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Old 08-23-2016, 10:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 01-28-2016, 05:45 PM   #1801
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So I was messing around with the VLA adjustment on my home track, Coyote Hobbies which is indoor high bite clay. Seems like the short VLA makes the car very aggressive and the harder you drive the car the better it is. To me, the long VLA makes the car less aggressive and easier to drive is you back off a bit. It seemed as tho the long VLA was consistent from entry to exit and the short VLA was very aggressive on entry and held a tighter line than the long VLA. Anyone else think this as well?
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Old 01-28-2016, 05:53 PM   #1802
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Got bored, made a chassis for my car. What do you guys think?









It's not 100% finished yet. I need to tweak the 3d model a bit. Some of the dimensions were off by a millimeter or two. I didn't countersink any of the holes. Also, this is just a cheap sheet of 2mm CF I got from China off of ebay. I plan on buying a good USA made sheet of 2.5mm CF with a 0-45-90 layup. Weights about 65g less than stock.
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Old 01-28-2016, 06:54 PM   #1803
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I wish I could get bored and make a freakin CF chassis. Nice work! You could make a few bucks on the side making CF chassis for all the weight conscious racers out there.
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Old 01-28-2016, 09:14 PM   #1804
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Originally Posted by FPMX772 View Post
So I was messing around with the VLA adjustment on my home track, Coyote Hobbies which is indoor high bite clay. Seems like the short VLA makes the car very aggressive and the harder you drive the car the better it is. To me, the long VLA makes the car less aggressive and easier to drive is you back off a bit. It seemed as tho the long VLA was consistent from entry to exit and the short VLA was very aggressive on entry and held a tighter line than the long VLA. Anyone else think this as well?
How where your lap times?
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Old 01-29-2016, 03:01 AM   #1805
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Frank, Ryan or Casper are there any tuning tips for medium low grip, I have been trying to get more forward bite with minimal results any input would be good.
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Old 01-29-2016, 04:26 AM   #1806
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Frank, Ryan or Casper are there any tuning tips for medium low grip, I have been trying to get more forward bite with minimal results any input would be good.
Couple of things, try softer rear spring( Kyosho white) move hubs forward, lower rear roll center by flipping the insert, I went to reg ball stud with no shims for the Ackerman
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Old 01-29-2016, 06:44 AM   #1807
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Got bored, made a chassis for my car. What do you guys think?

It's not 100% finished yet. I need to tweak the 3d model a bit. Some of the dimensions were off by a millimeter or two. I didn't countersink any of the holes. Also, this is just a cheap sheet of 2mm CF I got from China off of ebay. I plan on buying a good USA made sheet of 2.5mm CF with a 0-45-90 layup. Weights about 65g less than stock.
Convert the bottom screws to button head and run in! It looks awesome!
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Old 01-29-2016, 07:12 AM   #1808
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Can anyone confirm if the yz-2 body is a direct fit (or close to it) for the 3.0? Any pics? I saw it was discussed previously in the thread, but not sure it was confirmed. Thanks
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Old 01-29-2016, 07:18 AM   #1809
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How where your lap times?
.1-.2/sec faster with the short VLA for me. I wouldn't make this change based on lap times, for me its more of a different driving feel. If you like a smoother front end while turning then go long VLA, but if you like a really aggressive front end while turning then go short VLA.
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Old 01-29-2016, 07:21 AM   #1810
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Originally Posted by FPMX772 View Post
So I was messing around with the VLA adjustment on my home track, Coyote Hobbies which is indoor high bite clay. Seems like the short VLA makes the car very aggressive and the harder you drive the car the better it is. To me, the long VLA makes the car less aggressive and easier to drive is you back off a bit. It seemed as tho the long VLA was consistent from entry to exit and the short VLA was very aggressive on entry and held a tighter line than the long VLA. Anyone else think this as well?
I found the opposite to be true. The stock short VLA position felt lazy to me on corner entry and exit. Felt ok mid corner. When I switched to the long VLA position the car steered more aggressively into and out of turns. Guess this perception varies by driver and track conditions.
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Old 01-29-2016, 09:27 AM   #1811
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I found the opposite to be true. The stock short VLA position felt lazy to me on corner entry and exit. Felt ok mid corner. When I switched to the long VLA position the car steered more aggressively into and out of turns. Guess this perception varies by driver and track conditions.
It probably has more to do with the proper changes being made from short arm to long arm. I am not sure everyone is adjusting the geometry correctly.
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Old 01-29-2016, 09:37 AM   #1812
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Originally Posted by Jack Bonhomme View Post
I found the opposite to be true. The stock short VLA position felt lazy to me on corner entry and exit. Felt ok mid corner. When I switched to the long VLA position the car steered more aggressively into and out of turns. Guess this perception varies by driver and track conditions.
Interesting. I going to play around with it again tonight when I hit the track.
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Old 01-29-2016, 10:37 AM   #1813
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Frank, Ryan or Casper are there any tuning tips for medium low grip, I have been trying to get more forward bite with minimal results any input would be good.
First thing I would do is move the rear hubs forward.

Then more camber gain in the rear. (shorter link or raise the outside)

Have you tried the 4 gear tranny?
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Old 01-29-2016, 12:06 PM   #1814
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Originally Posted by RC10Nick View Post
Got bored, made a chassis for my car. What do you guys think?


It's not 100% finished yet. I need to tweak the 3d model a bit. Some of the dimensions were off by a millimeter or two. I didn't countersink any of the holes. Also, this is just a cheap sheet of 2mm CF I got from China off of ebay. I plan on buying a good USA made sheet of 2.5mm CF with a 0-45-90 layup. Weights about 65g less than stock.
Very nice man!!! That would have made my tranny mod easier
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Old 01-29-2016, 12:35 PM   #1815
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
Couple of things, try softer rear spring( Kyosho white) move hubs forward, lower rear roll center by flipping the insert, I went to reg ball stud with no shims for the Ackerman
I would start with moving your hubs forward, a softer rear spring, or lowering your rear roll center as all previously mentioned. Last step would be going to a 4 gear transmission. Remember to only make on change at a time, and go from there depending on feel.
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