R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 08-23-2016, 10:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: Matt Trimmings
Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

Print Wikipost

Like Tree12Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-18-2016, 05:06 PM   #1651
Tech Champion
 
Davidka's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 9,861
Trader Rating: 75 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by WiscoRC View Post
I just purchased the TLR 22 3.0 kit. I have not bought any of the electronics yet.

I am wondering if it is possible to completely assemble the kit without any of the electronics such as servo, esc, motor......

Can I put all of those electronics into place after or does it make things complicated.

Any insight would be helpful as I am a beginner. Thanks!
Yes, you can do that. You'll need to partially disassemble the front to mount but it's very minor.

Good luck with the build. Take your time and use a little of the black grease on screws that go into plastic (the tube in the kit is 10x more than you need), there are a few that are REALLY tight and it'll save your wrist & possibly your 2.5mm hex wrench.
Davidka is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2016, 06:04 PM   #1652
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Valley Cottage NY
Posts: 1,826
Trader Rating: 50 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by WiscoRC View Post
I just purchased the TLR 22 3.0 kit. I have not bought any of the electronics yet.

I am wondering if it is possible to completely assemble the kit without any of the electronics such as servo, esc, motor......

Can I put all of those electronics into place after or does it make things complicated.

Any insight would be helpful as I am a beginner. Thanks!
The servo is really the only that u need, but if u don't have it no big deal it's only 6 screws ( 4 from bottom and 2 from top) that u have to take out
__________________
Thanks to my sponsors:
My Credit Card
Speedychris22 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2016, 06:07 PM   #1653
Tech Adept
 
itsjusme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chicago ,IL
Posts: 208
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hoyt1967 View Post
So is drilling a hole in the ballcup to access the stud a good idea on the 22 series? I like it on my xray stuff, just wondering if it compromises the strength of the cup. Also what is the best way to make the hole?
I drilled my 3.0 and had some binding. Then I built a 22-4 and used a hole punch and they were free.
So I would say use a hole punch. That's what I will do from now on.
__________________
Ed Hawkins
itsjusme is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2016, 07:25 PM   #1654
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Valley Cottage NY
Posts: 1,826
Trader Rating: 50 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by itsjusme View Post
I drilled my 3.0 and had some binding. Then I built a 22-4 and used a hole punch and they were free.
So I would say use a hole punch. That's what I will do from now on.
If u use the reamer after u drill u shouldn't have a problem, I drilled and used a reamer and everything is nice and smooth
__________________
Thanks to my sponsors:
My Credit Card
Speedychris22 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2016, 08:09 PM   #1655
Tech Master
 
Bobby Z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Niagara Falls, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,117
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Pic of my 3.0.
__________________
Bob Zahn
Sponsored by TLR - Horizon - Spektrum - Orion - AKA

Last edited by Matt M.; 03-11-2017 at 03:28 AM.
Bobby Z is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2016, 09:36 PM   #1656
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 13
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudcat981 View Post
The 1258 is excellent. Running this in my 2 buggies, truck and 4wd and they have never failed in the past year. Going to try the 1251 this year in my 22 3.0 to shave 8 oz of weight.
Thank you. Just picked up a 3.0 and a nice 2.0 for my son
Have all electronics except a steering servo. Orion R10 and Xmod 13.5. Ordered the 1258tg be. I have a Hobbywing V3.1 and a trackstar 17.5 outlaw too. So I have my work cut out for me reading the thread. Thanks!
Dr. Gonzo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2016, 09:59 PM   #1657
Tech Fanatic
 
ckfactory's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Whittier CA
Posts: 932
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Default

Does anyone know of a aftermarket top shaft? Or is there none out at the moment?
__________________
Mitchell Tenerelli
SoCalGas
Yokomo BD7
Tamiya TRF101
ckfactory is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2016, 10:16 PM   #1658
TLRacing
 
