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Old 08-23-2016, 10:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 03-13-2016, 07:44 AM   #2341
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Any chance of TLR selling the low frequency springs seperately? I would like to try the white rear spring , would the original 22 springs ( non low frequency ) be the same rate? Any other options that is similar to the white low frequency spring ?
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Old 03-13-2016, 08:57 AM   #2342
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Originally Posted by EJF View Post
Any chance of TLR selling the low frequency springs seperately?
Nope! They will tell you, you need the other springs too. TLR is pretty awesome, but this is one thing I don't agree with.
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Old 03-13-2016, 09:42 AM   #2343
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Fwiw, many other brand's springs are "low frequency" too and if you go by spring rate, you can approximate just about any setup. I ran my RM car with AE springs and they got me where I wanted to go. Many of the TLR drivers are using the very expensive Kyosho springs too. The TLR LF springs are so close in rate from one to the next, you'd have a hard time detecting the difference without jumping 2-3 steps, anyway.
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Old 03-14-2016, 02:12 AM   #2344
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Concerning tire and wheel size......what are the majority of you using? The standard kit 2.2" or the newer 2.4" EVO type tires and wheels?
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Old 03-14-2016, 02:26 AM   #2345
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Default Hello from NZ

Hello from all the way down in New Zealand! I've been running the 3.0 for just over a month now and have got it dialed! Coming from the 2.0 i could get it going fast but it was always a bit edgy and unpredictable. The 3.0 has definitely calmed things down.
My local club runs on an extremely high grip carpet and the other club we visit is a moderately high grip Astro turf. I must say, before I even ran the car I was asking about the carpet gearbox but now I'm not even so sure it's needed.
Here's a quick run down on setup.
Like everyone I've read on here I'm running yellow mini pins on the rear but on the front the best tyre we've found by far is the 6mik(unsure on name of pattern).
Front:
shocks 1.6x2 40wt standard spring (silver?)
Long Vla, long top arm, 2mm spacer each end.
Rear
shocks 1.7x2 35wt yellow.
Short wheelbase.
TLR gear diff, 2 gear 7k.
Rest of the car is basically kit setup
Car still has a slight on power push I'm trying to iorn out but I did set the fastest lap of the night so it can't really be that bad and with a 0.26 consistency in the 5min final I'm loving how forgiving it is.
Loving being back in front of the yokomos and s-works that have been leading the show here
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Old 03-14-2016, 02:54 AM   #2346
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Old 03-14-2016, 03:48 AM   #2347
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davidka View Post
Your ball cups must be shot. If you're going to go through the trouble of punching/drilling, do it to new ball cups. Race weekend is too short for preventable DNF's.

Different question: Do AE's ball ends fit TLR'S ball-studs?
i have tried this and no the b5 series AE ball cups don't fit. you need to change the stud and the cup. and the 10.2 series ball cups were useless so new tlr ones with access holes is gonna be the way to go. thanks
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Old 03-14-2016, 05:54 AM   #2348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richards View Post
Concerning tire and wheel size......what are the majority of you using? The standard kit 2.2" or the newer 2.4" EVO type tires and wheels?
most of the pro drivers that I've talked to seem to be going with the 2.2" wheels for now... in my testing I seem to get better results with the 2.4" wheels and have stock piled on a bunch of 2.4" tires that were discontinued from ProLine... apparently they have some improvements that need to be made to the sidewalls. I've been racing stock on a track which is sprayed with what feels like velcro, we get amazing traction but at the expense of wearing the tires by the end of each race day, so I'm not experiencing any problems with the sidewalls that others are reporting.

Here's my prep method for 2.4":

Pull foam inserts and rinse chalky residue with simple green, also scrub tires with simple green inside and out, rinse and blow dry with air compressor. Use alcohol swab to degrease the bead of each wheel and I use AKA tire glue with a second pass by dragging the straw into the corner between the rubber and wheel to form an extra layer of bonding agent and I've yet to break a bead within a full day of racing stock.

