TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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#3871
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
It would be nice to have either option. I already have (and love) my carpet (+3.5) laydown conversion but now without 338004 building a similar car made and expensive proposition a little more expensive.
22 3.0 Kit: $299.99
New Laydown Kit (338005): $139.99
+3.5 Laydown Transmission: $71.99
+3mm Rear Hub: $31.99
TOTAL: $543.96
This a $64 increase for carpet guys over the buying the car with 338004.
Perhaps the dirt conversion will suffice? All I can say Frank is my carpet laydown with your April '16 JBRL setup is amazing.
#3872
what is the part number for the standard height aluminum hubs. Not the +3mm. The regular old standard height is what I am looking for. Is it tlr334014?
#3873
#3874
thanks. I did not know if there were newer ones or if it was still these
#3875
Theses are the +3mm
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-lo...334037/p495526
#3876
Tech Addict
iTrader: (25)
camber at c-hub
Camber Link Height:
Altering the camber link’s height (position vertically on the tower or occasionally on the hub) changes the vehicle’s roll center. This adjustment is most often tuned on the rear of the vehicle. Technically speaking, roll center is defined by the SAE as “the point in the transverse vertical plane though any pair of wheel centers at which lateral forces may be applied to the sprung mass without producing suspension roll.” ---- In other words: Think of roll center more simply as the point around which the vehicle’s chassis rolls in a corner.
So how do we apply roll center to vehicle tuning? All things being equal, when you move the camber link up the tower, the roll center is moved lower on the vehicle. When the link is moved down on the tower, the roll center is raised. In general, a high roll center (lower on the tower) is better for slippery or bumpy tracks because when you move the roll center really far from the ground level in either direction you introduce jacking, which messes with the ride height of the car, and you have a track width change that can either help or hurt your cornering performance.
For smoother high speed tracks, a low roll center helps decrease roll, and decrease weight transfer from left to right in a left hand turn and reduces the “tippy” roll-over feeling a car may get in high speed corners on a high traction track. Steering into the corner is increased as the car will “bite” more going in, but the vehicle will feel more stable coming out of the corner.
You can tune your over/understeer characteristic with roll center. Raising the roll center on the front or rear will make that end wash out first. So raising the rear will wash out the rear and make the car looser. Raising the front roll center will wash out the front first and make the car push.
Altering the camber link’s height (position vertically on the tower or occasionally on the hub) changes the vehicle’s roll center. This adjustment is most often tuned on the rear of the vehicle. Technically speaking, roll center is defined by the SAE as “the point in the transverse vertical plane though any pair of wheel centers at which lateral forces may be applied to the sprung mass without producing suspension roll.” ---- In other words: Think of roll center more simply as the point around which the vehicle’s chassis rolls in a corner.
So how do we apply roll center to vehicle tuning? All things being equal, when you move the camber link up the tower, the roll center is moved lower on the vehicle. When the link is moved down on the tower, the roll center is raised. In general, a high roll center (lower on the tower) is better for slippery or bumpy tracks because when you move the roll center really far from the ground level in either direction you introduce jacking, which messes with the ride height of the car, and you have a track width change that can either help or hurt your cornering performance.
For smoother high speed tracks, a low roll center helps decrease roll, and decrease weight transfer from left to right in a left hand turn and reduces the “tippy” roll-over feeling a car may get in high speed corners on a high traction track. Steering into the corner is increased as the car will “bite” more going in, but the vehicle will feel more stable coming out of the corner.
You can tune your over/understeer characteristic with roll center. Raising the roll center on the front or rear will make that end wash out first. So raising the rear will wash out the rear and make the car looser. Raising the front roll center will wash out the front first and make the car push.
I've been looking for another explanation of the camber link height at the C-HUB, but I cannot find one. Googled it and looked her at the camber link tuning guide. Anyway. I have the schelle camber block on my 3.0 along with the stock c-hub.
1. When one raises the ballstud height at the c-hub, is it the same effect as at the tower camber block? how is it different?
2. I assume this effect is the same on the front of the car?
thank u!
per schelle racing:
*Standard height with 0 washers between upper and base is equal to the "-1" position using TLR kit inserts.
#3877
Tech Regular
I don't think you absolutely need a short servo, it depends on what electronics you use and how you position them. I run my Sanwa receiver and LRP flow "inline" - so I have to use a short servo to position them this way. If I placed them side by side in the chassis I could run a standard sized servo. Just depends on your preference.
As far as servo horns go, I don't think you will have any problem finding out which one to use. I would find the servo you want first and then go from there. I have used Futaba, Spektrum, and Airtronics without any issues. I'm currently using a Spektrum 6240 and really like it. As for shims, I think you want to shim so the servo link is parallel to the rack. I have mine set this way and have no issues.
