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Old 08-23-2016, 10:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 02-06-2016, 04:17 PM   #1921
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I'm going to try 1.6 - 32.5 front and 1.7 - 30 rear as my only change from kit set up.
I'm using the same shock combo, with Long VLA and 2-B link, shock end in middle of arm. Pretty happy with it, so far.
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Old 02-06-2016, 04:56 PM   #1922
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What size drill bit you guys using to drill the ball cups to access the ballstuds
Just using the same leather punch we use to vent the tires. I did mine today while at Mimi's since I have to take the turnbuckles off anyhow. Punch the hole from the inside, and then just touch up the outside with a reamer slightly.
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Old 02-06-2016, 05:02 PM   #1923
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I'm using the same shock combo, with Long VLA and 2-B link, shock end in middle of arm. Pretty happy with it, so far.
I tried just going down to 27.5 in the rear yesterday and it was not the best IMO so I'm hoping the oil/piston combo I'm going to try gives me what I'm looking for

what do you feel the long VLA and the 2-B link gave you?
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Old 02-06-2016, 05:13 PM   #1924
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Just using the same leather punch we use to vent the tires. I did mine today while at Mimi's since I have to take the turnbuckles off anyhow. Punch the hole from the inside, and then just touch up the outside with a reamer slightly.
Update to titanium Lunsford the ballcups come with holes.
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Old 02-06-2016, 05:29 PM   #1925
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I tried just going down to 27.5 in the rear yesterday and it was not the best IMO so I'm hoping the oil/piston combo I'm going to try gives me what I'm looking for

what do you feel the long VLA and the 2-B link gave you?
I recently made the same change from 32.5wt front/30wt rear down to 30/27.5. For me it worked much better as my car was much lighter than I normally drive w/ my old B5m. The 3.0 (w/ MIP Pucks, aluminium hubs, and low-profile servo as my mods) came in at 1,527g - my old B5m was 1,565.

I kept my springs (Kyosho gold front, Kyosho white rear) and pistons (2x1.6 all around) the same and dropped down in oil weight and the car was much more settled for how I like to drive and the medium/high clay track at Norcal.

-Thanks, Todd
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Old 02-06-2016, 05:31 PM   #1926
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Originally Posted by KalEl63 View Post
I tried just going down to 27.5 in the rear yesterday and it was not the best IMO so I'm hoping the oil/piston combo I'm going to try gives me what I'm looking for

what do you feel the long VLA and the 2-B link gave you?
I had been using 27.5/1.6 pistons in rear and that was less reactive but landed a difficult jump a little better.

Long VLA seemed to take the edge off just a little without giving up anything. Thinking of trying short again as I've changed several things since the last time I used that setting.
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Old 02-06-2016, 06:03 PM   #1927
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The 3.0 with the blinged n tricked out 2.0.....

I'm deciding wether or not to give the 3.0 the full pimpation treatment...as it stands it just has some titanium turnbuckles, titanium shock mounts and the brass front pivot aka the gold tooth. Can't make it too pretty or I'm not gonna wanna bash the sumbich. I had that problem with the 2.0......that thing was supposed to get abused and ended up just getting babied....

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Old 02-06-2016, 06:21 PM   #1928
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Front shot.....with the gold tooth

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Old 02-06-2016, 06:30 PM   #1929
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......some side action....

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Old 02-06-2016, 07:56 PM   #1930
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Originally Posted by toddmanley View Post
I recently made the same change from 32.5wt front/30wt rear down to 30/27.5. For me it worked much better as my car was much lighter than I normally drive w/ my old B5m. The 3.0 (w/ MIP Pucks, aluminium hubs, and low-profile servo as my mods) came in at 1,527g - my old B5m was 1,565.

I kept my springs (Kyosho gold front, Kyosho white rear) and pistons (2x1.6 all around) the same and dropped down in oil weight and the car was much more settled for how I like to drive and the medium/high clay track at Norcal.

-Thanks, Todd
I didn't keep any of my Kyosho springs when I sold my RB6 so not going to look down that route as I think the kit springs are fine for me.
however if I do I'll get them out of Japan for $10 a pair or just ask the guy who bought it at a club day if I can test it as he is a top bloke and no doubt would.

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Originally Posted by Davidka View Post
I had been using 27.5/1.6 pistons in rear and that was less reactive but landed a difficult jump a little better.

Long VLA seemed to take the edge off just a little without giving up anything. Thinking of trying short again as I've changed several things since the last time I used that setting.
Yeah it wasn't quiet right for me and agreed it felt a little lazy.
I'll see what the piston/oils do and them may see what playing with the VLA does for me one day.
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Old 02-07-2016, 05:01 AM   #1931
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What size drill bit you guys using to drill the ball cups to access the ballstuds
I did one set with a brad-point drill bit and another with the punch. The punch is easier, quicker, and produced a better result. I think I used the 3 mm punch, but double-check that. Obviously you just want to punch enough for your hex driver to clear.
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Old 02-07-2016, 06:47 AM   #1932
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The 3.0 with the blinged n tricked out 2.0.....

I'm deciding wether or not to give the 3.0 the full pimpation treatment...as it stands it just has some titanium turnbuckles, titanium shock mounts and the brass front pivot aka the gold tooth. Can't make it too pretty or I'm not gonna wanna bash the sumbich. I had that problem with the 2.0......that thing was supposed to get abused and ended up just getting babied....
Nice!!! Now just had the Yeah Racing Gold screws! They match very nicely with the exotck Yellow!
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Old 02-07-2016, 05:02 PM   #1933
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Big shout out to Frank Root and Nick Miller for the help yesterday helping me with my 22 3.0. I was getting frustrated thinking I no rear grip in the car. They gave me some suggestions, after each change the car got better. I have a few more changes to make to the car they suggested and I feel I will be where I need to be.
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Old 02-07-2016, 05:27 PM   #1934
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Big shout out to Frank Root and Nick Miller for the help yesterday helping me with my 22 3.0. I was getting frustrated thinking I no rear grip in the car. They gave me some suggestions, after each change the car got better. I have a few more changes to make to the car they suggested and I feel I will be where I need to be.
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Old 02-07-2016, 06:38 PM   #1935
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Those of you running the serpent gear diff , what fluids have felt the best?
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