The 2.4" foams tend to be thinner (lower profile) and have less tendency to roll over in tight corners. We have a step down at my track where the 2.2" tires tend to make my car a little squirrely as I accelerate into the straight from the step down in the middle of a corner, and I don't have that problem with the 2.4" tires running same brand, tread and compound.
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Old 03-14-2016, 07:21 AM   #2349
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Put all the spacers on top drop the spindle....
Quote:
Originally Posted by rally stylz View Post
Hello from all the way down in New Zealand! I've been running the 3.0 for just over a month now and have got it dialed! Coming from the 2.0 i could get it going fast but it was always a bit edgy and unpredictable. The 3.0 has definitely calmed things down.
My local club runs on an extremely high grip carpet and the other club we visit is a moderately high grip Astro turf. I must say, before I even ran the car I was asking about the carpet gearbox but now I'm not even so sure it's needed.
Here's a quick run down on setup.
Like everyone I've read on here I'm running yellow mini pins on the rear but on the front the best tyre we've found by far is the 6mik(unsure on name of pattern).
Front:
shocks 1.6x2 40wt standard spring (silver?)
Long Vla, long top arm, 2mm spacer each end.
Rear
shocks 1.7x2 35wt yellow.
Short wheelbase.
TLR gear diff, 2 gear 7k.
Rest of the car is basically kit setup
Car still has a slight on power push I'm trying to iorn out but I did set the fastest lap of the night so it can't really be that bad and with a 0.26 consistency in the 5min final I'm loving how forgiving it is.
Loving being back in front of the yokomos and s-works that have been leading the show here
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Old 03-14-2016, 09:12 AM   #2350
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:
Quote:
Originally Posted by rally stylz View Post
Hello from all the way down in New Zealand! I've been running the 3.0 for just over a month now and have got it dialed! Coming from the 2.0 i could get it going fast but it was always a bit edgy and unpredictable. The 3.0 has definitely calmed things down.
My local club runs on an extremely high grip carpet and the other club we visit is a moderately high grip Astro turf. I must say, before I even ran the car I was asking about the carpet gearbox but now I'm not even so sure it's needed.
Here's a quick run down on setup.
Like everyone I've read on here I'm running yellow mini pins on the rear but on the front the best tyre we've found by far is the 6mik(unsure on name of pattern).
Front:
shocks 1.6x2 40wt standard spring (silver?)
Long Vla, long top arm, 2mm spacer each end.
Rear
shocks 1.7x2 35wt yellow.
Short wheelbase.
TLR gear diff, 2 gear 7k.
Rest of the car is basically kit setup
Car still has a slight on power push I'm trying to iorn out but I did set the fastest lap of the night so it can't really be that bad and with a 0.26 consistency in the 5min final I'm loving how forgiving it is.
Loving being back in front of the yokomos and s-works that have been leading the show here
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Old 03-14-2016, 11:03 AM   #2351
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommygun1 View Post
Nope! They will tell you, you need the other springs too. TLR is pretty awesome, but this is one thing I don't agree with.
If we did that, we'd only be able to offer White, Yellow, and Pink, and they'd be a lot more than $5 per pair. The only way to offer the full line up of springs, at a low enough value ($5/pr), is to sell them in sets.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cub86 View Post
Is anyone having terrible with ball cups popping constantly if you land slightly weird or brush a coping. Front and rear?
Nope, definitely hasn't been an issue. You should probably replace your current ball cups and you won't have issues.

Quote:
Originally Posted by boucher View Post
I remember seeing Maifield and Denney using B5 ballcups on their 22-4s at Reedy Race I think.
They used the angles steering AE ball cups on the inner rear camber link only to clear the shock from the turnbuckle with the arm/shock flip setup.
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Old 03-14-2016, 11:06 AM   #2352
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Originally Posted by Skeeter36 View Post
what was your ESC temp? if it is in the same range I would bump to 34 or 35 anything in the 140 range after 6 min is perfectly fine. I run mod but help a lot of the stock guys at my track get dialed in.
I know this is a little off topic (apologies) but would this same rule apply for different platforms (stock class)? I ask because I have a 22T built for a 17.5 stock class. I am running a HW Justock esc, Reds VX 17.5 @ 40* timing. I currently have it geared with the exotek slipper eliminator, 69t spur, 27t pinion. Heat hasn't been an issue to date.

If I understand the your concept:

If my motor isn't too hot and esc is cooler than my motor temps...I can still gear up?

Based on my electronic setup/package and gearing...is that the correct interpretation?
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Old 03-14-2016, 11:10 AM   #2353
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Has anyone installed the Exotek Racing TLR 22 3.0 Aluminum Steering Set (EXO1580)?

I guess i didn't pay attention to the way it operated with the stock steering system, but with the Exotek the bell cranks were sliding up and down on the posts.

After seeing this, i pulled it all apart, and thus lost a washer, can't reassemble until i get a replacement.

Is that normal operation?
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Old 03-14-2016, 12:05 PM   #2354
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What's everybody's average weight coming in at with the battery installed and no real fancy titanium screws or anything like that? Mine is right in the 1620g range and I'm thinking my Racers Edge shorty battery might be the main reason why it's so heavy.
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Old 03-14-2016, 12:15 PM   #2355
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Originally Posted by mserno75 View Post
What's everybody's average weight coming in at with the battery installed and no real fancy titanium screws or anything like that? Mine is right in the 1620g range and I'm thinking my Racers Edge shorty battery might be the main reason why it's so heavy.
I believe Franks was about 1560. Others have stated about the same for box stock and standard size servo, shorty battery, and ESC's such as the HW v3.1 or Orion R10.
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