warmup/race) motor temps were 150-165, starting to get warm, but still acceptable.

70/25 should be a safe setup temp wise, but I expect it to be a little lacking in power especially if you have any decently long straights.

-W
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Old 03-27-2016, 09:52 AM   #2481
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Thanks......
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Old 03-27-2016, 10:01 AM   #2482
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Has anyone tried running the hott racing aluminum front bulkhead?

I was considering trying it for a couple reasons.

1. durability

2. stiffen the front end up a bit

3. little added weight in the front end
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Old 03-27-2016, 11:58 AM   #2483
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Without posting my full setup, although I can do that later, my inside rear tire is lifting during hard corners. This is on a high-grip carpet track. What is going on with the car? Too much weight transfer to the front outside? What types of things would I do to address this?

My first thought is stiffer front springs. Then I'm just guessing at thicker rear oil, maybe less droop in the rear.

Thanks!
This is probably the most common setup issue we come across at my local track with all brands and everyone has a different idea on how to fix it.
During my last test day I found moving the rear bottom shock mounting locations inwards reduced it though
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Old 03-27-2016, 02:10 PM   #2484
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This is probably the most common setup issue we come across at my local track with all brands and everyone has a different idea on how to fix it.
During my last test day I found moving the rear bottom shock mounting locations inwards reduced it though
Yeah, softening up the rear. Should work. I'm wondering if adding limiters in the rear shocks to reduce droop will be beneficial. Although it's picking up the inside rear wheel, at which point you're past your droop setting, I wonder if reducing the amount it can roll before having to actually lift up will will prevent so much weight from shifting to the front outside.

I'm also thinking driving style can eliminate it. Following the recommendation of the local fast guy, I increased drag brake to 30% for carpet. I think I'm coming into corners hotter, slowing down hard, then whipping the back around. If I slowed down in a little more controlled way and rounded the corner carrying my momentum (rather than stop, turn, punch it), I probably wouldn't be lifting my inside rear.
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Old 03-27-2016, 02:32 PM   #2485
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Originally Posted by Callaway View Post
Without posting my full setup, although I can do that later, my inside rear tire is lifting during hard corners. This is on a high-grip carpet track. What is going on with the car? Too much weight transfer to the front outside? What types of things would I do to address this?

My first thought is stiffer front springs. Then I'm just guessing at thicker rear oil, maybe less droop in the rear.

Thanks!
Try more front droop
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Old 03-27-2016, 06:24 PM   #2486
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Try more front droop
More front droop to prevent inside rear tire lifting? I'm at the kit setup 1 mm limiters in the front, none in the rear.

So that will prevent the front from rolling as far, keeping the back end down?
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Old 03-28-2016, 08:56 AM   #2487
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Originally Posted by Wanderer77 View Post
Last night I ran 13.5 buggy with my 3.0. ESC in blinky and ~25 degrees timing on the endbell with a Tekin Gen2 motor. Gearing was 70/26. After 6-8 minutes of running (warmup/race) motor temps were 150-165, starting to get warm, but still acceptable.

70/25 should be a safe setup temp wise, but I expect it to be a little lacking in power especially if you have any decently long straights.

-W
I would run a 78/28 or 78/29. Then you will be using the new slipper pads and wont have to change spur gears for different winds.
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Old 03-28-2016, 09:14 AM   #2488
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With the aluminum rear hub carriers, is the TLR logo supposed to face the front of the car or the rear?
Bump. Still wondering about this.
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Old 03-28-2016, 09:21 AM   #2489
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Bump. Still wondering about this.
The etching forward with RM, and etching back with MM.
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Old 03-28-2016, 09:43 AM   #2490
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The etching forward with RM, and etching back with MM.
How about when used on the 22-4, which is what I'm doing with it?
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