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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 01-21-2016, 07:02 PM   #1711
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Got the thumb screws for the battery hold down, I highly recommend this change. Much cleaner and easier to use, at least for me.
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Old 01-21-2016, 07:31 PM   #1712
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Default Chassis braces

I did not see that coming.
With the B5M we were chopping the chassis up to get it to flex.
Of course this still high not work for me because of the lack of bite at my local track.
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Old 01-21-2016, 08:03 PM   #1713
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would you mind sharing your prep technique and motor size?

I remove the foam inserts then turn the tires inside out and spray enough Simple Green to completely degrease the mold release agent from the tires and spend extra attention on the bead area pinching the bead with my fingers as I rotate the full circumference of the bead. Then I rinse with water and lightly dab the foam insert (to remove the chalky residue) with the paper towel that I used to dry my hands after rinsing the tires.

To prep the wheels, I'll use a rubbing alcohol swab to degrease the bead of each wheel, usually 1 swab will cover all 4 wheels.

I use AKA glue and carefully lift the bead up so enough glue completely seats to the inner lip of the wheel as I apply the glue to the wheel and then let the rubber press onto the bead of the wheel.

After setting all 4 tires with CA, I'll go back and spot check for any holes by slightly pulling back the rubber to expose any weak areas and fill the voids with a drop or two where necessary.

I've mounted the tires within 2 hours of racing on a cool day with ambient temps around 66 and running a 17.5T motor. The traction is very high at Thornhill Jr, so the tires usually go bald after 4-5 heats of racing. It's possible that I don't get enough runs to see the beads peeling off because I go through tires so quickly?

I raced at OCRC a few weeks back and couldn't help but to notice how little tire wear they've got going with their mister system. I'd be curious to learn about how many heats of racing before the peeling starts to occur for you as well?

TIA
I do pretty much the same prep as you except I also use the simple green on the rims. I haven't done anything to the inserts as I didn't think they really interfered with the gluing process. The local nitro guys use the same method and none of the 8th scale tires have this peeling. I have some AKA's glued on some Losi rims currently so we'll see how they turnout.
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Old 01-21-2016, 08:15 PM   #1714
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I do pretty much the same prep as you except I also use the simple green on the rims. I haven't done anything to the inserts as I didn't think they really interfered with the gluing process. The local nitro guys use the same method and none of the 8th scale tires have this peeling. I have some AKA's glued on some Losi rims currently so we'll see how they turnout.
I see, what turn motor are you running and about how many heats do you run before the peeling starts to occur?
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Old 01-21-2016, 09:18 PM   #1715
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I see, what turn motor are you running and about how many heats do you run before the peeling starts to occur?
I only run 17.5 and I'm not too sure on the number of heats before peeling. Its been at various stages of tire life. Not worn tires either. Very useful tread still left. This has happened to quite a few in my local area.
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Old 01-21-2016, 09:36 PM   #1716
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I only run 17.5 and I'm not too sure on the number of heats before peeling. Its been at various stages of tire life. Not worn tires either. Very useful tread still left. This has happened to quite a few in my local area.
In my case, my tires are worn after 1 race day... so the issue may be moot for me. Are you going maybe 3-4 race days before they start to peel? I'm just trying to better understand the limits of the 2.4 tire design. Thanks
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Old 01-22-2016, 02:26 AM   #1717
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Hey Frank, Great showing today at the Reedy race!

15th seed in 2wd and top ten in 4wd. WTFG!

Best of luck to you and Ryan this weekend.
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Old 01-22-2016, 07:07 AM   #1718
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I see that so I will get the MIP one's instead. I'd like to be able to purchase just the bone if it should happen to get bent. Thanks for the help. Glad to see you're still around. Some of these younger cats probably do know who Andrew Gray is
No problem Clint. Who I is...is not really important these days, like a has been washed up college football player begging for change on the street corner. Just like your signature says about the good ol' days.
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Old 01-22-2016, 03:14 PM   #1719
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Apparently Maifield thinks the chassis flexes too much.
Word is they're back off the car...
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Old 01-22-2016, 05:23 PM   #1720
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i stripped a screw and broke my rear shock tower, but it seems to be out of stock everywhere. anyone know where i can find one
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Old 01-22-2016, 05:44 PM   #1721
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Last edited by kki000; 01-22-2016 at 06:28 PM.
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Old 01-22-2016, 06:08 PM   #1722
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You're getting worked up over nothing. The plastic hexes work perfectly and don't need to be changed. This is why it was barely discussed at all...
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Old 01-22-2016, 06:29 PM   #1723
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hi
im building this 3.0 with my 8yr old, both of us having a great time so far.

opened the bag for the rear suspension and saw the plastic wheel hexes.. i threw up in my mouth a little bit.

im sure this was already discussed ad nauseum (pun intended).. but how many pennies saved with this move?
im fine with buying upgrades... but why even bother with this piece of plastic in the box?
give me a non threaded aluminum hex and let me buy the threaded piece in a race or two. (ala scte)

im embarrassed to put this plastic piece on.
i guess i should have known to pick this up before i started the build.

sorry for the rant.

K
Significant reduction in rotating mass . . . . they also don't come off or get stuck in the wheel . . .

Easy 'fix' if you really 'need' them . . .
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Old 01-22-2016, 07:08 PM   #1724
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kkiooo, I am with you on this. I hate plastic hex's have changed them on all my cars. Went with the + .75 tlr option hex's on this car. Wanted to widen the rear just a little.
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Old 01-23-2016, 05:34 AM   #1725
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Anyone run the 3.0 on carpet? Thoughts?
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