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Old 08-23-2016, 10:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

K.King
Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 01-17-2016, 11:13 PM   #1636
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Pardon my lack of searching. Search function is not cooperating with my phone. What is a good servo to run? Savox 1258tg is what I hear?
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Old 01-18-2016, 05:36 AM   #1637
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Originally Posted by Dr. Gonzo View Post
Pardon my lack of searching. Search function is not cooperating with my phone. What is a good servo to run? Savox 1258tg is what I hear?
The 1258 is excellent. Running this in my 2 buggies, truck and 4wd and they have never failed in the past year. Going to try the 1251 this year in my 22 3.0 to shave 8 oz of weight.
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Old 01-18-2016, 08:02 AM   #1638
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Are the aluminum, standard-width rear hexes (TLR2930) being phased out? I'm interested in picking some up but nobody actually seems to have any in-stock.
They are here to stay, we just are sold out ATM. Working on getting them back in quickly.
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Old 01-18-2016, 10:49 AM   #1639
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So is drilling a hole in the ballcup to access the stud a good idea on the 22 series? I like it on my xray stuff, just wondering if it compromises the strength of the cup. Also what is the best way to make the hole?
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Old 01-18-2016, 12:06 PM   #1640
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Thinking about purchasing a 22 3.0 today. I am not seeing any 70t spur gears anywhere that use the stock slipper system. Do you have to change to an aftermarket slipper to run a 70t spur?
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Old 01-18-2016, 12:13 PM   #1641
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So is drilling a hole in the ballcup to access the stud a good idea on the 22 series? I like it on my xray stuff, just wondering if it compromises the strength of the cup. Also what is the best way to make the hole?
I have done it to every TLR car I owned and zero issues. I wish TLR would just make this change to the kits.
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Old 01-18-2016, 12:58 PM   #1642
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So is drilling a hole in the ballcup to access the stud a good idea on the 22 series? I like it on my xray stuff, just wondering if it compromises the strength of the cup. Also what is the best way to make the hole?
I've seen on here people using the leather punch or whatever they are called. Tire Punch if you are looking at the AKA one.
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Old 01-18-2016, 01:01 PM   #1643
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I have done it to every TLR car I owned and zero issues. I wish TLR would just make this change to the kits.
Ok, so what do you use to make the hole. Leather punch seems like it would distort the cup.
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Old 01-18-2016, 01:05 PM   #1644
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Thinking about purchasing a 22 3.0 today. I am not seeing any 70t spur gears anywhere that use the stock slipper system. Do you have to change to an aftermarket slipper to run a 70t spur?
You just need the older style slipper pads or use AE slipper pads and any of the gears that work with them.
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Old 01-18-2016, 01:09 PM   #1645
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Ok, so what do you use to make the hole. Leather punch seems like it would distort the cup.
No problem with hole punch. Use the appropriate size one, insert the punch into the cup and done. Do distortion at all.
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Old 01-18-2016, 01:09 PM   #1646
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You just need the older style slipper pads or use AE slipper pads and any of the gears that work with them.
I'm surprised this hasn't been updated on the OP considering how many times this question is asked.
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Old 01-18-2016, 01:16 PM   #1647
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I ran for a few weeks without it then installed it last week, what I noticed was that it fixed my issue of getting squirly coming off the straightaway and into our full speed sweeper, seemed a lot more composed and locked in at full speed which allowed me to push harder through that section. I also noticed it in our negative camber 90 degree left hand turn where I had been prone to traction rolling and a general feeling of edginess before. The fin calmed that feeling down slightly, I would say it isnt a dramatic difference you will notice everywhere on the track but if you benefit from it even twice a lap like I am it makes it well worth the installation, I didnt notice any negatives either
Cool thanks for the info.....
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Old 01-18-2016, 01:32 PM   #1648
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Originally Posted by ryan432greening View Post
Thinking about purchasing a 22 3.0 today. I am not seeing any 70t spur gears anywhere that use the stock slipper system. Do you have to change to an aftermarket slipper to run a 70t spur?
70T Spur - http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...ProdID=TLR3978
Pads for 70T Spur (you need 2x) - http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodId=LOSA3123
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Old 01-18-2016, 02:25 PM   #1649
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Very kind. Thank you. I was hung up on the pads looking the same.
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Old 01-18-2016, 04:21 PM   #1650
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I just purchased the TLR 22 3.0 kit. I have not bought any of the electronics yet.

I am wondering if it is possible to completely assemble the kit without any of the electronics such as servo, esc, motor......

Can I put all of those electronics into place after or does it make things complicated.

Any insight would be helpful as I am a beginner. Thanks!
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