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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 04-19-2016, 05:02 PM   #2641
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i saw may now for the lay down kits?
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Old 04-19-2016, 05:58 PM   #2642
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Old 04-19-2016, 07:24 PM   #2643
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Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
The stock driveshafts are 66mm. The 67mm driveshafts push the pin 1mm further into the outdrives and eliminate any possibility of the driveshafts popping out of the outdrives.
Does this result in a different effect than provided by the 1mm option spacer?
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Old 04-19-2016, 07:35 PM   #2644
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Originally Posted by Frank Root View Post
The stock driveshafts are 66mm. The 67mm driveshafts push the pin 1mm further into the outdrives and eliminate any possibility of the driveshafts popping out of the outdrives.

I assume you'd run these without the optional 1 mm spacer on the axle then.

Will this be a running change to the kit, or will it stay with the 66 mm?

Do you recommend the 66 or 67 mm for the laydown conversion?

Thanks as always, Frank!
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Old 04-19-2016, 10:35 PM   #2645
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Frank....I finally got a chance to run my 3.0 at our first club race of the season. The car felt good. Great job by the TLR team on this one. I have built the car to the manual specs, is there any suggestions you may have to make it even better.....we run on mixed carpet over hard smooth packed clay/dirt with only 6 to 8 inch jumps and a couple banked turns....we have a 1 - 2 degree negative banked sweeper leading to our 120' straight.

Thanks for any advice
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Old 04-20-2016, 05:42 AM   #2646
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Originally Posted by Shaun B22 View Post
Frank....I finally got a chance to run my 3.0 at our first club race of the season. The car felt good. Great job by the TLR team on this one. I have built the car to the manual specs, is there any suggestions you may have to make it even better.....we run on mixed carpet over hard smooth packed clay/dirt with only 6 to 8 inch jumps and a couple banked turns....we have a 1 - 2 degree negative banked sweeper leading to our 120' straight.

Thanks for any advice
the 3.0 isnt the best carpet car because of the most rearward motor tranny design.

but all of these parts will tremendously transform your car"
- laydown trans kit (puts the weight low and forward for front traction)
- alum rear hubs
- stiffer rear spring, softer front
- alum front camber block
- 19mm ride height
- remove ball studs from the steering spindles, as to eliminate the bump steer and allow for some tighter steering on carpet
- serpent SRX2 gear diff with 2 packs of kyosho diff shims to shim it to a perfect fit
- CF front shock tower
- alum servo mounts
- alum steering rack

all of this stuff will help stiffen up the car and increase steering and preceision you need on carpet, plus it gets the weight more on the front wheels because you have plenty of forward bite, you need steering.

the car pushes a lot unless you set it up for carpet.

this is the exact reason i sold my 3.0 and got a XRAY XB2 CE because it comes stock ready to go for carpet, and with the 3.0 i would have to put more money into it than buying the XRAY kit. the TLR is still my favorite 2wd clay car, but i haven't tried the XRAY XB2 DE yet so who knows.
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Old 04-20-2016, 05:46 AM   #2647
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Davidka & Callaway- Are you guys using the optional spacer from the 2.0 kit on the 3.0? I just double checked my manual and it looks like that spacer was deleted from the 3.0 kit. I built mine per the manual and haven't had any problems, but am always curious what others are doing.

Thanks.

-W
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Old 04-20-2016, 06:01 AM   #2648
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Originally Posted by Wanderer77 View Post
Davidka & Callaway- Are you guys using the optional spacer from the 2.0 kit on the 3.0? I just double checked my manual and it looks like that spacer was deleted from the 3.0 kit. I built mine per the manual and haven't had any problems, but am always curious what others are doing.

Thanks.

-W
That spacer should be in your tuning parts bag. I don't think the manual 'tells' you to install it but it's there.
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Old 04-20-2016, 06:02 AM   #2649
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Originally Posted by Wanderer77 View Post
Davidka & Callaway- Are you guys using the optional spacer from the 2.0 kit on the 3.0? I just double checked my manual and it looks like that spacer was deleted from the 3.0 kit. I built mine per the manual and haven't had any problems, but am always curious what others are doing.

Thanks.

-W
I'm using the spacer. I believe it was in the option parts bag. I've got it on mine and my son's. Just bought spare driveshafts last month... Too bad the 67 mm weren't out yet!
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Old 04-20-2016, 06:28 AM   #2650
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Thanks Matt and Callaway!

-W
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Old 04-20-2016, 08:55 AM   #2651
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davidka View Post
Does this result in a different effect than provided by the 1mm option spacer?
Yes, moving the CVA joint further in away from the hub has a big effect on handling. Moving the CVA pin in the outdrive 1mm is a much smaller change.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Callaway View Post
I assume you'd run these without the optional 1 mm spacer on the axle then.

Will this be a running change to the kit, or will it stay with the 66 mm?

Do you recommend the 66 or 67 mm for the laydown conversion?

Thanks as always, Frank!
You can run with or without the 1mm spacer using the 67mm driveshaft, no problem. It will also be a running change to the kit. I will be running 67mm driveshafts on all of my 2wd cars, laydown, standard, etc.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaun B22 View Post
Frank....I finally got a chance to run my 3.0 at our first club race of the season. The car felt good. Great job by the TLR team on this one. I have built the car to the manual specs, is there any suggestions you may have to make it even better.....we run on mixed carpet over hard smooth packed clay/dirt with only 6 to 8 inch jumps and a couple banked turns....we have a 1 - 2 degree negative banked sweeper leading to our 120' straight.

Thanks for any advice
I'd try my setup from Reedy Race.

http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...2016-01-24.pdf
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Old 04-20-2016, 09:00 AM   #2652
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thanks Frank.

I will try your setup tonight as I think we are having open practice.
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Old 04-20-2016, 01:05 PM   #2653
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Frank- when would be the best time to run the high roll center blocks and what can we expect from it? Is this best suited for slicks?
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Old 04-20-2016, 01:47 PM   #2654
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Frank- when would be the best time to run the high roll center blocks and what can we expect from it? Is this best suited for slicks?
It takes away dog bone plunge. Works best for really bumpy tracks, or tracks with really high grip.
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Old 04-20-2016, 02:33 PM   #2655
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It takes away dog bone plunge. Works best for really bumpy tracks, or tracks with really high grip.
Thanks
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