Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread! >

TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!

Like Tree26Likes

TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!

    Hide Wikipost
Old 08-23-2016, 10:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: Matt Trimmings
Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

Print Wikipost

Old 12-24-2015, 03:09 PM
  #1141  
Tech Regular
 
Jpdanger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: N/A
Posts: 396
Default

Anyone using anything other than the kit plastic battery stays? I've replaced mine with lock nuts which does a better job keeping the battery in place. The kit plastic stays don't stay in place and the battery "wanders."
Jpdanger is offline  
Old 12-24-2015, 04:38 PM
  #1142  
Tech Lord
iTrader: (86)
 
Davidka's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 10,883
Trader Rating: 86 (100%+)
Default

My battery is so snug in the tray that I hardly need the stops.

Last edited by Davidka; 12-24-2015 at 05:42 PM.
Davidka is offline  
Old 12-24-2015, 04:59 PM
  #1143  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (170)
 
Matt Trimmings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Tucson AZ
Posts: 6,272
Trader Rating: 170 (100%+)
Default

My kit plastic stays are plenty tight.
Matt Trimmings is offline  
Old 12-24-2015, 05:15 PM
  #1144  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (10)
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 239
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Davidka

The shock package is excellent, with seals that slide so freely you expect the oil to just run right out (mine haven't leaked a drop) and a quiet, solid transmission (thanks for making the spring stiffer..) is always nice. The fit and quality rivals anything I've ever built and my car weighs 1516g box stock (with way too much paint on the body).
I have two B5m's and a 22-4. Couldn't agree more. The TLR X-Rings are way better than the Associated. Their is zero stiction and basically zero leakage. If I didn't have so much invested in B5m wheels, I'd think seriously about switching to the 3.0 based on the excellent x rings and higher quality diffs parts (still running original diffs in the 22-4 with hundreds of runs, can't seem to make a B5m diff last more than a month)
mgers75 is offline  
Old 12-24-2015, 06:13 PM
  #1145  
Tech Regular
 
Jpdanger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: N/A
Posts: 396
Default

Originally Posted by Davidka
my car weighs 1516g box stock (with way too much paint on the body).
How is yours so light? Mine is closer to 1600g. I've since added pucks and cut gears, but otherwise I'm running 2.2 dirt webs, Reedy 410r, Savox black 1257tg, RX461, SMC shorty (214g)...
Jpdanger is offline  
Old 12-24-2015, 06:17 PM
  #1146  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (357)
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 8,491
Trader Rating: 357 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Jpdanger
How is yours so light? Mine is closer to 1600g. I've since added pucks and cut gears, but otherwise I'm running 2.2 dirt webs, Reedy 410r, Savox black 1257tg, RX461, SMC shorty (214g)...
Miss print
jmoneym is offline  
Old 12-24-2015, 06:18 PM
  #1147  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 778
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by MasiisaM
Yes the gear diff will work. If you do decide to go that direction. Replace the stock seals with Kyosho P5 o-rings. The stockers leak pretty bad and that fixes that problem. When i ran the gear diff on my 2.0 .after a ton of testing with my set up on a med-high bite track...I ended up with 5K losi.



After a bit of time i did go back to the ball dif and found it did work better..
.

Last edited by LosiMadMan; 12-25-2015 at 09:33 PM.
LosiMadMan is offline  
Old 12-24-2015, 06:51 PM
  #1148  
Tech Lord
iTrader: (86)
 
Davidka's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 10,883
Trader Rating: 86 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Jpdanger
How is yours so light? Mine is closer to 1600g. I've since added pucks and cut gears, but otherwise I'm running 2.2 dirt webs, Reedy 410r, Savox black 1257tg, RX461, SMC shorty (214g)...
*shrug*
My car:
Viper vtx10
Spektrum 3500
Futaba 9551 servo (low-profile)
RevTech 17.5 w/alloy pinion
Losi 2.2 tires & aka foams
Turnigy 4200mah lipo
Davidka is offline  
Old 12-24-2015, 07:16 PM
  #1149  
Tech Elite
 
cornerspeed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: San Diego
Posts: 2,456
Default

