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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

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Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 02-19-2016, 06:09 AM   #2101
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Ok, thank you. Any comment on those two problem ALU parts?

Also are you running a gear diff? I was looking at buying the SRX2 gear diff.
I've thought about trying the Serpent gear diff, but do so far I've not had problems with the Losi one when using Kyosho o-rings. The stock black rings in the Losi kit will leak, but the Kyosho ones are fine so far. I've also started adding some green slime on them for good measure.
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Old 02-19-2016, 06:18 AM   #2102
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FEW IMPORTANT QUESTIONS BEFORE ORDERING

1. Has TLR released updated rear hinge pin holder and camber blocks yet? I heard the original ones were breaking? If so how can I tell which version kit is which? Will hobby shops have the updated kit if available? Or will TLR replace with the updated parts if contacted?
Don't think there was ever an issue with hinge pin holder but new camber block is out there. I broke mine on Wed and hobby store had the new version. Don't think they will replace based on what comments I saw from Frank.
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Old 02-19-2016, 06:28 AM   #2103
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Dropped in the Serpent SRX4 gear diff last night. It seems like a very high-quality unit and went together without any drama. Very smooth operation.

I used 3 10x12x0.2 shims on each side and it fit in the TLR case very nicely.

Another thank you for those who offered up their wisdom on the topic. I can't wait to run it tonight!
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Old 02-19-2016, 06:54 AM   #2104
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Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
FEW IMPORTANT QUESTIONS BEFORE ORDERING

1. Has TLR released updated rear hinge pin holder and camber blocks yet? I heard the original ones were breaking? If so how can I tell which version kit is which? Will hobby shops have the updated kit if available? Or will TLR replace with the updated parts if contacted?

A friend of mine just picked up a 3.0 last week and it came with the updated pivot block.

2. I saw Dustin Evans had an "astro" edition where the motor/tranny was mounted lower and more forward. Will this be available to the public? I plan on running my car mostly on carpet/astro. Is the 3.0 a good car for this? I already have a 22SCT 2.0, so it makes sense to get the 3.0, but not if its not running well on carpet.
Get some Shumacher Stagger, Cut Stagger Slim, or Cut Stagger Low-Profiles for the front in yellow compound and some Schumacher Mini-Pin, Mini-Pin 2 out back in blue or yellow compound and you should be good to go.

I think the car is great on carpet. Compared to a friend's B5M, the 3.0 is faster while being more controllable and consistent. This is not factoring set up obviously.

Personally, I like the TLR because I think it a better-built car. I have a couple AE 5-series and there is a clear quality (and in some cases quality control) difference.
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Old 02-19-2016, 07:43 AM   #2105
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While waiting for the good CF panel to arrive, I tweaked the design of my chassis. All of the little issues in my g10 prototype have been fixed. I'm confident saying this is the final iteration of the design!

The new panel of CF showed up this week. The 2.5mm panel has a 3k plain weave outer layer on top of a quasi-isotropic uni-directional core. Good stuff for sure! It's so stiff I don't even need the upper side braces.

Upper side braces I'll probably never use. Certainly I over designed it the first time.
great work man! let me know when you decide to make a few extra chassis and how much
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Old 02-19-2016, 09:37 AM   #2106
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Ok, thank you. Any comment on those two problem ALU parts?
.
There are no problem parts on this car. There is a new camber link holder update. In a very busy region, I am not aware of any of the original ones breaking yet.
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Old 02-19-2016, 09:46 AM   #2107
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There are no problem parts on this car. There is a new camber link holder update. In a very busy region, I am not aware of any of the original ones breaking yet.
They break.....4 so far at my local track. It happens with every car on the first run. Team driver's don't wreck as much as regular guys Losi recognized it and addressed the problem. The only issue is if you mail order the part there's no way of knowing if you will get a new or old part.
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Old 02-19-2016, 12:29 PM   #2108
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Your 4 broken ones may be 1/2 of all the incidents I've read about. There are at least 12 of these running regularly at my local track, a couple of them by sportsman drivers under the age of 10. The problem isn't the part, it may be the track (super-gigantic jump?).
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Old 02-19-2016, 01:43 PM   #2109
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They break.....4 so far at my local track. It happens with every car on the first run. Team driver's don't wreck as much as regular guys Losi recognized it and addressed the problem. The only issue is if you mail order the part there's no way of knowing if you will get a new or old part.
We have seen several break here even a pro driver, they updated it because the rear balance was off
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Old 02-19-2016, 05:34 PM   #2110
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Just got my TLR 22 3.0 finished and am looking forward to testing it....
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Old 02-19-2016, 07:02 PM   #2111
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Just got my TLR 22 3.0 finished and am looking forward to testing it....
Love the xx-4 wheels!!!!
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Old 02-19-2016, 07:16 PM   #2112
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Love the xx-4 wheels!!!!
Something different from all the Dish Wheels, I would be happy if TLR would make them Again.....
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Old 02-19-2016, 08:53 PM   #2113
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Something different from all the Dish Wheels, I would be happy if TLR would make them Again.....
Same here but with Hex!!!
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Old 02-19-2016, 09:28 PM   #2114
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Got a question guys. I recently completed my buggy and I am new to the buggy racing scene. At our local track which is hard packed high bite the car handles fantastic box stock on 98% of the track. There is a long straight with a decent sweeper going into a 180 at the end that I'm having traction issues with. On power or off it's giving me issues. Should I just deal with it or sacrifice some handling overall to get the best average performance out of the car. And if I should change anything where should I start? Stiffer springs or thicker fluid in the front? I've moved the battery all over doesn't seem to make a difference.
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Old 02-19-2016, 09:48 PM   #2115
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Got a question guys. I recently completed my buggy and I am new to the buggy racing scene. At our local track which is hard packed high bite the car handles fantastic box stock on 98% of the track. There is a long straight with a decent sweeper going into a 180 at the end that I'm having traction issues with. On power or off it's giving me issues. Should I just deal with it or sacrifice some handling overall to get the best average performance out of the car. And if I should change anything where should I start? Stiffer springs or thicker fluid in the front? I've moved the battery all over doesn't seem to make a difference.
We've got the same feature at our current Norcal layout. For me I focused on dialing in the car on every other turn/feature on the track - and focused on driving a cleaner/faster line coming off the straights and into the left-hand sweeper/180*.

It took me a few broken front spindles for me to find the right line. I also found it really helpful for me to turn down my drag brake (from 17% to 5%). This allowed me to lift off the throttle and carry more speed while rolling faster through the sweeper and keeping more speed. My speed naturally scrubs itself as the sweeper becomes a decreasing radius turn.
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