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Old 08-23-2016, 10:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 12-28-2015, 12:47 PM   #1246
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I challange the pros to compose a book that explains what all the adjustments are on rc cars, what does toe changes do? Camber, caster, roll center, Ackerman, shock rebound, spring rates, chassis flex, anti squat, droop, why do we want the motor as close to the rear as possible with a mid motor car? shareing this information can only HELP the hobby and make it easier for people to understand what is going on with there cars. I know there is the setup book that you get with HUDY setup stations but I think it should be taken to the next level....compose the book....let the most unlikely person to understand it read it, then make changes to the book until said person does understand....I know I would buy such a book.....it would be one of the most valuable tools in my tool bag.....if a book such as this exists great! I wish I had one....if not....come on PROS get on it......no offence intended with this post! Just my thoughts!
I agree, but AE has an app called RC Cheat Sheets that explains most options and what adding or taking away does. Wish TLR would create one for the 22's.
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Old 12-28-2015, 01:05 PM   #1247
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Things I don't like:

-E-Clips. It's 2015. E-Clips must go. I don't think I can put into words how much I despise E-Clips. I mean, TLR eliminated E-Clips everywhere else on the car, why did they stop at the shocks?

This is a superior design for two reason. 1) no frustrating E-Clips to deal with. 2) When you have to screw the shaft into the rod end, you can use a hex key to screw the shaft into the rod end rather than risk marring the shock shaft with pliers (which I ended up doing because the threads were so tight on the rod end).

The front body post ensures you don't lose the body in a big crash. Rare, I know but I saw a couple just yesterday.

--Why on Earth does the manual show the installation of the front body post when they give you velcro to hold the body in place? I build the car with the front body post, realized the velcro was in the kit, then had to take the front end off the car to remove the front body post. It's extra work that I would have liked to avoided.

Other notes/observations
-Weight. With a standard shorty, full size servo, Hobbywing v2.1 ESC, and 61mm wheels/tires my car weighs in at 1567g. I've seen some people in this thread claim close to/sub 1500g using standard electronics. I personally think they're full of it until they post pictures showing otherwise.

.
E-clips are used because they're small, lightweight and reliable. TLR actually pioneered the design Durango uses on the 8ight and it was problematic. Pistons would come off mid-run. Other 1/8 buggies used a substantial lock nut but that kind of space is tough to come by in a 1/10 shock.

The front body post ensures the body can't come off in a big crash. Doesn't happen often but I saw a couple come off just yesterday.

See photo of my car on scale. I was 1516g with a different set of tires.

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I agree, but AE has an app called RC Cheat Sheets that explains most options and what adding or taking away does. Wish TLR would create one for the 22's.
Sounds great! The cars are pretty similar so in the meantime I think it'll be useful for 22 drivers.
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Old 12-28-2015, 01:12 PM   #1248
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I agree, but AE has an app called RC Cheat Sheets that explains most options and what adding or taking away does. Wish TLR would create one for the 22's.
The app isn't model specific. You can use it to tune any RC vehicle. It actually does come in quite handy. Just scrolling through the list of adjustments gives you ideas that you may not have thought of. There is a lot of $h*t you can adjust!!!
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Old 12-28-2015, 01:34 PM   #1249
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Pistons would come off mid-run.
This has never once happened to me in 3 years of owning Durango cars, nor anybody else I've known running Durango cars. I'd rather have the screw than the e-clips.

I'm not trying to make this into an argument about which car is are better. It's just a feature I really liked that I am disappointed to not see on the 22, especially given how frustrating e-clips are.
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Old 12-28-2015, 01:35 PM   #1250
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What page is the servo spacing list on?
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Old 12-28-2015, 01:41 PM   #1251
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Great write up. However, your wiring setup is atrocious. Is that a rat's nest? Do people really leave their cars looking like that? Good god!
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Old 12-28-2015, 02:10 PM   #1252
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What page is the servo spacing list on?
What servo are you using?
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Old 12-28-2015, 02:21 PM   #1253
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What servo are you using?
Futaba BLS471SV
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Old 12-28-2015, 02:29 PM   #1254
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Futaba BLS471SV
2mm spacing
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Old 12-28-2015, 02:34 PM   #1255
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This has never once happened to me in 3 years of owning Durango cars, nor anybody else I've known running Durango cars. I'd rather have the screw than the e-clips.

I'm not trying to make this into an argument about which car is are better. It's just a feature I really liked that I am disappointed to not see on the 22, especially given how frustrating e-clips are.
I prefer e-clips to be honest with you. Perhaps it is because I have small hands or I have the tools to install/remove them easy, not sure.

I wish the front outer pivot pins where hinge pins rather than screws. That has been a pain in my side since I put my kit together.
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Old 12-28-2015, 02:45 PM   #1256
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For guys wanting tuning info look on pages 31-33. Covers all of the adjustments.

http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Files/BK2Complete.pdf
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Old 12-28-2015, 02:55 PM   #1257
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2mm spacing
Ok thanks. Couldn't find the info in the manual or on here
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Old 12-28-2015, 03:40 PM   #1258
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I prefer e-clips to be honest with you. Perhaps it is because I have small hands or I have the tools to install/remove them easy, not sure.

I wish the front outer pivot pins where hinge pins rather than screws. That has been a pain in my side since I put my kit together.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Pre...004H/204314893

I use the L pick for removing the e-clip (so easy), use micro flat screwdriver to put the e-clip on. Simple when you have the right tools.
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Old 12-28-2015, 04:06 PM   #1259
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Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
For guys wanting tuning info look on pages 31-33. Covers all of the adjustments.

http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Files/BK2Complete.pdf
Outstanding information. This should be in "all" manuals.
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Old 12-28-2015, 04:09 PM   #1260
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Originally Posted by mx836 View Post
The app isn't model specific. You can use it to tune any RC vehicle. It actually does come in quite handy. Just scrolling through the list of adjustments gives you ideas that you may not have thought of. There is a lot of $h*t you can adjust!!!
The information is good for all racing, but the gear ratios and calculator are AE specific.
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