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TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!

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Old 08-23-2016, 10:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Last edit by: Matt Trimmings
Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 01-18-2016, 05:06 PM
  #1651  
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Originally Posted by WiscoRC
I just purchased the TLR 22 3.0 kit. I have not bought any of the electronics yet.

I am wondering if it is possible to completely assemble the kit without any of the electronics such as servo, esc, motor......

Can I put all of those electronics into place after or does it make things complicated.

Any insight would be helpful as I am a beginner. Thanks!
Yes, you can do that. You'll need to partially disassemble the front to mount but it's very minor.

Good luck with the build. Take your time and use a little of the black grease on screws that go into plastic (the tube in the kit is 10x more than you need), there are a few that are REALLY tight and it'll save your wrist & possibly your 2.5mm hex wrench.
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Old 01-18-2016, 06:04 PM
  #1652  
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Originally Posted by WiscoRC
I just purchased the TLR 22 3.0 kit. I have not bought any of the electronics yet.

I am wondering if it is possible to completely assemble the kit without any of the electronics such as servo, esc, motor......

Can I put all of those electronics into place after or does it make things complicated.

Any insight would be helpful as I am a beginner. Thanks!
The servo is really the only that u need, but if u don't have it no big deal it's only 6 screws ( 4 from bottom and 2 from top) that u have to take out
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Old 01-18-2016, 06:07 PM
  #1653  
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Originally Posted by hoyt1967
So is drilling a hole in the ballcup to access the stud a good idea on the 22 series? I like it on my xray stuff, just wondering if it compromises the strength of the cup. Also what is the best way to make the hole?
I drilled my 3.0 and had some binding. Then I built a 22-4 and used a hole punch and they were free.
So I would say use a hole punch. That's what I will do from now on.
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Old 01-18-2016, 07:25 PM
  #1654  
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Originally Posted by itsjusme
I drilled my 3.0 and had some binding. Then I built a 22-4 and used a hole punch and they were free.
So I would say use a hole punch. That's what I will do from now on.
If u use the reamer after u drill u shouldn't have a problem, I drilled and used a reamer and everything is nice and smooth
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Old 01-18-2016, 08:09 PM
  #1655  
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Pic of my 3.0.

Last edited by Matt M.; 03-11-2017 at 03:28 AM.
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Old 01-18-2016, 09:36 PM
  #1656  
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Originally Posted by Mudcat981
The 1258 is excellent. Running this in my 2 buggies, truck and 4wd and they have never failed in the past year. Going to try the 1251 this year in my 22 3.0 to shave 8 oz of weight.
Thank you. Just picked up a 3.0 and a nice 2.0 for my son
Have all electronics except a steering servo. Orion R10 and Xmod 13.5. Ordered the 1258tg be. I have a Hobbywing V3.1 and a trackstar 17.5 outlaw too. So I have my work cut out for me reading the thread. Thanks!
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Old 01-18-2016, 09:59 PM
  #1657  
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Does anyone know of a aftermarket top shaft? Or is there none out at the moment?
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Old 01-18-2016, 10:16 PM
  #1658  
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Originally Posted by ckfactory
Does anyone know of a aftermarket top shaft? Or is there none out at the moment?
Problems with the stock one? It is already aluminum...
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Old 01-18-2016, 10:35 PM
  #1659  
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Originally Posted by Frank Root
Problems with the stock one? It is already aluminum...
+1 I have had zero issues with the kit one so I am curious as to why you would want a different one because they don't get any lighter than the kit piece... high quality part IMO
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Old 01-18-2016, 10:40 PM
  #1660  
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Just wanted to say... This car is pretty damn good. It really suits my driving style and has moved me to the front of the A main at MLT. I keep finding things that make me faster with it and that excites me. Call me a TLR fanboy, but this car is super fun to race
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Old 01-18-2016, 10:51 PM
  #1661  
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Default 17.5 gearing suggestions?

Hey guys I recently built the 3.0 buggy to compare to my b5m and was just wondering what gearing I should start with,I run the d4 1s and I also run the 24k motor as well.
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Old 01-18-2016, 11:08 PM
  #1662  
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22
If u use the reamer after u drill u shouldn't have a problem, I drilled and used a reamer and everything is nice and smooth
+1
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Old 01-18-2016, 11:11 PM
  #1663  
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Originally Posted by Frank Root
Problems with the stock one? It is already aluminum...
Mine either came bent or somehow bent during my first run on the car.
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Old 01-19-2016, 03:42 AM
  #1664  
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22
If u use the reamer after u drill u shouldn't have a problem, I drilled and used a reamer and everything is nice and smooth
After using a hole punch for the cups I will never use a drill bit again. Not saying there is anything wrong with a drill bit, but the hole punch is just easier. I thought the hole punch would distort the cup, but it did not.
As I get older the easier the better for me.
That is one of the reasons i got the 22.3.0. The front end and rear hubs without the pills like the other brands out there. Less slop and knowing i have them on the right way. and it drives awesome.
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Old 01-19-2016, 05:05 AM
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Originally Posted by itsjusme
After using a hole punch for the cups I will never use a drill bit again. Not saying there is anything wrong with a drill bit, but the hole punch is just easier. I thought the hole punch would distort the cup, but it did not.
As I get older the easier the better for me.
That is one of the reasons i got the 22.3.0. The front end and rear hubs without the pills like the other brands out there. Less slop and knowing i have them on the right way. and it drives awesome.
Everyone has a preference, glad it works for u. The car is awesome. Been running my mod car for 4 races now, finally broke a ball stud, fellow tlr driver had a spare so got the other one out and ready to go. Also drove my stock car for first time and it was great. I installed the schelle slipper eliminator with the schelle spur 69t and it works great.
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