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Old 08-23-2016, 10:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 03-21-2016, 01:02 PM   #2416
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Rob, if it were me, I'd try 1K in the rear diff for Thronhill Jr, maybe even just a light coat of Green Grease which is what I run in the Spec Slash class.

On a side note, I've been running the MIP lightened ball diff for a while now, maybe 6 race days... and it's always had a slight "notchy" feel to it, but this past race day on Sat night, the diff finally loosened up and became super smooth. Can anyone explain what happened? Was I supposed to "break in" the diff some special way and it finally took 6 race days to break in? Is this going to be one of those things that I'll have a short window of super smooth diff action before I need to replace the diff balls or something? How often are folks rebuilding their ball diffs and what are the signs to look for when it's time to rebuild the diff?
Thanks Bill. I have been wanting to get the MIP diff and puck system, just don't want to spend the money yet. I'm gonna stick with the stock ball diff for a while. I had an old gear diff from the 2.0. Just wanted to try something different. I made some changes last weekend and shaved a second off of my lap times. New more stick time to make it to the A Main. I need at least another second off to get close to you guys.
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Old 03-21-2016, 01:21 PM   #2417
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On my first run, I had built the diff a little too loose and the diff was acting like a slipper..
You should take it apart and clean out all of the lube and re-do with clean lube. When the diff is allowed to slip, the rings shed material into the diff-grease.

Tighten until the spring bottoms, then back out 1/8 turn and run it like that. A bottomed spring will also make the diff feel very gritty.
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Old 03-21-2016, 01:50 PM   #2418
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My LHS has a one original shipment 3.0. Is there any parts TLR had to change because of design issues? I would like to support the store but not if it costs me money to upgrade parts found in current new shipments.

Thanks
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Old 03-21-2016, 02:06 PM   #2419
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There were not many changes. Rear camber link to comes to mind but I am still on a my 1st revision production until
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Old 03-21-2016, 02:26 PM   #2420
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My LHS has a one original shipment 3.0. Is there any parts TLR had to change because of design issues? I would like to support the store but not if it costs me money to upgrade parts found in current new shipments.

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There were not many changes. Rear camber link to comes to mind but I am still on a my 1st revision production until
Only changes I believe were...

- Rear camber block


I think there was words of the Hinge pin/pill mounts being updated but i don't think that's true.
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Old 03-21-2016, 02:45 PM   #2421
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I heard about a few issues with the rear camber block as well but nothing real big. So point is nothing major to wait on the car for sure.
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Old 03-21-2016, 05:22 PM   #2422
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Default Broken rear aluminum ball stud mount

This weekend my aluminum rear ball stud camber plate broke. Has anybody else broken this part? It was a spare I never thought I would need to have and forced me out of the Sunday mains. I had just put the Root reedy setup on it and the car was awesome...I was really looking to run it...we had a field of 10 associated cars and 2 TLR's...and I couldn't find a spare within our crowd...
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Old 03-21-2016, 07:12 PM   #2423
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This weekend my aluminum rear ball stud camber plate broke. Has anybody else broken this part? It was a spare I never thought I would need to have and forced me out of the Sunday mains. I had just put the Root reedy setup on it and the car was awesome...I was really looking to run it...we had a field of 10 associated cars and 2 TLR's...and I couldn't find a spare within our crowd...
Mine broke as well after an awkward nose-high landing. Make sure the replacement is the revised style - you can easily tell by comparing it to your broken piece. If you're ordering online, A-Main separated their inventory and they're selling the old style with the same part number but with "_old" after the number and discounted for $12.99
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Old 03-21-2016, 07:13 PM   #2424
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...

Last edited by billdelong; 03-21-2016 at 07:14 PM. Reason: I got ninja'd
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Old 03-21-2016, 07:22 PM   #2425
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Thanks Bill. I have been wanting to get the MIP diff and puck system, just don't want to spend the money yet. I'm gonna stick with the stock ball diff for a while. I had an old gear diff from the 2.0. Just wanted to try something different. I made some changes last weekend and shaved a second off of my lap times. New more stick time to make it to the A Main. I need at least another second off to get close to you guys.
Honestly, if I were to do it over again, I'd go with the TLR lightened outdrives instead of the MIP Pucks, the MIP aluminum shafts tend to bend with the slipper eliminator on our uber high bite surface and short stack 17.5T motors. I'm having a plastic puck on one side start to wear out once every 2 race days with just a pinch of wobble. I probably need to replace the shaft on that side but have been considering going back to the stock steel shafts + TLR lightened out drives.... decisions, decisions...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Davidka View Post
You should take it apart and clean out all of the lube and re-do with clean lube. When the diff is allowed to slip, the rings shed material into the diff-grease.

Tighten until the spring bottoms, then back out 1/8 turn and run it like that. A bottomed spring will also make the diff feel very gritty.
I see, well it's super smooth now, I'll definitely put this advice to good use on my next rebuild which may be soon enough if I decide to junk the MIP out drives.
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Old 03-21-2016, 08:37 PM   #2426
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Had to buy old one from LHS because that is all they had

Last edited by Matt M.; 03-11-2017 at 03:28 AM.
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Old 03-21-2016, 11:48 PM   #2427
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Anyone here running the new FR1 Fantom motors? Are they really that fast, such as the Trinity SS or the older Fantom 17.5? thx much
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Old 03-22-2016, 05:18 AM   #2428
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Mine looks like the top one in he photo. Is that the old one? Looks like the bottom one is stronger.
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Old 03-22-2016, 05:45 AM   #2429
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Yep. Same part number. Go figure.

Amain actually done a great job and used a unique internal part number, so you know what you are buying.
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Old 03-22-2016, 05:56 AM   #2430
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guys dont freak about the camber block. the reason it slipped out to production is most likely because the pros when testing dont crash as much so initial block was fine. by no means is it weak, they probably were just shaving weight where possible, and for the general public that was an area that should have stayed more robust.

i have the latest production kit with the updated camber block and i think that is the only change. like i said i heard people say that the rear hinge pin mounts/pill insert mounts have been updated but i dont think thats true, not sure though. awesome kit, regardless.
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