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Old 08-23-2016, 10:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

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Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 02-02-2016, 08:54 AM   #1876
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I'm running serpent diff and shimming the diff is needed
I am also running the serpent diff but the fit was good and i didn't need any shims...how many did you use?
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Old 02-02-2016, 08:56 AM   #1877
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Hey Frank, question about gearing for stock 17.5 class racing. In the manual it gives the formula to figure out final drive ratio and lists 9.02:1 for a 7.5 motor with the 78/21 gearing and your suggested gearing for stock is 70/31 which comes out to 5.48:1 final ratio...

curious what is the ideal FDR for stock, if there is such a thing.
There is not a sweet spot that works across the board but the range is fairly narrow. Clearly you have a torquey motor. You can either gear up for speed, or add timing for revs. Going to a higher numerical FDR is the wrong way for you.

Most stock racers are running between 29T and 35T with a 70T spur, depending on the characteristics of their motor.
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Old 02-02-2016, 10:13 AM   #1878
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Ever since the 2.0, been having problems with the cvd pin at the axle/dogbone joint. Every set I've bought, I've degreased the threads, used locktite, and torqed down really tight. I get anywhere from 3-4 runs, to several weeks out of them, but always eventually fail. Pin slides out, ruins a rear hub, and have to buy another set of cvds and their very pricey. Anyone else in this same boat? Any other option parts that will last longer/better?
Cut a 1/4" wide piece of heat shrink and then slide it over the outside of the CVD. Heat it up to shrink it over the cvd and you will no longer have issues with the pin coming out.
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Old 02-02-2016, 10:15 AM   #1879
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Ever since the 2.0, been having problems with the cvd pin at the axle/dogbone joint. Every set I've bought, I've degreased the threads, used locktite, and torqed down really tight. I get anywhere from 3-4 runs, to several weeks out of them, but always eventually fail. Pin slides out, ruins a rear hub, and have to buy another set of cvds and their very pricey. Anyone else in this same boat? Any other option parts that will last longer/better?
SCT 1.0 and 2.0, 22 2.0 and 3.0 - have not lost a pin yet.

I have seen some use couple of layers of shrink tubing to try to keep the pin in, but really, that pin should not be coming out with enough torque and thread lock.

Folks mention cleaning everything before assembly. I have actually not even done that. And, like mud, I too put some black grease in there.
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Old 02-02-2016, 11:04 AM   #1880
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What 17.5 motor are you running and what is the temp after a 5 minute run? I f you are using the Schelle slipper eliminator, you should run their 69 tooth spur for 17.5.
I'm running the D4 maxzilla motor and sunday at Bumps&Jumps after the 10 minute main the motor temp was only about 125 degrees. I got the Schelle "stock" kit that came with 72 and 76 spurs but I was running the 72 tooth Sunday. Maybe I'll try to find a 69 for this weekend, but what range (roughly) pinion should I start with?
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Old 02-02-2016, 11:12 AM   #1881
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I'm running the D4 maxzilla motor and sunday at Bumps&Jumps after the 10 minute main the motor temp was only about 125 degrees. I got the Schelle "stock" kit that came with 72 and 76 spurs but I was running the 72 tooth Sunday. Maybe I'll try to find a 69 for this weekend, but what range (roughly) pinion should I start with?
I like a FDR of 5.5 or close.

72/32 = 5.47
72/31 = 5.67
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Old 02-02-2016, 11:35 AM   #1882
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Originally Posted by mxnickj View Post
I'm running the D4 maxzilla motor and sunday at Bumps&Jumps after the 10 minute main the motor temp was only about 125 degrees. I got the Schelle "stock" kit that came with 72 and 76 spurs but I was running the 72 tooth Sunday. Maybe I'll try to find a 69 for this weekend, but what range (roughly) pinion should I start with?
I was running a D4(not the 1S) w/ 12.5mm rotor and I was geared 30/69 with 50* of timing. At 10 minutes it was around 160*. With the 72 tooth spur run a 30 or 31 pinion and that should get you really close. I'm now running one of the Motiv 17.5's and I'm geared at 29/69.
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Old 02-02-2016, 03:09 PM   #1883
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Does losi make a gear diff for this car? All the tracks in my area are carpet or astro, and a gear diff is a must
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Old 02-02-2016, 03:43 PM   #1884
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Originally Posted by mxnickj View Post
I'm running the D4 maxzilla motor and sunday at Bumps&Jumps after the 10 minute main the motor temp was only about 125 degrees. I got the Schelle "stock" kit that came with 72 and 76 spurs but I was running the 72 tooth Sunday. Maybe I'll try to find a 69 for this weekend, but what range (roughly) pinion should I start with?
I run a Team Powers 17.5 with a 72 spur with a Schelle lockout and a 31 pinion. Sweet spot will depend on track layout at motor timing. I've never run the D4 so I don't know how it runs.
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Old 02-02-2016, 03:44 PM   #1885
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Does losi make a gear diff for this car? All the tracks in my area are carpet or astro, and a gear diff is a must
http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodId=LOSA2954
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Old 02-03-2016, 03:52 AM   #1886
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I've got my chassis design somewhat finalized. The first version I made had some serious design issues that have now been addressed in the new design. I bought a sheet of garolite, which is heaver and not as strong as CF, to test the new design. The new design came out so well I decided to switch my car over to the new chassis for testing. I was rather surprised to find the chassis is nearly as stiff as the stock aluminum chassis despite being made out of a much more flexible material. However, the garolite actually weighs about 10g more than stock! I will be getting some track time with it soon, so if all goes well I'll be ordering a sheet of high quality CF to make the final version pretty soon.







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Old 02-03-2016, 04:20 AM   #1887
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That's pretty friggin sweet !
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Old 02-03-2016, 08:02 AM   #1888
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I've got my chassis design somewhat finalized. The first version I made had some serious design issues that have now been addressed in the new design. I bought a sheet of garolite, which is heaver and not as strong as CF, to test the new design. The new design came out so well I decided to switch my car over to the new chassis for testing. I was rather surprised to find the chassis is nearly as stiff as the stock aluminum chassis despite being made out of a much more flexible material. However, the garolite actually weighs about 10g more than stock! I will be getting some track time with it soon, so if all goes well I'll be ordering a sheet of high quality CF to make the final version pretty soon.
i spy a exotek kickup plate

this looks really nice. are you going to make a couple of them? if not would you be against sharing your files so that others can get their own made up. i have local access to a cnc machine (and hope to get my own someday soon).

plus i would like to modify it for use with my low profile transmission project

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Old 02-03-2016, 08:05 AM   #1889
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How does the new 3.0 compare to the B5m for those that have driven both.
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Old 02-03-2016, 08:32 AM   #1890
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How does the new 3.0 compare to the B5m for those that have driven both.
The 3.0 is as good, imo better when your talking corner speed
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