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Old 08-23-2016, 10:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 01-02-2016, 02:53 PM   #1366
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Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
The assembly steps are correct, the set sheet in the manual is incorrect.



This information is not accurate.

Thanks for the info. Perhaps you could put a pdf of the kit setup on the web site in case there are running changes in the future.
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Old 01-02-2016, 04:40 PM   #1367
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I'd try Dustin Evans setup posted on Petit. I have plenty of steering using it. This car feels great and setup changes seem to be made quicker than my B5 was. Losi also has some killer shocks and seems to land on a pillow off jumps. The kit setup does push a bit but its a safe starting point for most. Me personally am finding that I like my traditional shock package from my B5 with this car but I will try other things to see what they feel like.
Did you find it has less push than the kit set up?
I went thru the kit setup V Dustin's set up to see what changes he made and what each change might do but due to the differences it gets confusing after about the 4th one
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Old 01-02-2016, 06:39 PM   #1368
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Just got my car to the roller stage tonight. Went together pretty well. I did end up tapping each hole, this is just something that i do on every car I build.

The only trouble I had was installing the rear arms, I had to loosen the screws that hold the rear shock tower in place so I could get the front arm block installed.

Looking forward to running the car soon!
I have considered tapping holes also, but wondered if it would make the screws loosen up too easy. So I assume you never had a problem of screws loosening up and backing out over time?

What type of tap do you use (taper tap, plug tap or bottom tap)?

Do you tap them completely thorough or leave a taper so that the screws can bight into the plastic at the end?

I already built my 3.0, but my son is planning to get one soon so maybe we will try tapping his.
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Old 01-02-2016, 06:49 PM   #1369
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I know it was posted in here somewhere and I can't find it, but does anyone know the part numbers to any gear diff that will work with this car? KYO, TLR or whatever else work...thanks!
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Old 01-02-2016, 09:15 PM   #1370
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Yes was discussed previously in this thread. Losi gear diff was used. Part # LOSA2954
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Old 01-02-2016, 09:37 PM   #1371
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I decided not to push a hole through the plastic with my hole punch. I drilled a hole from the inside of the cup outward. At least with a drill bit the plastic is cut and not stressed from the hole punch.
I use the AKA punch and punch a 2mm hole then use a reamer to ream just enough for the tip of my hex wrench to fit. You can use a small amount of pressure and rotate the cup back and forth to cut it.
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Old 01-02-2016, 09:38 PM   #1372
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Did you find it has less push than the kit set up?
I went thru the kit setup V Dustin's set up to see what changes he made and what each change might do but due to the differences it gets confusing after about the 4th one
It was a ton of low speed steering which for the current layout works great. The mod TLR driver ran his spare car in stock with a modified Mayfield setup and he wound up winning last night. I'm going back out with my B5 shock package on the Evans setup tomorrow. Will report back on my thoughts.
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Old 01-02-2016, 09:40 PM   #1373
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I just bought the Lunsford ball cups, they fit great and already have the holes in them.

Last edited by MrLean; 01-03-2016 at 07:24 PM.
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Old 01-02-2016, 11:11 PM   #1374
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I'm waiting for my kit to come is there any parts I should before I start building the car as far as hop ups/bling factor
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Old 01-02-2016, 11:35 PM   #1375
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I'm waiting for my kit to come is there any parts I should before I start building the car as far as hop ups/bling factor
Rear clamping hexes are a must. Titanium turnbuckles and front aluminum axles would next on the list.
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Old 01-02-2016, 11:56 PM   #1376
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Rear clamping hexes are a must. Titanium turnbuckles and front aluminum axles would next on the list.
I would rather put the stuff I need before I build it thank you for the info
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Old 01-03-2016, 12:40 AM   #1377
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Couple of good days of racing at Trackside in Milwaukee, there were at least a dozen 3.0 buggies and about 50 entries in Stock Buggy each of the last 2 days. A few things about the car:

-One local racer who had recently finished his 3.0 build showed me his outdrive/driveshaft clearance about a week ago and asked me if mine looked about the same. I am running the TLR Aluminum Driveshafts (not the ones out of the kit) but his did look a lot more outward than mine, so I advised what many have mentioned in this thread -- installing the spacers from the optional parts bag behind the axle.

Unfortunately, he didn't finish his main today due to the drive shaft popping out of the outdrive, even with the spacers installed! There was certainly an impact that caused it, but I just wanted to throw the report out there that I did see it happen -- but I didn't see it happen to any of the other 3.0s on the track in either stock or mod.

-I didn't talk to one owner who didn't have good things to say about the car, lots of praise for the new rear end design and no real complaints about the build that I heard. I didn't hear anything that made me think "yeah, I had that issue too" that wasn't tuning related.

-Most people had started with the Dustin Evans setup from the Horizon race and adjusted from there, if one word came up more than other about the way the car drove it was "predictable." The current layout has a lot of technical spots where it's easy for an over-jump or under-jump to flip the car or land on a pipe, and lots of people commented on how the way the car jumps made it easy to consistently land it how you wanted to.

Search the googles or youtubes for Trackside Chili Dump 2016 if you want to see video of some mains with some 3.0s in action!
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Old 01-03-2016, 07:48 AM   #1378
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Originally Posted by DJPod View Post
I have considered tapping holes also, but wondered if it would make the screws loosen up too easy. So I assume you never had a problem of screws loosening up and backing out over time?

What type of tap do you use (taper tap, plug tap or bottom tap)?

Do you tap them completely thorough or leave a taper so that the screws can bight into the plastic at the end?

I already built my 3.0, but my son is planning to get one soon so maybe we will try tapping his.
In every kit I have tapped the holes, I have never had a screw come loose. I started doing this years ago when Losi kits were graphite, you had to tap the holes. I do it because the cars go together so much easier and it's easier on the screw hexes. I used a 3mm plug tap on this car and went all the way through. If i were to do it again, I would probably not tap the caster blocks where the shouldered screws go in.
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Old 01-03-2016, 09:46 AM   #1379
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Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
The kit setup is always a little on the conservative (understeer) side. It can easily be dialed in for a LOT of steering if you want it.

What you be some steps to increase steering, besides changing front pistons, springs and changing washers on the ballstuds?
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Old 01-03-2016, 10:29 AM   #1380
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In order to run jconcepts 60mm wheels, what do I need to buy?

I assume the wheel the JC lists for the 22 uses the smaller hex.
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