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Old 08-23-2016, 10:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

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Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 01-01-2016, 03:20 PM   #1336
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Anyone having a problem with leaky shocks?......seems to be comming from the top cap
Did you install the upper o-ring around the shock body threads? Is the copper washer behind the bleeder screw?

I've never seen one leak if those were installed and at least moderately tightened.
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Old 01-01-2016, 03:50 PM   #1337
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Anyone went from 2deg of anti squat to 1 deg? Just trying to see if any noticeable change to the car
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Old 01-01-2016, 03:52 PM   #1338
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I've read some posts that claim some drivers have felt the buggy pushed too much. I'm about to start building mine tonight. Assuming we're running the kit setup, would going with the long VLA front end and running the battery front to back instead of sideways make the buggy more aggressive in tighter turns? 2 tracks I run on are very tight so I want to have an aggressive turn in. I'm coming off driving a 2.0 rear motor so I'm hoping for better steering than I've had up till this point.
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Old 01-01-2016, 04:18 PM   #1339
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I've read some posts that claim some drivers have felt the buggy pushed too much. I'm about to start building mine tonight. Assuming we're running the kit setup, would going with the long VLA front end and running the battery front to back instead of sideways make the buggy more aggressive in tighter turns? 2 tracks I run on are very tight so I want to have an aggressive turn in. I'm coming off driving a 2.0 rear motor so I'm hoping for better steering than I've had up till this point.
Hey jack, the only changes I made to the car wa going to 1.6 front piston, moving hubs forward and shortening rear camber link. This has helped turn in and made the car easier to drive.
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Old 01-01-2016, 04:51 PM   #1340
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According to the 22 3.0 video on TLR website Frank Root said that using the long VLA position and/or running the battery front to back would increase the reaction of the buggy. So I was wondering if anyone had tried either or both options and found positive results? I just want to build my buggy as close to where I want it handling so I have less disassembly later.
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Old 01-01-2016, 05:00 PM   #1341
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I have yet to see one of these exhibit anything I'd describe as understeer. Try beginning with the front shocks on the inside hole in the front arm and you should have enough steering to begin tuning to your liking.
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Old 01-01-2016, 05:06 PM   #1342
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Originally Posted by Jack Bonhomme View Post
According to the 22 3.0 video on TLR website Frank Root said that using the long VLA position and/or running the battery front to back would increase the reaction of the buggy. So I was wondering if anyone had tried either or both options and found positive results? I just want to build my buggy as close to where I want it handling so I have less disassembly later.
I would just work with the front end and leave the battery sideways.

Remember, the manual and setup sheets are a baseline for you to start. If you work with the front end you can move the king pin screw in and out on the arm to get the car to do what you want it to do. Once it is close, then refer to the back of the manual where it talks about the VLA and fine tune it. At least that is what I would do.
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Old 01-01-2016, 06:42 PM   #1343
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Originally Posted by Jack Bonhomme View Post
I've read some posts that claim some drivers have felt the buggy pushed too much. I'm about to start building mine tonight. Assuming we're running the kit setup, would going with the long VLA front end and running the battery front to back instead of sideways make the buggy more aggressive in tighter turns? 2 tracks I run on are very tight so I want to have an aggressive turn in. I'm coming off driving a 2.0 rear motor so I'm hoping for better steering than I've had up till this point.
The kit setup is always a little on the conservative (understeer) side. It can easily be dialed in for a LOT of steering if you want it.
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Old 01-01-2016, 06:59 PM   #1344
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Anyone having a problem with leaky shocks?......seems to be comming from the top cap
On step E-1, make sure the o-ring pictured all the way to the right is pulled down over the threads on the shock body. The first few times I built 22 shocks, I was leaving that o-ring on the top and trying to get it to seal between the top of the shock body and the cap. Snug the lid, you shouldn't have any leaking.
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Old 01-01-2016, 08:28 PM   #1345
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Anyone went from 2deg of anti squat to 1 deg? Just trying to see if any noticeable change to the car
My track just had a layout change so it is currently low bite. Stock setup with 4 gear tranny. I tried 0 degree anti squat and lost forward acceleration which affected my ability to jump/land where I wanted to and also affected initial turn in...car pushed a lot. 2 deg anti-squat was much better (no push at initial turn in and great acceleration) given that my traction was already decent from using the 4 gear tranny.
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Old 01-01-2016, 09:32 PM   #1346
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Did you install the upper o-ring around the shock body threads? Is the copper washer behind the bleeder screw?

I've never seen one leak if those were installed and at least moderately tightened.
Yes to the copper washer.....lol no to the o-ring on the threads, i put the oRing in the cap and then screwed the cap on the shock......wow....I feel a little silly now. Can't believe I built the shocks the way I did....thanks frank and Callaway for pointing out the obvious.
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Old 01-02-2016, 03:07 AM   #1347
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[IMG][/IMG]

Got to drive the buggy for the first time today on on our newly reconfigured track. All I can say, right out of the box is AWESOME.

It did have a slight push, but was not bad. Still turned tight when I needed it to, jumped and landed very planted. Took a beating when learning the timing in the rhythm section, and did not break or pop out a dog bone. Shocks never leaked.

So impressed. Great work Frank and the TLR team.
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Old 01-02-2016, 04:37 AM   #1348
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Is anyone drilling a hole in their ball cups so they can use a hex driver to change ball stud locations without popping the cups off? About to start putting my kit together and I've never done this before, but I'm really contemplating it.
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Old 01-02-2016, 05:13 AM   #1349
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Is anyone drilling a hole in their ball cups so they can use a hex driver to change ball stud locations without popping the cups off? About to start putting my kit together and I've never done this before, but I'm really contemplating it.
All you need is a leather hole punch, you should have one to punch holes in your tires, simple and easy
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Old 01-02-2016, 05:15 AM   #1350
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Is anyone drilling a hole in their ball cups so they can use a hex driver to change ball stud locations without popping the cups off? About to start putting my kit together and I've never done this before, but I'm really contemplating it.
I did that but I used a body reamer. I would have used a leather punch if I had one on hand. With the reamer, start with the underside of the ballcup until the reamer just pokes through, then start with the other side.
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