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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

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Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 11-11-2015, 11:34 AM   #196
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Originally Posted by skrichter View Post
This is where I am a little confused. Facebook post mentions the new rear hex has a different offset.

"Rear CVA and Hub assembly. The 22 3.0 uses the 2.0 rear hub and CVA, with a new STD off-set molded hex for less rotating mass."

If that is the case, the old TLR alum rear hex is not right.

https://www.facebook.com/16771357659...type=3&theater
It is. On the 22 series, we've not had a molded hex that is the standard mounting and off-set, only aluminum. On the 22 1.0, we used the aluminum spacer, then wheel pin, then a thin plastic hex to accommodate XXX pin type wheels and the new hex wheels. On the 3.0, we molded a new hex to be the correct width without the the need for the aluminum spacer.

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Old 11-11-2015, 12:14 PM   #197
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Frank is correct. The std aluminum hex is same as the molded 3.0 hex.
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Old 11-11-2015, 12:21 PM   #198
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In a strange set of coincidence, I happen to own a set of std aluminum hexes even though I've never owned a 22.

So this would be like a $13 discount off a 3.0, right? :-)
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Old 11-11-2015, 01:11 PM   #199
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Go with the Orion Stock esc ($129-140), and a Reedy Mach 7.5 or 17.5 ($75-89)depending on your class. Youll love that esc, doesn't have all the features but you mostly likely wouldn't use them anyways.

Amain has both of those. If I remember right it a $129 and $89. Buy a chassis protector and use the $25off 250.
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I think the R10.1 is the best ESC out there, hands down. Best feel, looks great, easiest to setup/adjust, and most importantly - the best feel on throttle and brakes. For me, the ESC is one of the most important center pieces of car performance. The Orion motors are really nice, but I will say that motor performance (in mod at least) is really not too critical. You can always tune the gearing, motor timing, and ESC settings to get a motor to run right.
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Originally Posted by 68pontiac View Post
Check out the SMC RF-120 ESC and motor combo for $145. I know a few people who run them and really like the setup. I run Novak ESCs and SMC motors but I'm a bit concerned that my Pulse or GTB3 might not fit in this new ride. Novak stuff tends to be a bit on the large side.
Thanks guys for the responses, I appriciate you all taking the time. I will definatly take all these into consideration.
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Old 11-11-2015, 01:59 PM   #200
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Anyone have any videos of this thing on the track yet?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XkQ9K-XTelo
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Old 11-11-2015, 04:53 PM   #201
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Great to see the new car! It even has my son excited! A little off subject, so to speak, but, we are getting the 3.0 and kinda purging what we have as far as electronics go. We have used Novak products for years and what I have in my 2.0 right now is a GTB 2 (low profile heat sink) and a 8.5 Novak Balistic and if we are getting new cars I think we need to go all out and get new electronics also. Because of my OCD, I wanted to get the Orion R10.1 and an Orion motor becasue that is what the team uses BUT after seeing the price of these two items, I about feel over. I had to check and make sure it wasnt an 8th scale system, lol! Around $440 for an ESC and motor seems a bit prohibitive but I also don't want to be behind the 8 ball in this catagory. I always felt like I have been when it came to these things. Does any body have any suggestions on something a little less expensive or should I just bite the bullit and dive in? Thanks in advance.
Assuming you are running mod since you had a 8.5.

Tekin systems are GREAT and updatable with hotwire so you can keep your ESC current and up to date. One board tuning means it is still extremely Amain is making way for combos with Gen 3 motors so you can find good deals on combo's with Gen 2 motors.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...tt2441/p268928

Gen 2 RS ESC with Gen 3 motor is even less and should be here well before the car.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/rs-gen2-...em-p-tektt2738
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Old 11-11-2015, 05:13 PM   #202
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The one feature I really like on the Tekin RSX is the availability of 7.4V to the servo. Most HV servos have more speed and torque at 7.4. But that might not be as important to others.
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Old 11-11-2015, 05:23 PM   #203
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Default Tekin

I've raced Tekin for 7 years and have never had an issue other than my own stupidity(crossing wires). Agree with Casper, Tekin is awesome and the smart phone app makes adjusting the esc at the track as easy as it could possibly be. Data log on any given layout will tell you exactly what you need to do with gearing to get the most out of any motor your running. I prefer the RSX, braking feel is second to non and throttle response is exceptional.
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Old 11-11-2015, 06:15 PM   #204
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Assuming you are running mod since you had a 8.5.

Tekin systems are GREAT and updatable with hotwire so you can keep your ESC current and up to date. One board tuning means it is still extremely Amain is making way for combos with Gen 3 motors so you can find good deals on combo's with Gen 2 motors.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...tt2441/p268928

Gen 2 RS ESC with Gen 3 motor is even less and should be here well before the car.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/rs-gen2-...em-p-tektt2738
+1 for Tekin. Very reliable, great performance, and small!
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Old 11-11-2015, 11:18 PM   #205
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I've really disliked the Tekin's that I have tried. They kind of felt like an on/off switch. The Orion, Hobbywing, and SMC ESC's have all been worlds smoother IMO. The SMC is very affordable as is the HW. Orion is sort of over the top expensive but nice...
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Old 11-12-2015, 12:18 AM   #206
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I've really disliked the Tekin's that I have tried. They kind of felt like an on/off switch. The Orion, Hobbywing, and SMC ESC's have all been worlds smoother IMO. The SMC is very affordable as is the HW. Orion is sort of over the top expensive but nice...
I have both the RSX and a Reedy Black Box and I am not terribly impressed with the RSX. I do like the data logging features of the RSX, but hate having to lug my computer around to make any changes that I could easily make on the Reedy using the programming box.

I agree with your comment that the RSX is like a switch. I tried turning down the throttle minimum to ease the initial throttle, but then I was experiencing cogging issues.
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Old 11-12-2015, 12:21 AM   #207
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I found the Much More ESC almost undrivable for my style, the Tekin is smooth but even in blinky mode you need to get the settings right to be on par with a Blinky say Hobbywing with default settings.
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Old 11-12-2015, 06:41 AM   #208
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Since the front wheel offset was already proprietary, what was gained by switching from 10mm hex to 12mm hex?
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Old 11-12-2015, 06:42 AM   #209
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Originally Posted by Davidka View Post
Since the front wheel offset was already proprietary, what was gained by switching from 10mm hex to 12mm hex?
I believe there was a IFMAR proposed rule change that stated all wheels had to be 12mm hex.
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Old 11-12-2015, 07:01 AM   #210
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Originally Posted by Jpdanger View Post
I have both the RSX and a Reedy Black Box and I am not terribly impressed with the RSX. I do like the data logging features of the RSX, but hate having to lug my computer around to make any changes that I could easily make on the Reedy using the programming box.

I agree with your comment that the RSX is like a switch. I tried turning down the throttle minimum to ease the initial throttle, but then I was experiencing cogging issues.
If you have an android tablet or phone you can use the hotwire software from that device as well. Just saying. I don't bring my computer anymore.
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