Originally Posted by onadcr74
I want to apologize in advance for this long post but I am at a loss. My son got his 3.0 first and when we took it to our local track the weather and track moister must have been perfect for the stock setup and M4 Electrons all the way around because this car had more traction then a 1/12 scale! We were so pumped to finally have a 2 wheel buggy that had rear grip! Well, I got mine and, of course, the weather and track changed, as expected, and now we can not get the cars to hook up for nothing. We got MC compound Electrons (my son got several different compounds of dirt webs) also which seemed to help but the thing about it is, there were other guys there last night that said they never had so much rear grip and I didn't get a chance to ask how or why. I'm like wth? I moved the battery back and laid the tops of the shocks in on the rear, everything else is stock. We have plenty of entry grip but when you get to get on it outta the corners it just kicks out and makes the car very hard to drive. Guys, I know that this is almost impossible to determine without actually being and there are so many scenarios there, but so many people say that the box stock setup is so good (with very small changes as need be) but we are having to deviate from it so drastically that I feel that we are missing something (and it doesn't seem to help)? I asked for help at the track and a guy was very helpful but it still didn't completely solve the problem. What does it take to get a 2 wheel buggy to hook up on hard packed, almost blue groove conditions? How much rear traction can a person realistically expect a 2 wheel buggy to have under any conditions? I've been in this hobby for over 20 years and I have always had this trouble with 2 wheel buggies. Maybe it's just me but when I get ready to exit a turn or corner, I expect it to grab and go, not a drifting comp. Again, I know that this is hard to diagnose without being there but what the heck are we doing wrong? I'm afraid that my carpet background may be my Akillies Heel? Everything that we have done has helped, a little and I know that sometimes it's all the little things that add up, it's just that I'm not getting any younger and I can't get to the track as often as possible and it just seems like we are having to work way to hard to achieve what we are after. After 20 years I should be able to figure this out myself and I'd rather but I'm hoping that maybe someone can shed some light on the situation.
A set up suggestion you can try is to lengthen the front camber link (inside hole on camber block #1). I ran this on my car last night for the main, so much easier to drive for me. It pushed a little and was really smooth. Had my fastest lap and overall. Much more consistent. Thanks to my team mate for the suggestion

I am a nitro 1/8th scale driver, so I'm used to a heavier, more planted 4wd car. Give it a try. Easy to change.
cornerspeed is offline  
Old 12-24-2015, 07:20 PM
  #1150  
Tech Master
iTrader: (32)
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 1,321
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

My car box stock setup nothing lightweight is 1563. I run mod so not worried about weight much but man i cant see makin it any lighter...
Skeeter36 is offline  
Old 12-24-2015, 07:30 PM
  #1151  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 948
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Hey Just wanted to say merry christmas to everyone and let you know i just uploaded the 22 3.0 review video!

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
Jason Snyder is offline  
Old 12-24-2015, 08:14 PM
  #1152  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (357)
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 8,491
Trader Rating: 357 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Skeeter36
My car box stock setup nothing lightweight is 1563. I run mod so not worried about weight much but man i cant see makin it any lighter...
I'm at 1502

Screw kit
titanium turnbuckles
MIP PUCKS
Exotek slipper eliminater
lightweight body
Half servo
jmoneym is offline  
Old 12-24-2015, 08:46 PM
  #1153  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (7)
 
RedBMaster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 506
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by jmoneym
I'm at 1502

Screw kit
titanium turnbuckles
MIP PUCKS
Exotek slipper eliminater
lightweight body
Half servo
I accidentally hit 1499g
Full servo
Airtronics combo ESC/receiver
Light weight shorty
JC finisher body from the 2.0
Aluminum bulkhead
RedBMaster is offline  
Old 12-24-2015, 09:05 PM
  #1154  
Tech Lord
iTrader: (86)
 
Davidka's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 10,883
Trader Rating: 86 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by RedBMaster
JC finisher body from the 2.0
How well does that fit? I like the look of the Finnisher.

Last edited by Davidka; 12-25-2015 at 06:27 AM.
Davidka is offline  
Old 12-24-2015, 09:16 PM
  #1155  
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (34)
 
Casper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Orange, Ca
Posts: 17,869
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by tilimil
I actually came to this thread to post some questions about my ball diff problems as well. I am running on a high-bite indoor carpet track right now. It ran fine for a while but it started barking. So I started slowly tightening it back up but it was still barking all the way to the point that I couldn't really tighten it anymore and I felt the "gritty" feeling you mentioned. I have heard a lot of people have these types of problems on carpet. Should I just stick with a gear diff for carpet and keep the ball diff for dirt? Or is there something I might be doing wrong with the ball diff? Will LOSA2954 work on this buggy? What oil should I start with?
Originally Posted by MasiisaM
Yes the gear diff will work. If you do decide to go that direction. Replace the stock seals with Kyosho P5 o-rings. The stockers leak pretty bad and that fixes that problem. When i ran the gear diff on my 2.0 .after a ton of testing with my set up on a med-high bite track...I ended up with 5K losi.

After a bit of time i did go back to the ball dif and found it did work better..
I did a little gear diff testing since I have them I liked a 2 gear (take out 2 spider gears) and 20K fluid. Need to do some ball to gear testing but this setup felt pretty good going around the track and lap times were there.
Casper is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.