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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

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Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 12-24-2015, 03:09 PM   #1141
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Anyone using anything other than the kit plastic battery stays? I've replaced mine with lock nuts which does a better job keeping the battery in place. The kit plastic stays don't stay in place and the battery "wanders."
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Old 12-24-2015, 04:38 PM   #1142
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My battery is so snug in the tray that I hardly need the stops.

Last edited by Davidka; 12-24-2015 at 05:42 PM.
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Old 12-24-2015, 04:59 PM   #1143
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My kit plastic stays are plenty tight.
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Old 12-24-2015, 05:15 PM   #1144
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The shock package is excellent, with seals that slide so freely you expect the oil to just run right out (mine haven't leaked a drop) and a quiet, solid transmission (thanks for making the spring stiffer..) is always nice. The fit and quality rivals anything I've ever built and my car weighs 1516g box stock (with way too much paint on the body).
I have two B5m's and a 22-4. Couldn't agree more. The TLR X-Rings are way better than the Associated. Their is zero stiction and basically zero leakage. If I didn't have so much invested in B5m wheels, I'd think seriously about switching to the 3.0 based on the excellent x rings and higher quality diffs parts (still running original diffs in the 22-4 with hundreds of runs, can't seem to make a B5m diff last more than a month)
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Old 12-24-2015, 06:13 PM   #1145
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my car weighs 1516g box stock (with way too much paint on the body).
How is yours so light? Mine is closer to 1600g. I've since added pucks and cut gears, but otherwise I'm running 2.2 dirt webs, Reedy 410r, Savox black 1257tg, RX461, SMC shorty (214g)...
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Old 12-24-2015, 06:17 PM   #1146
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How is yours so light? Mine is closer to 1600g. I've since added pucks and cut gears, but otherwise I'm running 2.2 dirt webs, Reedy 410r, Savox black 1257tg, RX461, SMC shorty (214g)...
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Old 12-24-2015, 06:18 PM   #1147
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Yes the gear diff will work. If you do decide to go that direction. Replace the stock seals with Kyosho P5 o-rings. The stockers leak pretty bad and that fixes that problem. When i ran the gear diff on my 2.0 .after a ton of testing with my set up on a med-high bite track...I ended up with 5K losi.



After a bit of time i did go back to the ball dif and found it did work better..
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Last edited by LosiMadMan; 12-25-2015 at 09:33 PM.
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Old 12-24-2015, 06:51 PM   #1148
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How is yours so light? Mine is closer to 1600g. I've since added pucks and cut gears, but otherwise I'm running 2.2 dirt webs, Reedy 410r, Savox black 1257tg, RX461, SMC shorty (214g)...
*shrug*
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Old 12-24-2015, 07:16 PM   #1149
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I want to apologize in advance for this long post but I am at a loss. My son got his 3.0 first and when we took it to our local track the weather and track moister must have been perfect for the stock setup and M4 Electrons all the way around because this car had more traction then a 1/12 scale! We were so pumped to finally have a 2 wheel buggy that had rear grip! Well, I got mine and, of course, the weather and track changed, as expected, and now we can not get the cars to hook up for nothing. We got MC compound Electrons (my son got several different compounds of dirt webs) also which seemed to help but the thing about it is, there were other guys there last night that said they never had so much rear grip and I didn't get a chance to ask how or why. I'm like wth? I moved the battery back and laid the tops of the shocks in on the rear, everything else is stock. We have plenty of entry grip but when you get to get on it outta the corners it just kicks out and makes the car very hard to drive. Guys, I know that this is almost impossible to determine without actually being and there are so many scenarios there, but so many people say that the box stock setup is so good (with very small changes as need be) but we are having to deviate from it so drastically that I feel that we are missing something (and it doesn't seem to help)? I asked for help at the track and a guy was very helpful but it still didn't completely solve the problem. What does it take to get a 2 wheel buggy to hook up on hard packed, almost blue groove conditions? How much rear traction can a person realistically expect a 2 wheel buggy to have under any conditions? I've been in this hobby for over 20 years and I have always had this trouble with 2 wheel buggies. Maybe it's just me but when I get ready to exit a turn or corner, I expect it to grab and go, not a drifting comp. Again, I know that this is hard to diagnose without being there but what the heck are we doing wrong? I'm afraid that my carpet background may be my Akillies Heel? Everything that we have done has helped, a little and I know that sometimes it's all the little things that add up, it's just that I'm not getting any younger and I can't get to the track as often as possible and it just seems like we are having to work way to hard to achieve what we are after. After 20 years I should be able to figure this out myself and I'd rather but I'm hoping that maybe someone can shed some light on the situation.
A set up suggestion you can try is to lengthen the front camber link (inside hole on camber block #1). I ran this on my car last night for the main, so much easier to drive for me. It pushed a little and was really smooth. Had my fastest lap and overall. Much more consistent. Thanks to my team mate for the suggestion

I am a nitro 1/8th scale driver, so I'm used to a heavier, more planted 4wd car. Give it a try. Easy to change.
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Old 12-24-2015, 07:20 PM   #1150
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My car box stock setup nothing lightweight is 1563. I run mod so not worried about weight much but man i cant see makin it any lighter...
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Old 12-24-2015, 07:30 PM   #1151
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Hey Just wanted to say merry christmas to everyone and let you know i just uploaded the 22 3.0 review video!

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 12-24-2015, 08:14 PM   #1152
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My car box stock setup nothing lightweight is 1563. I run mod so not worried about weight much but man i cant see makin it any lighter...
I'm at 1502

Screw kit
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Old 12-24-2015, 08:46 PM   #1153
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I'm at 1502

Screw kit
titanium turnbuckles
MIP PUCKS
Exotek slipper eliminater
lightweight body
Half servo
I accidentally hit 1499g
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Old 12-24-2015, 09:05 PM   #1154
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JC finisher body from the 2.0
How well does that fit? I like the look of the Finnisher.

Last edited by Davidka; 12-25-2015 at 06:27 AM.
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Old 12-24-2015, 09:16 PM   #1155
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Originally Posted by tilimil View Post
I actually came to this thread to post some questions about my ball diff problems as well. I am running on a high-bite indoor carpet track right now. It ran fine for a while but it started barking. So I started slowly tightening it back up but it was still barking all the way to the point that I couldn't really tighten it anymore and I felt the "gritty" feeling you mentioned. I have heard a lot of people have these types of problems on carpet. Should I just stick with a gear diff for carpet and keep the ball diff for dirt? Or is there something I might be doing wrong with the ball diff? Will LOSA2954 work on this buggy? What oil should I start with?
Quote:
Originally Posted by MasiisaM View Post
Yes the gear diff will work. If you do decide to go that direction. Replace the stock seals with Kyosho P5 o-rings. The stockers leak pretty bad and that fixes that problem. When i ran the gear diff on my 2.0 .after a ton of testing with my set up on a med-high bite track...I ended up with 5K losi.

After a bit of time i did go back to the ball dif and found it did work better..
I did a little gear diff testing since I have them I liked a 2 gear (take out 2 spider gears) and 20K fluid. Need to do some ball to gear testing but this setup felt pretty good going around the track and lap times were there.
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