Frank Root's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Corona, CA, USA
Posts: 5,383
Trader Rating: 25 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ckfactory View Post
Does anyone know of a aftermarket top shaft? Or is there none out at the moment?
Problems with the stock one? It is already aluminum...
__________________
Frank Root -- TLR Project Manager
Twitter - @FrankRoot FB - facebook.com/FrankRootTLR
Team Losi Racing (TLR) - Team Orion - Spektrum - JConcepts - Horizon Hobby - Stick It 1 - Sticky Kicks - Bradley's Fine Line Designs - liverc.com - OCRC Raceway - Tuning Haus - Pacific Coast Hobbies - RIP
Frank Root is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2016, 10:35 PM   #1659
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 1,190
Trader Rating: 29 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
Problems with the stock one? It is already aluminum...
+1 I have had zero issues with the kit one so I am curious as to why you would want a different one because they don't get any lighter than the kit piece... high quality part IMO
__________________
Takin the lil guy racin...
Skeeter36 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2016, 10:40 PM   #1660
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 1,190
Trader Rating: 29 (100%+)
Default

Just wanted to say... This car is pretty damn good. It really suits my driving style and has moved me to the front of the A main at MLT. I keep finding things that make me faster with it and that excites me. Call me a TLR fanboy, but this car is super fun to race
__________________
Takin the lil guy racin...
Skeeter36 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2016, 10:51 PM   #1661
Tech Elite
 
kman16jr's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Tampa,Fl.
Posts: 4,005
Trader Rating: 53 (100%+)
Default 17.5 gearing suggestions?

Hey guys I recently built the 3.0 buggy to compare to my b5m and was just wondering what gearing I should start with,I run the d4 1s and I also run the 24k motor as well.
__________________
Kevin Welfley
AE rc8b3-AE rc8b3e-AE b64d-AE b6d-AE b6
Sponsors:|DDHrc|Team Trinity|Jconcepts|Rc Adiction Products|NitroPro Fuel|M2c racing|Ultimate racing engines|Highest servos|Bellgate Distibutors|
kman16jr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2016, 11:08 PM   #1662
Tech Apprentice
 
PIHGUAM1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 99
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
If u use the reamer after u drill u shouldn't have a problem, I drilled and used a reamer and everything is nice and smooth
+1
PIHGUAM1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2016, 11:11 PM   #1663
Tech Fanatic
 
ckfactory's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Whittier CA
Posts: 932
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
Problems with the stock one? It is already aluminum...
Mine either came bent or somehow bent during my first run on the car.
__________________
Mitchell Tenerelli
SoCalGas
Yokomo BD7
Tamiya TRF101
ckfactory is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2016, 03:42 AM   #1664
Tech Adept
 
itsjusme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chicago ,IL
Posts: 208
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
If u use the reamer after u drill u shouldn't have a problem, I drilled and used a reamer and everything is nice and smooth
After using a hole punch for the cups I will never use a drill bit again. Not saying there is anything wrong with a drill bit, but the hole punch is just easier. I thought the hole punch would distort the cup, but it did not.
As I get older the easier the better for me.
That is one of the reasons i got the 22.3.0. The front end and rear hubs without the pills like the other brands out there. Less slop and knowing i have them on the right way. and it drives awesome.
__________________
Ed Hawkins
itsjusme is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2016, 05:05 AM   #1665
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Valley Cottage NY
Posts: 1,826
Trader Rating: 50 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by itsjusme View Post
After using a hole punch for the cups I will never use a drill bit again. Not saying there is anything wrong with a drill bit, but the hole punch is just easier. I thought the hole punch would distort the cup, but it did not.
As I get older the easier the better for me.
That is one of the reasons i got the 22.3.0. The front end and rear hubs without the pills like the other brands out there. Less slop and knowing i have them on the right way. and it drives awesome.
Everyone has a preference, glad it works for u. The car is awesome. Been running my mod car for 4 races now, finally broke a ball stud, fellow tlr driver had a spare so got the other one out and ready to go. Also drove my stock car for first time and it was great. I installed the schelle slipper eliminator with the schelle spur 69t and it works great.
__________________
Thanks to my sponsors:
My Credit Card
Speedychris22 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:11 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net