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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 12-15-2015, 06:47 PM   #1036
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Might get one.. anyone running it on stock 17.5? Most I see at my track are mods and looks awsome..
I am running it in stock because I left my 2.0 for mod. I couldn't be happier with how this thing performs. The three gear tranny was the deciding factor for me. The four gear in mod doesn't bother me but I didn't like it in stock. I am running the box setup with the shock oil from the box on all for corners. The only change I made was moved the rear inner ball studs up 1mm. After having 2 race days on the car, I don't really want to change anything on it. That is racing at my local track. I might need to tune it if I go somewhere else with bigger features or whatever but for local clubbing it is perfect for me. The kit gearing chart for the 17.5 was spot on too. Put that on and it came to life. Before I was too tall but now its money.
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Old 12-15-2015, 07:29 PM   #1037
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Originally Posted by lyork View Post
Swap A and C and see what happens
Lol I know exactly what would happen there!

Anyhow figured it out it was my motor. Swapped it out with another and no issues. Guess I'm running it mod for a weekend until my sensor board gets here. Eh well! Ready to drive his thing! 3 more days!
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Old 12-16-2015, 09:13 AM   #1038
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The fronts springs are xgs00x where x is the final number depending on which one you want. So the gold is xgs003.

The rear springs are XGS01X where x is the final number depending on which one you want.

Hope that made sense.

Thank you sir. Seems like the Front Gold that many are running are significantly stiffer than the stock Low Frequency Reds.
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Old 12-16-2015, 09:21 AM   #1039
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stock Low Frequency Reds.
My kit came with Silver fronts, which I believe is the spec they should all have out of the box.
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Old 12-16-2015, 09:30 AM   #1040
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According to the Kit set up in the manual it comes with low frequency reds. I do not have the car yet to check on what it actually comes with.
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:13 AM   #1041
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Coming from a 22 2.0 13.5 running in rear motor and shorty lipo running on a low traction outdoor track.
Anyway with the 3.0 to have the rear traction that my old RM 2.0 had? Got one day of practice before the track got closed for the winter and the 3.0 had way less traction than my old 2.0 had. Ideas?
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:24 AM   #1042
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According to the Kit set up in the manual it comes with low frequency reds. I do not have the car yet to check on what it actually comes with.
The setup sheet in the manual is wrong. They made a last minute change to the kit. The current kit setup is listed on the TLR website.
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:32 AM   #1043
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According to the Kit set up in the manual it comes with low frequency reds. I do not have the car yet to check on what it actually comes with.
I read back somewhere here that a change was made on the last minute to silvers from reds. It's not reflected on the manual though.
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:51 AM   #1044
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Originally Posted by Sandfreak View Post
Coming from a 22 2.0 13.5 running in rear motor and shorty lipo running on a low traction outdoor track.
Anyway with the 3.0 to have the rear traction that my old RM 2.0 had? Got one day of practice before the track got closed for the winter and the 3.0 had way less traction than my old 2.0 had. Ideas?
This is one of the reasons I'm skeptical about buying this buggy for my needs... mid motor may be all the rage, but the two tracks I race at are still true dirt off-road tracks where RM configurations are prevalent. Goose bumps, flip outs, endures and other small to medium size pin tires abound...

A few thoughts though: did you try with the batt all the way back, the 4 -gear transmission, lower roll center and softening suspension?
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:54 AM   #1045
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Originally Posted by Sandfreak View Post
Coming from a 22 2.0 13.5 running in rear motor and shorty lipo running on a low traction outdoor track.
Anyway with the 3.0 to have the rear traction that my old RM 2.0 had? Got one day of practice before the track got closed for the winter and the 3.0 had way less traction than my old 2.0 had. Ideas?
Yes as already mentioned 4 gear tranny option sounds good for you. Also move the hubs forward. Put in the optional axle spacers. The 3.0 is capable of great rear bite but you will want to work with the setup. There are plenty of tuning options with this kit.
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Old 12-16-2015, 11:00 AM   #1046
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Anyone else also annoyed by that pesky M2x6mm screw (TLR5960) which requires a 0.05" bit on the rear pivot block (TLR234054)?

I'm not a fan of SAE hardware so I was fortunate to find a spare screw with a 1.5mm bit that seems to work much better for me, no need to carry 2 different sets of tools in my pit box now

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Old 12-16-2015, 12:03 PM   #1047
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Originally Posted by billdelong View Post
Anyone else also annoyed by that pesky M2x6mm screw (TLR5960) which requires a 0.05" bit on the rear pivot block (TLR234054)?

I'm not a fan of SAE hardware so I was fortunate to find a spare screw with a 1.5mm bit that seems to work much better for me, no need to carry 2 different sets of tools in my pit box now

Although a .050" hex driver does fit the 2x6mm screw, the proper size driver to use is actually a 1.3mm.
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Old 12-16-2015, 12:15 PM   #1048
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yeah I hate that screw.
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Old 12-16-2015, 12:24 PM   #1049
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Originally Posted by Sandfreak View Post
Coming from a 22 2.0 13.5 running in rear motor and shorty lipo running on a low traction outdoor track.
Anyway with the 3.0 to have the rear traction that my old RM 2.0 had? Got one day of practice before the track got closed for the winter and the 3.0 had way less traction than my old 2.0 had. Ideas?
I ran a B5M for an entire season on a very slick indoor and outdoor track. Our track gets hard packed and has a high sand content. I used to bring two cars to the track every week. My B5 and my B5M just to see which was better. Rear or mid motor. probably 8 out of 10 times my mid motor car was better. Maybe it just suited my driving style. That being said, I only have one practice day on my 22 3.0 and it is as good if not better than my B5M and I have spent over a year tuning it. And the 3.0 is setup right out of the box. On our track, it seems to be more about tire choice. I run M3 blockades in the rear with white foam, and hole shot 2.0's in the front with white foam. Also look at the Duratrax Shotgun C3 rear tire, and run your battery all the way back.
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Old 12-16-2015, 12:31 PM   #1050
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I was about to re-tap the threads for a 3mm bit and countersink the chassis, but I was lucky to find a set of M2x6 screws lying around... now on with the build...

BTW, all the plastic on this kit is top notch, haven't stripped any plastic using my trusty 4.8V Harbor Freight cordless drill. It's rather pathetic as a drill but absolutely perfect for driving screws into plastic without risk of stripping threads
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