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Old 08-23-2016, 10:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 01-02-2016, 05:22 AM   #1351
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Default Kit Setup

I have a question about the kit setup. If you look at section E-6 in the manual, it says to put the lower shock mount on the middle hole on the arm, however the setup sheet on page 57 says to put it on the inside hole? Which one is correct?
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Old 01-02-2016, 05:42 AM   #1352
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All you need is a leather hole punch, you should have one to punch holes in your tires, simple and easy
Thanks, I've seen that tip suggested before but forgot about it. So you punch through from the inside? Doesn't distort the ball cup or cause any binding issues? That definitely sounds like the easiest method.
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Old 01-02-2016, 05:43 AM   #1353
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Originally Posted by Wheeler26 View Post
I have a question about the kit setup. If you look at section E-6 in the manual, it says to put the lower shock mount on the middle hole on the arm, however the setup sheet on page 57 says to put it on the inside hole? Which one is correct?
Setup sheet is correct. They had to get the assembly artwork finished long before they were done tweaking the setup.
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Old 01-02-2016, 05:48 AM   #1354
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Setup sheet is correct. They had to get the assembly artwork finished long before they were done tweaking the setup.
Thanks mate
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Old 01-02-2016, 06:11 AM   #1355
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The setup sheet also says red front springs (kit is silver).

Try both positions, many are settling on the middle hole in the rear arm.
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Old 01-02-2016, 06:19 AM   #1356
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The setup sheet also says red front springs (kit is silver).

Try both positions, many are settling on the middle hole in the rear arm.
Oops. I must have read wrong somewhere in this thread... I thought everyone had been deferring to the setup sheet. At least that's what I'm doing as I'm starting my build.
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Old 01-02-2016, 06:23 AM   #1357
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Originally Posted by Callaway View Post
Thanks, I've seen that tip suggested before but forgot about it. So you punch through from the inside? Doesn't distort the ball cup or cause any binding issues? That definitely sounds like the easiest method.
Yes through the inside, just big enough for your driver to fit, I have never had any issues with it binding or distorted ball cups
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Old 01-02-2016, 06:38 AM   #1358
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Thanks, I've seen that tip suggested before but forgot about it. So you punch through from the inside? Doesn't distort the ball cup or cause any binding issues? That definitely sounds like the easiest method.
I decided not to push a hole through the plastic with my hole punch. I drilled a hole from the inside of the cup outward. At least with a drill bit the plastic is cut and not stressed from the hole punch.
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Old 01-02-2016, 08:28 AM   #1359
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I've read some posts that claim some drivers have felt the buggy pushed too much. I'm about to start building mine tonight. Assuming we're running the kit setup, would going with the long VLA front end and running the battery front to back instead of sideways make the buggy more aggressive in tighter turns? 2 tracks I run on are very tight so I want to have an aggressive turn in. I'm coming off driving a 2.0 rear motor so I'm hoping for better steering than I've had up till this point.
I'd try Dustin Evans setup posted on Petit. I have plenty of steering using it. This car feels great and setup changes seem to be made quicker than my B5 was. Losi also has some killer shocks and seems to land on a pillow off jumps. The kit setup does push a bit but its a safe starting point for most. Me personally am finding that I like my traditional shock package from my B5 with this car but I will try other things to see what they feel like.
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Old 01-02-2016, 08:31 AM   #1360
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I decided not to push a hole through the plastic with my hole punch. I drilled a hole from the inside of the cup outward. At least with a drill bit the plastic is cut and not stressed from the hole punch.
It can weaken the plastic, I've broken a couple ball cups where the hole is, at the rear inside ball stud with an awkward landing.
I keep em with no holes there now.
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Old 01-02-2016, 09:11 AM   #1361
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wheeler26 View Post
I have a question about the kit setup. If you look at section E-6 in the manual, it says to put the lower shock mount on the middle hole on the arm, however the setup sheet on page 57 says to put it on the inside hole? Which one is correct?
The assembly steps are correct, the set sheet in the manual is incorrect.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Callaway View Post
Setup sheet is correct. They had to get the assembly artwork finished long before they were done tweaking the setup.
This information is not accurate.
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Old 01-02-2016, 11:22 AM   #1362
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Even more puzzling is that on step E-5 of the manual the upper illustration calls out the inside hole on the front arm (the dotted line points there) but then the lower illustration of the final assembly with the shock installed shows the middle hole in use?
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Old 01-02-2016, 12:55 PM   #1363
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I've punched holes in all of our ball cups for a long time now and never had an issue.
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Old 01-02-2016, 01:06 PM   #1364
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Originally Posted by Callaway View Post
Oops. I must have read wrong somewhere in this thread... I thought everyone had been deferring to the setup sheet. .
You read it right. I believe the setup sheet in the manual is supposed to call for silver front springs but says red by mistake. Frank could verify.

Run it with the silvers, reds are softer, which I doubt you'd need.
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Old 01-02-2016, 01:06 PM   #1365
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The assembly steps are correct, the set sheet in the manual is incorrect.



This information is not accurate.
Yeah, someone else pointed that out. After looking through 1,000+ posts in a thread I remembered something backwards. I do seem to recall you writing that the manual had to be done before you were finished tweaking the setup... or maybe that was in the 22SCT 2.0 thread that I read almost all of last weekend!

So the setups page on the TLR site doesn't have a "kit setup" sheet. Is the true kit setup then building according to all of the steps... so I can correct the kit setup sheet in the back of the manual by updating it according to the build?

Slowly working through the build between playing with the kids today. I've never put holes in my ball cups before, but I decided to use a 3 mm brad point bit and drill them. Looks good, but I'll see if it creates a durability issue or not. Worst case I'll learn something and maybe have to buy some new ball cups, which would create a perfect opportunity for getting some Ti turnbuckles.
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