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Old 08-23-2016, 10:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Last edit by: Matt Trimmings
Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 02-19-2016, 10:03 PM   #2116
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Originally Posted by Callaway View Post
I've thought about trying the Serpent gear diff, but do so far I've not had problems with the Losi one when using Kyosho o-rings. The stock black rings in the Losi kit will leak, but the Kyosho ones are fine so far. I've also started adding some green slime on them for good measure.
you got a part number for those orings?

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There are no problem parts on this car. There is a new camber link holder update. In a very busy region, I am not aware of any of the original ones breaking yet.
Agreed i havent seen any break either and there are about a dozen here locally. i am sure it happens but i dont think its a problem part.
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Old 02-19-2016, 11:53 PM   #2117
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whats the part number/supplier for the serpent diff? my 2.0 needs a new gear diff so thinking about this one? whats the benefit? (not leaking??)
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Old 02-20-2016, 07:46 AM   #2118
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Just dropped about $2,000 on a new setup. I'm really happy I went with the TLR because I already have the 22 SCT 2.0 and it just makes sense to have a more cohesive parts bin and took box. I was originally looking at the XB2, but was kind of turned off by the fact that (1) it's a new platform and (2) its updated every year which could be annoying and also the first release of a new platform might not be the best move as the second release might be a ton more refined and a better buy in the long run. Also parts availability isn't great and the need to have more things in my box is a downside. So here I am with the 3.0 and very happy about it.

I also needed a new radio because I had nerve damage and now have to use my left hand to steer. It's been hard but I'm now pretty much used to it and can drive just fine. Finally getting a left handed compatible transmitter instead of holding it flat lol.

It's going to be a mod buggy run on indoor carpet, and med-high bite clay, as well as an outdoor Astro track. I don't mind a slightly heavier buggy that turns and handles well, which is why this build will focus on beefing some things up and stiffening them up.

- TLR 22 3.0 kit

Electronics:
- KO Propo EX-2 w/ left handed expert grip and receiver
- Tekin RSX
- Trinity D4 7.5t
- Savox SC1258TG Black
- (2) Trinity RevTec 5000mah shorty

Exotek:
- Shock collar/perch (yellow)
- Servo mounts (black)
- Steering rack (yellow)
- Front camber block (yellow)
- Battery post/nut (black)
- CF shock tower (front)

TLR:
- Rear camber block
- HRC rear pivot
- HRC front pivot
- Aluminum LRC front pivot
- Ti-Cn front through pins
- Low freq front and rear spring kit
- Alum rear hubs
- Alum rear hexes
- Low profile wheel nuts

Other:
- Serpent SRX2 rear gear diff w/ Kyosho shims and updated o rings
- Lunsford super duty Ti turnbuckles w/ open ball cups
- JC front aero wing (narrow)
- Hitec 2x charger

Tires:
- Schumacher Mini pin 2 rears (blue) w medium inserts
- Schumacher Lowpro stagger cut front (yellow)
- JC Barcodes front and rear (gold)

Pics to come once I begin the build! Girlfriend doesn't know about this one so I haven't been able to go all out and build it as soon as I could.
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Old 02-20-2016, 08:06 AM   #2119
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What are people using for gearing in 13.5? All the setup sheets I see are 17.5 or 7.5. The manual suggests 70/25. I'm running a 4 gear and 70/25 won't mesh. I'm running 70/35 in 17.5 So I was guessing 28-30 it will be in a big wide open track. Anyway. Any thoughts or suggestions? I'm going to try 29 and hope for the best.

Last edited by greener74; 02-20-2016 at 11:00 AM.
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Old 02-20-2016, 12:28 PM   #2120
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try 72-75/28-29..thats were mines feels good at..
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Old 02-20-2016, 05:09 PM   #2121
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you got a part number for those orings?
Sorry I can't search for it right now, but try searching this thread. I posted it some time in the last few weeks.
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Old 02-20-2016, 06:32 PM   #2122
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Originally Posted by Callaway View Post
Sorry I can't search for it right now, but try searching this thread. I posted it some time in the last few weeks.
KYOORG05?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...oorg05/p166437
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Old 02-20-2016, 11:08 PM   #2123
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Your 4 broken ones may be 1/2 of all the incidents I've read about. There are at least 12 of these running regularly at my local track, a couple of them by sportsman drivers under the age of 10. The problem isn't the part, it may be the track (super-gigantic jump?).
No big jumps. I believe it's 3 mod breaks and one 17.5 break. Just freak crashes IMO but none the less they broke.
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Old 02-21-2016, 07:13 AM   #2124
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Huh.. Still haven't seen one break at our track. The shop has the news ones on the wall.
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Old 02-21-2016, 12:33 PM   #2125
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I'm building my kit and everything is going smoothly. I haven't run into any issues whatsoever with the plastics or stripping anything. It's actually all been going together fantastically, and everything seems to be of high quality. It's actually going together much easier than my TLR 22SCT 2.0

HOWEVER IM HAVING ONE PROBLEM...CAN ANYONE HELP?

- The rear arms are binding after tightening the rear shock tower. Before shaving them down I was wondering if anyone else experienced this? If so, do you have any tips on how to fix it? It's also more prevalent on the rear right arm.

Last edited by lyons238; 02-21-2016 at 02:08 PM.
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Old 02-21-2016, 01:34 PM   #2126
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i dont know which thread to post this in, so i am posting it here. how much better is the losi 3.0 vs the 1.0 and the 2.0?

is the 3.0 night and day better than the the 1.0? i am really interested in the 1.0 since it can be a rear motor and i think i could get it relatively inexpensively
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Old 02-21-2016, 02:06 PM   #2127
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On clay the 3.0 is way better, out of the box it is better than my 2.0 buggys that i put countless hours into setup
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Old 02-21-2016, 02:47 PM   #2128
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Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
I'm building my kit and everything is going smoothly. I haven't run into any issues whatsoever with the plastics or stripping anything. It's actually all been going together fantastically, and everything seems to be of high quality. It's actually going together much easier than my TLR 22SCT 2.0

HOWEVER IM HAVING ONE PROBLEM...CAN ANYONE HELP?

- The rear arms are binding after tightening the rear shock tower. Before shaving them down I was wondering if anyone else experienced this? If so, do you have any tips on how to fix it? It's also more prevalent on the rear right arm.
I would check the position and orientation of both your anti-squat inserts to be on safe side so it isn't having the front of a-arm going other way closer to the chassis, creating a bind, or something. Not sure.

Check the rear toe inserts orientation also, so all of these inserts properly match up with what is in the manual maybe?
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Old 02-22-2016, 12:52 AM   #2129
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What effect on steering does going to a standard ball stud with 1 mil spacer have over kit setup , low mount ball stud with 1/2 mil spacer on Ackerman

I would imagine it's more aggressive coming into corner but does it have any effect with on power push when coming out of corner

Last edited by Mdawson1962; 02-22-2016 at 01:53 AM.
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Old 02-22-2016, 09:46 AM   #2130
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Originally Posted by 4wd Racer View Post
I would check the position and orientation of both your anti-squat inserts to be on safe side so it isn't having the front of a-arm going other way closer to the chassis, creating a bind, or something. Not sure.

Check the rear toe inserts orientation also, so all of these inserts properly match up with what is in the manual maybe?
Also check the nuts on your rear hubs, if you crank them down it will cause the whole arm to bind up. They just need to be snug, I tighten them all the way down then back them off a 1/4 turn. Same with the front, if you crank down the king pin screws on the caster blocks it will bind up the whole arm.
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