As far as servo horns go, I don't think you will have any problem finding out which one to use. I would find the servo you want first and then go from there. I have used Futaba, Spektrum, and Airtronics without any issues. I'm currently using a Spektrum 6240 and really like it. As for shims, I think you want to shim so the servo link is parallel to the rack. I have mine set this way and have no issues.
Just don't want to have to keep removing it to add shims
#3878
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (9)
Question, I was looking at the Spektrum S6270 servo. It's very fast and good torque. I will be racing, but the buggy is relatively light. I am wondering if this is overkill?
Specifications:
Size Category: Standard
Type: Digital
Application: Surface
Torque: 174/152/124 oz-in (12.5/10.9/8.92 kg-cm) @ 8.4/7.4/6.0V
Speed: .05/.06/.07 sec. @ 8.4/7.4/6.0V
Length: 1.61 in (41mm)
Width: 0.82 in (20.9mm)
Height: 1.06 in (26.7mm)
Weight: 42g
Bushing Or Bearing: Bearing
Bearing: Dual
Motor Type: Coreless
Connector Type: Z-connector
Gear Type: Metal
Gear Material: Metal
Voltage: 4.8 - 8.4V
Thank you.
Specifications:
Size Category: Standard
Type: Digital
Application: Surface
Torque: 174/152/124 oz-in (12.5/10.9/8.92 kg-cm) @ 8.4/7.4/6.0V
Speed: .05/.06/.07 sec. @ 8.4/7.4/6.0V
Length: 1.61 in (41mm)
Width: 0.82 in (20.9mm)
Height: 1.06 in (26.7mm)
Weight: 42g
Bushing Or Bearing: Bearing
Bearing: Dual
Motor Type: Coreless
Connector Type: Z-connector
Gear Type: Metal
Gear Material: Metal
Voltage: 4.8 - 8.4V
Thank you.
#3879
Question, I was looking at the Spektrum S6270 servo. It's very fast and good torque. I will be racing, but the buggy is relatively light. I am wondering if this is overkill?
Specifications:
Size Category: Standard
Type: Digital
Application: Surface
Torque: 174/152/124 oz-in (12.5/10.9/8.92 kg-cm) @ 8.4/7.4/6.0V
Speed: .05/.06/.07 sec. @ 8.4/7.4/6.0V
Length: 1.61 in (41mm)
Width: 0.82 in (20.9mm)
Height: 1.06 in (26.7mm)
Weight: 42g
Bushing Or Bearing: Bearing
Bearing: Dual
Motor Type: Coreless
Connector Type: Z-connector
Gear Type: Metal
Gear Material: Metal
Voltage: 4.8 - 8.4V
Thank you.
Specifications:
Size Category: Standard
Type: Digital
Application: Surface
Torque: 174/152/124 oz-in (12.5/10.9/8.92 kg-cm) @ 8.4/7.4/6.0V
Speed: .05/.06/.07 sec. @ 8.4/7.4/6.0V
Length: 1.61 in (41mm)
Width: 0.82 in (20.9mm)
Height: 1.06 in (26.7mm)
Weight: 42g
Bushing Or Bearing: Bearing
Bearing: Dual
Motor Type: Coreless
Connector Type: Z-connector
Gear Type: Metal
Gear Material: Metal
Voltage: 4.8 - 8.4V
Thank you.
#3881
Tech Rookie
Lay down transmission conversion
Hey there, new to this thread. Let me know if I should be posting this somewhere else. I currently run an original TLR 22. I'm looking at getting a new 2wd buggy and am weighing the 22 3.0 or the B6D. My local track said either way, guys have been having a lot of success with the lay down transmission on their buggies. It's $28 to do this to the B6D, but it's $180 for the 22 3.0. Why so much? Is the conversion needed, is there benefit to it? Any insight on if TLR will get more competitive on the price? Thanks for any insight you may have.
#3882
Tech Regular
The manual is a starting point, there are so many different kinds of servos now they can't cover all of them. But the goal with the servo is to have it positioned so the link is parallel to the rack. You may want to check out Frank Root's Facebook Live 22 3.0 Spec build...a lot of areas on that kit are just like the regular 3.0, he goes into good detail while building. I watched it and picked up a few tips for myself. It may help visualize some of what's going on.
#3883
Tech Regular
Ok thanks will take a look
#3884
Man... $543 when a B6 can be had standup or laydown for ~$300. This has been a problem across TLR's whole history, going back to the original JRX2. Just put the correct configuration into a finished kit, already!
#3885
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (9)
Gathering my goodies to build up a 22 3.0SR, anyone know the difference between the Tekin Gen3 17.5 and 17.5rpm?
Tekin website says the RPM is ideal for "1/12 touring car", but I see people touting its superior performance in spec buggy over the standard 17.5.
Tekin website says the RPM is ideal for "1/12 touring car", but I see people touting its superior performance in spec buggy over the standard 17.5.