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Old 08-23-2016, 10:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 07-27-2016, 06:39 PM   #3271
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Ask any AE guy how much they have in their car after they owned the car for a few months. I find TLR cars to have a really good design aspect to them that they require near zero aftermarket support.
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Old 07-27-2016, 07:04 PM   #3272
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I have $20 into my b6d......
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Old 07-27-2016, 07:21 PM   #3273
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
I have $20 into my b6d......
So you have the aluminum D block... Your telling me you haven't bought kashimas, aluminum rear hubs, carbon battery brace, titanium pieces or any of the weights? Even if you carried them over from the b5m, you still bought them.
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Old 07-27-2016, 07:29 PM   #3274
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Nope....
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Old 07-27-2016, 08:01 PM   #3275
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Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post

Those are the steel ones. I was wondering about aluminum ones.
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Old 07-27-2016, 08:14 PM   #3276
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Ask any AE guy how much they have in their car after they owned the car for a few months. I find TLR cars to have a really good design aspect to them that they require near zero aftermarket support.
Yeah seriously I have probably an additional 50-75% of the kit price in hop ups on my B5MFL. I have nothing on my 3.0 except different rear springs...
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Old 07-28-2016, 12:23 AM   #3277
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Originally Posted by dbracn View Post
Just wondering if the exotek conversion is similar to the tlr dirt laydown? Or is it closer to the tlr carpet laydown?
Same diff height as the dirt car. Its near identical except the exotek uses regular sized idler gears vs the big one on the tlr conversion
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Old 07-28-2016, 12:25 AM   #3278
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Originally Posted by Matt M. View Post
if you have a 2.0, i dont think it would be much to convert it to a 3.0laydown...side gaurds, front arms, rear arms, shocktower etc...and of course the laydown kit...
Thats exactly what i did with my 2.0
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Old 07-28-2016, 07:33 AM   #3279
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Yeah the car plus the laydown conversion is pricey for sure. But now they have the dirt conversion laydown so that's another 80 bucks on top of the car and conversion. I did go ahead and get all of it. Why because I like the 3.0. Haven't ran it yet in laydown. I also bought a b6d with the laydown conversion. I'm gonna test them back to back this weekend. But I will say the 3.0 to me anyways is higher quality car. I'm sure tlr will listen and offer a chassis that fits every configuration. I guess my biggest complaint is the cost of the dirt laydown price. 80 bucks seems high for a motor plate and a gear box
The $80 price is because the case is full machined, and not molded. Unfortunately, it was the only way to get a solution to market as quickly as we did.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jonski View Post
Those are the steel ones. I was wondering about aluminum ones.
So, no aluminum ones yet...
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Old 07-28-2016, 10:50 AM   #3280
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Originally Posted by jonski View Post
Those are the steel ones. I was wondering about aluminum ones.
Not sure why you would want the aluminum ones? The weight of the car is so low now the axles would put it under weight. With the weight of my car at 1501gms I would prefer a strong steel axle.
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Old 07-28-2016, 11:18 AM   #3281
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Not sure why you would want the aluminum ones? The weight of the car is so low now the axles would put it under weight. With the weight of my car at 1501gms I would prefer a strong steel axle.
For spec classes, rotating mass is the best kind of weight savings.
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Old 07-28-2016, 10:17 PM   #3282
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Originally Posted by T Rogers View Post
i bought 2 3.0s at $330 a piece 4 months ago. now they come out with the laydown kit for another $200 making the kit $530 befor puting in electronics. Associated kit is $309 and you can change the transmissions out very cheap. Why couldnt losi make the laydown transmission work on the kit chassis? Time to go back to associated
You don't NEED the laydown car. I have been laying down faster laps and overall times with a standard car than all other laydown cars at my local track.

While I understand that the conversion is pricey, the amount you DO get in it is pretty substantial. In my non-engineering opinion, having a chassis made for one purpose is better than one made for multiple. You have to give something up there from a design and structure standpoint. You get aluminum hubs that are designed with a same height offset diff to make sure the roll centers are correct. You get a brass weight, a body, aluminum idler, 2 front wings and all hardware to make it happen.

Yes it is expensive, but in my opinion, it is the proper way to go towards a car geared for laydown friendly surfaces.
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Old 07-29-2016, 09:16 AM   #3283
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I removed some stuff. If the affected parties want to know why pm me.

Now back to the original programming.
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Old 07-29-2016, 09:42 AM   #3284
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Kraig you are so super :P
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Old 07-29-2016, 01:06 PM   #3285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
For spec classes, rotating mass is the best kind of weight savings.
That's the only reason...and I want TLR aluminum 67mm driveshafts because I don't want to put the MIP system on my car.
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