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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 12-16-2015, 02:08 PM   #1051
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Went together with no problems. Of course I went out and promptly broke an arm while new ones were still en route. Taking it to the track tonight!

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Old 12-16-2015, 05:38 PM   #1052
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Went together with no problems. Of course I went out and promptly broke an arm while new ones were still en route. Taking it to the track tonight!
Dang, that takes some skill! I ran the car extremely hard last weekend and all I managed to do was bend a front shock mount.
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Old 12-16-2015, 06:25 PM   #1053
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Well finished my build got the car last Friday, finished electronics install and I have an issue! Everything works except getting cogging from the motor. Brand new esc, trinity D4 certified 17.5 motor, Savox 1257 servo, spektrum receiver. Tried two different sensor wires and recal and no Bueno.

On another note my car went together with no issues at all. No stripped screws, yes I used a power driver but did final tightening by hand. now waiting for my 2.4 wheels to come in since I bought slicks, because my local track that is the hot tire setup or worn down webs. Which I have no 2.0 wheels left after letting them go with my old car. All that's left is to paint.
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Try re-calibrating without sensor wire. If no cogging then ,sensor board in motor might be bad.
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Old 12-16-2015, 09:19 PM   #1054
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Try re-calibrating without sensor wire. If no cogging then ,sensor board in motor might be bad.
Yeah already got that figured out. New sensor board on the way.

All done with it though. Going to run it this weekend.

Last edited by Matt M.; 03-11-2017 at 03:28 AM.
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Old 12-17-2015, 06:34 AM   #1055
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Well, after some careful consideration and some advice here. I picked up the 3.0. I had been going back and forth on it for quite some time. Saw that they had one in my LHS.. I let it sit there for about a week before I pulled the trigger. Went in to the weekly club race and it was still there, so as fate would have it, I grabbed it.

Took me the better part of two nights to put together. Wasn't setting any records and it was my first TLR kit that I have put together, so I wanted to take my time. What a great build that was. The fit and finish was unlike anything else I have had my hands on.

Ran it last night for the first time. Box stock with box setup, on my outdoor clay track, it was quite the car. It just wanted to be pushed. I am pretty sure that I was beating my lap times that I was used to with my B4.2, I know I could push this car waaaay harder than I could my B4. I am by NO means the best driver out there, but I feel like I am getting better and with this car, it will make me a better driver overall. It just went wherever I wanted it to go. Only really wrecked once. Front straight jump. Nose in the sky. Landed on the back right wheel. Was just waiting for the snap sound. NOTHING.. Just blipped the trigger and off it went.. I couldn't believe it.

I would like to thank Frank Root and the entire community here for selling me on this car. Franks support and presence here are one of the main reasons I was so interested in this car. This level of support has been unheard of from any of the other manufacturers. This car is amazing and I can't wait to get some more wheel time with this thing.. Good thing i'm off work all next week!
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Old 12-17-2015, 07:33 AM   #1056
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Hi all,
For battery position, are most of you omitting the rear adjustable brace on the battery hold-down strap in favor of a foam block between the battery and waterfall? I am finding the rear most position with the brace in place still results in the battery being ~15mm from the waterfall and I'm seeing setups calling for 5mm from waterfall.

Also, build tip: I found several of the screw holes into plastic very tight, ie. screw squeaking as I tightened it. I found a dab of the black grease to be helpful with these. It's not something I've done often before.

Looking forward to running it. I'm starting with a modified kit setup that emulates the Dustin Evans setup on the site, since that was run at my regular track.
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Old 12-17-2015, 07:57 AM   #1057
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Hi all,
For battery position, are most of you omitting the rear adjustable brace on the battery hold-down strap in favor of a foam block between the battery and waterfall? I am finding the rear most position with the brace in place still results in the battery being ~15mm from the waterfall and I'm seeing setups calling for 5mm from waterfall.

Also, build tip: I found several of the screw holes into plastic very tight, ie. screw squeaking as I tightened it. I found a dab of the black grease to be helpful with these. It's not something I've done often before.

Looking forward to running it. I'm starting with a modified kit setup that emulates the Dustin Evans setup on the site, since that was run at my regular track.
Yes Sir, you are correct. Most dont run the rear battery positioner.
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Old 12-17-2015, 08:03 AM   #1058
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Yes Sir, you are correct. Most dont run the rear battery positioner.
Thanks. I'll follow that advice.

Anybody running the battery lengthwise? Seems like that'd be a more viable option with the new design's more rearward bias.
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Old 12-17-2015, 09:37 AM   #1059
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Originally Posted by Davidka View Post
Thanks. I'll follow that advice.

