TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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#1141
Anyone using anything other than the kit plastic battery stays? I've replaced mine with lock nuts which does a better job keeping the battery in place. The kit plastic stays don't stay in place and the battery "wanders."
#1142
My battery is so snug in the tray that I hardly need the stops.
Last edited by Davidka; 12-24-2015 at 05:42 PM.
#1144
The shock package is excellent, with seals that slide so freely you expect the oil to just run right out (mine haven't leaked a drop) and a quiet, solid transmission (thanks for making the spring stiffer..) is always nice. The fit and quality rivals anything I've ever built and my car weighs 1516g box stock (with way too much paint on the body).
#1145
#1146
#1147
Yes the gear diff will work. If you do decide to go that direction. Replace the stock seals with Kyosho P5 o-rings. The stockers leak pretty bad and that fixes that problem. When i ran the gear diff on my 2.0 .after a ton of testing with my set up on a med-high bite track...I ended up with 5K losi.
After a bit of time i did go back to the ball dif and found it did work better..
After a bit of time i did go back to the ball dif and found it did work better..
Last edited by LosiMadMan; 12-25-2015 at 09:33 PM.
#1148
My car:
Viper vtx10
Spektrum 3500
Futaba 9551 servo (low-profile)
RevTech 17.5 w/alloy pinion
Losi 2.2 tires & aka foams
Turnigy 4200mah lipo
#1149
I want to apologize in advance for this long post but I am at a loss. My son got his 3.0 first and when we took it to our local track the weather and track moister must have been perfect for the stock setup and M4 Electrons all the way around because this car had more traction then a 1/12 scale! We were so pumped to finally have a 2 wheel buggy that had rear grip! Well, I got mine and, of course, the weather and track changed, as expected, and now we can not get the cars to hook up for nothing. We got MC compound Electrons (my son got several different compounds of dirt webs) also which seemed to help but the thing about it is, there were other guys there last night that said they never had so much rear grip and I didn't get a chance to ask how or why. I'm like wth? I moved the battery back and laid the tops of the shocks in on the rear, everything else is stock. We have plenty of entry grip but when you get to get on it outta the corners it just kicks out and makes the car very hard to drive. Guys, I know that this is almost impossible to determine without actually being and there are so many scenarios there, but so many people say that the box stock setup is so good (with very small changes as need be) but we are having to deviate from it so drastically that I feel that we are missing something (and it doesn't seem to help)? I asked for help at the track and a guy was very helpful but it still didn't completely solve the problem. What does it take to get a 2 wheel buggy to hook up on hard packed, almost blue groove conditions? How much rear traction can a person realistically expect a 2 wheel buggy to have under any conditions? I've been in this hobby for over 20 years and I have always had this trouble with 2 wheel buggies. Maybe it's just me but when I get ready to exit a turn or corner, I expect it to grab and go, not a drifting comp. Again, I know that this is hard to diagnose without being there but what the heck are we doing wrong? I'm afraid that my carpet background may be my Akillies Heel? Everything that we have done has helped, a little and I know that sometimes it's all the little things that add up, it's just that I'm not getting any younger and I can't get to the track as often as possible and it just seems like we are having to work way to hard to achieve what we are after. After 20 years I should be able to figure this out myself and I'd rather but I'm hoping that maybe someone can shed some light on the situation.
I am a nitro 1/8th scale driver, so I'm used to a heavier, more planted 4wd car. Give it a try. Easy to change.
#1150
My car box stock setup nothing lightweight is 1563. I run mod so not worried about weight much but man i cant see makin it any lighter...
#1151
Hey Just wanted to say merry christmas to everyone and let you know i just uploaded the 22 3.0 review video!
+ YouTube Video | |
#1152
#1154
#1155
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (34)
I actually came to this thread to post some questions about my ball diff problems as well. I am running on a high-bite indoor carpet track right now. It ran fine for a while but it started barking. So I started slowly tightening it back up but it was still barking all the way to the point that I couldn't really tighten it anymore and I felt the "gritty" feeling you mentioned. I have heard a lot of people have these types of problems on carpet. Should I just stick with a gear diff for carpet and keep the ball diff for dirt? Or is there something I might be doing wrong with the ball diff? Will LOSA2954 work on this buggy? What oil should I start with?
Yes the gear diff will work. If you do decide to go that direction. Replace the stock seals with Kyosho P5 o-rings. The stockers leak pretty bad and that fixes that problem. When i ran the gear diff on my 2.0 .after a ton of testing with my set up on a med-high bite track...I ended up with 5K losi.
After a bit of time i did go back to the ball dif and found it did work better..
After a bit of time i did go back to the ball dif and found it did work better..