26LikesTLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
08-23-2016, 10:37 AM - Wikipost
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.
Franks response: Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root). Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either. I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'. K.King Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea. 
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12-22-2015, 02:26 AM
#1112
Can someone explain the wing spacer thingy that has 8 degrees on one side and 0 degrees on the other. If it is to change the angle of the wing, than should it not be on the underside of the wing and not on the top? And if it's not for wing adjustment, than what is its purpose?
12-22-2015, 03:58 AM
#1113
Almost ready... hope to take her on the maiden voyage this weekend!
12-22-2015, 07:20 AM
#1114
Tech Initiate
12-22-2015, 08:17 AM
#1116
Can someone explain the wing spacer thingy that has 8 degrees on one side and 0 degrees on the other. If it is to change the angle of the wing, than should it not be on the underside of the wing and not on the top? And if it's not for wing adjustment, than what is its purpose?
12-22-2015, 10:51 AM
#1117
Just ordered this kit!! Will be here next week. Really excited!!! My first buggy.
12-22-2015, 08:59 PM
#1120
I went from a B5M with an assortment of upgrades. MIP 3 Gear, MIP Top Shaft, Titanium Turn Buckles, and an assortment of tuning and other little upgrades. To the TLR 22 3.0 out of box parts and I find it to be a night and day difference. The TLR is so much easier to drive and jumps just perfect. Just my opinion of course
12-22-2015, 10:23 PM
#1121
calling on frank root!!
Will the aluminum front camber block from the 22 2.0 fit on the 3.0?... How accurate is the hop up section on the tlracing web site. For example a part is in the 3.0 hop up section but beside the part pic, name and description it shows " 22 2.0/ 22SCT, and/or 22T.....but not 3.0. Any help would be great....thanks
Will the aluminum front camber block from the 22 2.0 fit on the 3.0?... How accurate is the hop up section on the tlracing web site. For example a part is in the 3.0 hop up section but beside the part pic, name and description it shows " 22 2.0/ 22SCT, and/or 22T.....but not 3.0. Any help would be great....thanks
12-23-2015, 06:22 AM
#1122
I've been running TLR 2wd buggies since the JRX-2 came out and in the past I have been vocally critical of TLR for selling packaged 2wd kits that required lots of option parts to run a base, race setup.
I'm so pleased with the 22 3.0. Out of the box, with almost the kit setup (I tweaked only oils & link positions to emulate Dustin Evans' Trackside setup since that's my track) this kit is truly ready to race. Since I only race in the winter these days I expect it'll be a couple weeks of regaining my driving skill before I can even think of an adjustment to improve.
The shock package is excellent, with seals that slide so freely you expect the oil to just run right out (mine haven't leaked a drop) and a quiet, solid transmission (thanks for making the spring stiffer..) is always nice. The fit and quality rivals anything I've ever built and my car weighs 1516g box stock (with way too much paint on the body).
Excellent job to all at TLR. This, like the 8ight platform is really something to be proud of. And congratulations to you Frank, working in product management myself, I can imagine the "cat herding" exercise of projects this complicated could take years off of your life, and TLR delivered it right on time.
I'm so pleased with the 22 3.0. Out of the box, with almost the kit setup (I tweaked only oils & link positions to emulate Dustin Evans' Trackside setup since that's my track) this kit is truly ready to race. Since I only race in the winter these days I expect it'll be a couple weeks of regaining my driving skill before I can even think of an adjustment to improve.
The shock package is excellent, with seals that slide so freely you expect the oil to just run right out (mine haven't leaked a drop) and a quiet, solid transmission (thanks for making the spring stiffer..) is always nice. The fit and quality rivals anything I've ever built and my car weighs 1516g box stock (with way too much paint on the body).
Excellent job to all at TLR. This, like the 8ight platform is really something to be proud of. And congratulations to you Frank, working in product management myself, I can imagine the "cat herding" exercise of projects this complicated could take years off of your life, and TLR delivered it right on time.