Anybody running the battery lengthwise? Seems like that'd be a more viable option with the new design's more rearward bias.
I think that may be detrimental depending on the surface, Getting the weight to transfer properly was what made the 2.0 twitchy, running broadside would settle the car down. Everyone has a different driving style, you would put more weight toward the front wheels I would think and get that transfer during braking and possibly make the rear end slide more.
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Old 12-17-2015, 09:53 AM   #1060
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Originally Posted by Rabidtrout View Post
Well, after some careful consideration and some advice here. I picked up the 3.0. I had been going back and forth on it for quite some time. Saw that they had one in my LHS.. I let it sit there for about a week before I pulled the trigger. Went in to the weekly club race and it was still there, so as fate would have it, I grabbed it.

Took me the better part of two nights to put together. Wasn't setting any records and it was my first TLR kit that I have put together, so I wanted to take my time. What a great build that was. The fit and finish was unlike anything else I have had my hands on.

Ran it last night for the first time. Box stock with box setup, on my outdoor clay track, it was quite the car. It just wanted to be pushed. I am pretty sure that I was beating my lap times that I was used to with my B4.2, I know I could push this car waaaay harder than I could my B4. I am by NO means the best driver out there, but I feel like I am getting better and with this car, it will make me a better driver overall. It just went wherever I wanted it to go. Only really wrecked once. Front straight jump. Nose in the sky. Landed on the back right wheel. Was just waiting for the snap sound. NOTHING.. Just blipped the trigger and off it went.. I couldn't believe it.

I would like to thank Frank Root and the entire community here for selling me on this car. Franks support and presence here are one of the main reasons I was so interested in this car. This level of support has been unheard of from any of the other manufacturers. This car is amazing and I can't wait to get some more wheel time with this thing.. Good thing i'm off work all next week!
So glad you are enjoying your experience with the 22 3.0. This is what we hope to hear with every release, and what we work so hard for .

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Originally Posted by Davidka View Post
Thanks. I'll follow that advice.

Anybody running the battery lengthwise? Seems like that'd be a more viable option with the new design's more rearward bias.
I haven't seen many yet, but I am sure that will come as guys have more time to tune.
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Old 12-17-2015, 12:48 PM   #1061
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Hi all,
For battery position, are most of you omitting the rear adjustable brace on the battery hold-down strap in favor of a foam block between the battery and waterfall? I am finding the rear most position with the brace in place still results in the battery being ~15mm from the waterfall and I'm seeing setups calling for 5mm from waterfall.

Also, build tip: I found several of the screw holes into plastic very tight, ie. screw squeaking as I tightened it. I found a dab of the black grease to be helpful with these. It's not something I've done often before.

Looking forward to running it. I'm starting with a modified kit setup that emulates the Dustin Evans setup on the site, since that was run at my regular track.
Hello all, this is my first post here.

I have been using Velcro to mount my batteries, and it seems to work good. I line the bottom of the chassis with the self adhesive "fuzzy" velcro, and put the self adhesive "prickly" velcro on the bottom of my batteries. This allows me to easily adjust the position of the battery as needed.

I have been running my TLR 22T 2.0 and B5M this way for about half a year. Early on I had a battery pop lose once, and figured out that I need to push and wiggle the battery around a bit to get a good lock on the velco, since then never had a problem.

When I get the electronics for my new TLR 22 3.0 I will try to post a picture.

By the way, I used this type of velcro from amazon.com:
VELCRO - Industrial Strength Low Profile - 10' x 1" Tape
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Old 12-18-2015, 07:14 AM   #1062
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Can someone explain these adjustments in laymen terms. I've been browsing around and they're all over the place (2mm - 0mm, 1mm - 1mm, and 0mm - 2mm). Not the 3.0 specifically but all 22 platforms. Thanks

Last edited by Matt M.; 03-11-2017 at 03:28 AM.
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Old 12-18-2015, 07:32 AM   #1063
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Can someone explain these adjustments in laymen terms. I've been browsing around and they're all over the place (2mm - 0mm, 1mm - 1mm, and 0mm - 2mm). Not the 3.0 specifically but all 22 platforms. Thanks
The 1mm spacers on the steering spindle allow for an axle height adjustment independent of suspension sag. This can add or take away steering. The height of the steering ball stud should be adjusted the same amount, at the same time as to not disrupt ackerman setting. Raising the spindle (lowering the front of the car) usually results in more aggressive steering. Lowering it (raising the front), usually the opposite.

The ball stud height on the steering block is to adjust roll center. It is generally a smaller adjustment than changing the upper link length. Most cars have a ball stud height adjustment on the inner block, not the caster blocks. The 22 can be adjusted on both/either end of the link.
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Old 12-18-2015, 09:15 AM   #1064
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Does anyone know the part number for the slipper pads for the 70 TLR spur?
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Old 12-18-2015, 09:21 AM   #1065
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Does anyone know the part number for the slipper pads for the 70 TLR spur?
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