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Old 08-23-2016, 10:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 01-19-2016, 07:09 AM   #1666
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Mine either came bent or somehow bent during my first run on the car.
This has been my experience. If you have it tightened down all the way, it may appear as bent; it will wobble.

Loosen it up and see if it spins true.

The force of the spring will pull it one way. You can try to straighten it by squeezing the spring with pliers. Try to get the spring centered on the threads.
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Old 01-19-2016, 09:28 AM   #1667
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Hey guys I recently built the 3.0 buggy to compare to my b5m and was just wondering what gearing I should start with,I run the d4 1s and I also run the 24k motor as well.
For the d4 1s I run 69/30 (5.59 FDR) at 55 degrees timing.
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Old 01-19-2016, 10:25 AM   #1668
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i was building a spare diff that i had from my stock car since i installed the mip diff, noticed the diff spring while sitting on a flat surface was leaning to one side about 30 deg, is this normal or did i get a defective spring?
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Old 01-19-2016, 10:25 AM   #1669
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Thank you. Just picked up a 3.0 and a nice 2.0 for my son
Have all electronics except a steering servo. Orion R10 and Xmod 13.5. Ordered the 1258tg be. I have a Hobbywing V3.1 and a trackstar 17.5 outlaw too. So I have my work cut out for me reading the thread. Thanks!
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Old 01-19-2016, 10:28 AM   #1670
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After using a hole punch for the cups I will never use a drill bit again. Not saying there is anything wrong with a drill bit, but the hole punch is just easier. I thought the hole punch would distort the cup, but it did not.
As I get older the easier the better for me.
That is one of the reasons i got the 22.3.0. The front end and rear hubs without the pills like the other brands out there. Less slop and knowing i have them on the right way. and it drives awesome.
The hole punch is one of the best tools in my box.
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Old 01-19-2016, 01:48 PM   #1671
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I have just purchased 2 kits will the wheels from my b5m fit I have lots of tires hope they will work?
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Old 01-19-2016, 02:01 PM   #1672
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I have just purchased 2 kits will the wheels from my b5m fit I have lots of tires hope they will work?
no, off-set is completely wrong
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Old 01-19-2016, 02:02 PM   #1673
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no, off-set is completely wrong
^fronts from your B5m will not work. Rears will be fine.
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Old 01-19-2016, 02:22 PM   #1674
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I finally ran my 3.0 this weekend at 2 trophy races at 2 different tracks with different dirt surfaces. Overall I like the buggy (1st time driving a mid motor car ) but I found the stock setup to push too much. At the 2nd track the lanes were much wider but I still felt it could be more responsive. I made the change to the long VLA front arm position and that seemed to do the trick. Buggy cornered much sharper on corner entry and held a tighter line. I still had a very planted rear end. My next step is to try the 1.6 and 1.7 shock pistons setup.
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Old 01-19-2016, 03:32 PM   #1675
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I've started work on a fun new project Ijust made a test cut with some old G10 I had laying around to make sure everything was going to work out before I touched the good stuff. Stay tuned
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Old 01-19-2016, 04:49 PM   #1676
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What kind of hole punch are you guys using to put the hole in the ball cups? I have a leather punch I use to make holes in my tires, would that work?
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Old 01-19-2016, 04:50 PM   #1677
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What kind of hole punch are you guys using to put the hole in the ball cups? I have a leather punch I use to make holes in my tires, would that work?
That's what most are using.punch from the inside, out.
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Old 01-19-2016, 05:37 PM   #1678
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What piston setup are most using? I see a lot of set ups are using 1.6 front and rear. Is that what most are using on here? Or staying with the kit setup of 1.5 in front and 1.6 rear?

Thank you for any replies.
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Old 01-19-2016, 07:04 PM   #1679
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I've started work on a fun new project Ijust made a test cut with some old G10 I had laying around to make sure everything was going to work out before I touched the good stuff. Stay tuned
I hope this means CF chassis will soon be on the way!
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Old 01-19-2016, 07:57 PM   #1680
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Some folks who have tried have the Losi 22 rtr gear diff have had a little binding some have not. If yours does bind here is how i fixed mine.
Only takes a minute to accomplish.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/22em...9/?pnref=story
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