12-23-2015, 10:03 AM
#1123
I want to apologize in advance for this long post but I am at a loss. My son got his 3.0 first and when we took it to our local track the weather and track moister must have been perfect for the stock setup and M4 Electrons all the way around because this car had more traction then a 1/12 scale! We were so pumped to finally have a 2 wheel buggy that had rear grip! Well, I got mine and, of course, the weather and track changed, as expected, and now we can not get the cars to hook up for nothing. We got MC compound Electrons (my son got several different compounds of dirt webs) also which seemed to help but the thing about it is, there were other guys there last night that said they never had so much rear grip and I didn't get a chance to ask how or why. I'm like wth? I moved the battery back and laid the tops of the shocks in on the rear, everything else is stock. We have plenty of entry grip but when you get to get on it outta the corners it just kicks out and makes the car very hard to drive. Guys, I know that this is almost impossible to determine without actually being and there are so many scenarios there, but so many people say that the box stock setup is so good (with very small changes as need be) but we are having to deviate from it so drastically that I feel that we are missing something (and it doesn't seem to help)? I asked for help at the track and a guy was very helpful but it still didn't completely solve the problem. What does it take to get a 2 wheel buggy to hook up on hard packed, almost blue groove conditions? How much rear traction can a person realistically expect a 2 wheel buggy to have under any conditions? I've been in this hobby for over 20 years and I have always had this trouble with 2 wheel buggies. Maybe it's just me but when I get ready to exit a turn or corner, I expect it to grab and go, not a drifting comp. Again, I know that this is hard to diagnose without being there but what the heck are we doing wrong? I'm afraid that my carpet background may be my Akillies Heel? Everything that we have done has helped, a little and I know that sometimes it's all the little things that add up, it's just that I'm not getting any younger and I can't get to the track as often as possible and it just seems like we are having to work way to hard to achieve what we are after. After 20 years I should be able to figure this out myself and I'd rather but I'm hoping that maybe someone can shed some light on the situation.
12-23-2015, 10:17 AM
#1124
I want to apologize in advance for this long post but I am at a loss. My son got his 3.0 first and when we took it to our local track the weather and track moister must have been perfect for the stock setup and M4 Electrons all the way around because this car had more traction then a 1/12 scale! We were so pumped to finally have a 2 wheel buggy that had rear grip! Well, I got mine and, of course, the weather and track changed, as expected, and now we can not get the cars to hook up for nothing. We got MC compound Electrons (my son got several different compounds of dirt webs) also which seemed to help but the thing about it is, there were other guys there last night that said they never had so much rear grip and I didn't get a chance to ask how or why. I'm like wth? I moved the battery back and laid the tops of the shocks in on the rear, everything else is stock. We have plenty of entry grip but when you get to get on it outta the corners it just kicks out and makes the car very hard to drive. Guys, I know that this is almost impossible to determine without actually being and there are so many scenarios there, but so many people say that the box stock setup is so good (with very small changes as need be) but we are having to deviate from it so drastically that I feel that we are missing something (and it doesn't seem to help)? I asked for help at the track and a guy was very helpful but it still didn't completely solve the problem. What does it take to get a 2 wheel buggy to hook up on hard packed, almost blue groove conditions? How much rear traction can a person realistically expect a 2 wheel buggy to have under any conditions? I've been in this hobby for over 20 years and I have always had this trouble with 2 wheel buggies. Maybe it's just me but when I get ready to exit a turn or corner, I expect it to grab and go, not a drifting comp. Again, I know that this is hard to diagnose without being there but what the heck are we doing wrong? I'm afraid that my carpet background may be my Akillies Heel? Everything that we have done has helped, a little and I know that sometimes it's all the little things that add up, it's just that I'm not getting any younger and I can't get to the track as often as possible and it just seems like we are having to work way to hard to achieve what we are after. After 20 years I should be able to figure this out myself and I'd rather but I'm hoping that maybe someone can shed some light on the situation.
12-23-2015, 10:21 AM
#1125
As you said it's hard to look at without being there in person, if you haven't had someone to look at it yet.
One thing came to mind, perhaps if the car was feeling fine before as you guy had freshly built kits that seemed to handle reasonably well. Perhaps since then the diff has loosen up a bit more after being run in some from where it was initially tight (maybe check the setting, and see if it needs to be re-tightened and/or rebuilt if it was ran too loose for long period of time and has become gritty).
It can cause diffing out / inconsistent handling if it has become looser or gritty over time perhaps as you feed power in. Hopefully someone can chime in some other suggestions or ideas to help you guys get back on the right track.
One thing came to mind, perhaps if the car was feeling fine before as you guy had freshly built kits that seemed to handle reasonably well. Perhaps since then the diff has loosen up a bit more after being run in some from where it was initially tight (maybe check the setting, and see if it needs to be re-tightened and/or rebuilt if it was ran too loose for long period of time and has become gritty).
It can cause diffing out / inconsistent handling if it has become looser or gritty over time perhaps as you feed power in. Hopefully someone can chime in some other suggestions or ideas to help you guys get back on the right track.
Last edited by 4wd Racer; 12-23-2015 at 10:31 AM.