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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 12-03-2015, 08:20 AM   #661
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Anyone know this answer?
Having just completed that section last night I think I can answer this one. The strap is mounted at the rear to the waterfall and is a fixed mount, no up or down adjustment available. The front goes into two fixed plastic pins that have no adjustment. To use a shorter lipo you are going to need to implement some foam on top of the battery to keep it in place. TLR could release a new waterfall and forward pins but I doubt they would bother. Not sure if the sliding lockers would engage a shorter battery to keep movement of the battery in the tray, gonna have to try with your short lipo and report back.
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Old 12-03-2015, 08:22 AM   #662
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Having just completed that section last night I think I can answer this one. The strap is mounted at the rear to the waterfall and is a fixed mount, no up or down adjustment available. The front goes into two fixed plastic pins that have no adjustment. To use a shorter lipo you are going to need to implement some foam on top of the battery to keep it in place. TLR could release a new waterfall and forward pins but I doubt they would bother.
I think he is referring to the sliders that hold the position of the pack...how far down toward the chassis do they extend? Will it hold a thin shorty front to back? I'd answer but my kit doesn't get here til tonight.
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Old 12-03-2015, 08:25 AM   #663
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I think he is referring to the sliders that hold the position of the pack...how far down toward the chassis do they extend? Will it hold a thin shorty front to back? I'd answer but my kit doesn't get here til tonight.
Yeah, I had edited my post while you were posting yours. The plastic pieces extend down 8 mm from the battery door. There are a lot of options to extend them down further, a couple plastic spacers and some longer screws or just cut and drill some newer plastic pieces. The trouble is a really short battery is going to have that barn door hanging at an angle, the forward holder will engage no problem but the rear one may need some work to engage the edge of the lipo. Not an insurmountable task to make it work.
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Old 12-03-2015, 08:26 AM   #664
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If it doesn't reach down far enough put ballstud washers between the strap and stopper until it reaches.
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Old 12-03-2015, 09:31 AM   #665
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What mod motors are the best. Looking to get an 8.5 but have no clue on what to run.... Please help I just picked up a 3.0 yesterday.
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Old 12-03-2015, 09:53 AM   #666
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So I decided to take the long route and upgrade my 2.0 to the 3.0 by ordering the parts listed in the first post. The front A-arms came with the shoulder screws. It looks like the trailing screw is not sized appropriately for the a-arm mold. At first I thought maybe the a-arm package was supposed to include shorter ones, but then I went through my 22-4 spare parts and found a set of the shoulder screws listed in the conversion parts list and they are the same length. Check out the attached pictures.

I cracked one of the caster blocks by not noticing this as I tightened the screws. Just a warning that the trailing shoulder screw should not be tightened all the way down.
Those king pin screws don't need to be tightened down super tight. When they feel snugs, the shoulder has 'stopped' on the caster block. In the photo, you can see how the screw was tightened enough to indent the plastic with the shoulder of the screws.

On the front of the block, there is actually a counter bore so the shoulder of the screw can go into the caster block some for wheel clearance, etc.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrLean View Post
Anyone know this answer?
There is nothing designed in to change the height of the battery strap. Ultimately, you want to run the highest capacity battery as you can at minimum weight, since a larger capacity battery will improve your voltage throughout a run. Since the 3.0 is pretty light, it should be VERY easy to get under minimum with a standard size shorty pack, and if I was going to race stock... I would try to run a brick pack as close to minimum weight as possible.

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What mod motors are the best. Looking to get an 8.5 but have no clue on what to run.... Please help I just picked up a 3.0 yesterday.
I really like the Orion motors, I don't think you can get better although they do cost a little more. I'd probably get a 7.5T myself.
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Old 12-03-2015, 09:59 AM   #667
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Those king pin screws don't need to be tightened down super tight. When they feel snugs, the shoulder has 'stopped' on the caster block. In the photo, you can see how the screw was tightened enough to indent the plastic with the shoulder of the screws.

On the front of the block, there is actually a counter bore so the shoulder of the screw can go into the caster block some for wheel clearance, etc.



There is nothing designed in to change the height of the battery strap. Ultimately, you want to run the highest capacity battery as you can at minimum weight, since a larger capacity battery will improve your voltage throughout a run. Since the 3.0 is pretty light, it should be VERY easy to get under minimum with a standard size shorty pack, and if I was going to race stock... I would try to run a brick pack as close to minimum weight as possible.



I really like the Orion motors, I don't think you can get better although they do cost a little more. I'd probably get a 7.5T myself.
Thanks
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Old 12-03-2015, 10:28 AM   #668
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Cross my fingers that my wife bought me a 3.0 for christmas, even though she demands that she is not buying me one. With that said what color springs come with the kit?
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Old 12-03-2015, 10:35 AM   #669
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Cross my fingers that my wife bought me a 3.0 for christmas, even though she demands that she is not buying me one. With that said what color springs come with the kit?
Silver/Yellow
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Old 12-03-2015, 11:12 AM   #670
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need to come up with a new paint job
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Old 12-03-2015, 12:25 PM   #671
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I got my car built last night it went together really smoothly, im very happy that tlr included all the pills and ballstud mount spacers in the kit. The new rear end design is fantastic. I like the car already and i haven't even gotten on the track yet. I have got to buy a spring set and new oils because its testing time.

I was in a hurry to paint the body while i was building, i forgot the window masks so now they are stuck to the outside while i wait for a new body
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Old 12-03-2015, 12:28 PM   #672
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Looks like JConcepts will have something the end of December or January. No idea on any others.

Just make sure you put your headlights in it.
Custom headlight bracket from the 2.0 will fit. I'll have to post a photo of it sometime. It mounts on the front camber link holes replacing the 2mm ball stud washers.
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Old 12-03-2015, 01:25 PM   #673
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Is the 22 2.0 rear aluminum hex a direct fit.?
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Old 12-03-2015, 01:25 PM   #674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
There is nothing designed in to change the height of the battery strap. Ultimately, you want to run the highest capacity battery as you can at minimum weight, since a larger capacity battery will improve your voltage throughout a run. Since the 3.0 is pretty light, it should be VERY easy to get under minimum with a standard size shorty pack, and if I was going to race stock... I would try to run a brick pack as close to minimum weight as possible.
Ok, so I just went back and threw a light weight 2s LiPo in 3.0 and it fit. The plastic parts that stick down from the battery are just long enough to provide some support to keep the battery in place. Obviously, you'll still need to put a foam spacer on the the brace to help keep everything tight. I also weighed my car at 1508g. This is with the 1mm axle spacer and the 22-4 front inner hinge pins.
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Old 12-03-2015, 01:26 PM   #675
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Is the 22 2.0 rear aluminum hex a direct fit.?
Yes they are!
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