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Old 08-23-2016, 10:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Cub86 posted the question: Hi. I'm struggling to understand the lay down situation. I run on high bite damp smooth clay and think the conversation would help on my surface but from what I'm reading I need to buy the lay down kit tlr338004. And the dirt gear case tlr332063. But do I really need both from what I've read the dirt case is 1-2mm higher anyway and u don't use the +3mm hubs or the front pivot hrc or Hrc mod. So is the dirt lay down kit tlr332063 is all that's needed to get me a lay down set up that's suited for clay With the components and car I already have. And if I only get the dirt case is there any problems that will need to be addressed IE.. bone plunge . I do know I'll need 1mm spacers on the waterfall to clear the battery. Thanks guys really trying to get my head around this.

Franks response:
Laydown Conversion will work great by itself. You run the aluminum +3mm hubs, the diff is +3.5mm, and you run the HRC front setup. Just follow a setup sheet from tlracing.com (Frank Root).

Dirt Tranny has the diff at the same height as the standard tranny case, and works with the standard plastic hubs. Both are +/- 0mm from stock. When you run this, no need to run the HRC front mod either.

I've found the stock laydown conversion parts to work great for most tracks. The dirt tranny is a great tuning option, but definitely not 'required'.

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Something I made, pretty basic. Just to give people an idea.

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Old 01-14-2016, 06:50 PM   #1606
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I have seen a few pictures of broken ones but have not seen one break in person. Their are several 3.0 buggys running at my lhs. I think it really depends on how hard you crash.
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Old 01-14-2016, 07:04 PM   #1607
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I just watched Jason Snyders review of the 3.0 and he claims that the rear camber block is a bit weak....has anyone found the same issue?...and if so is there a replacement part. I haven't had the privilege to run mine yet as its a little snowy here in the great white north.
We have experienced one out here so far. Probably hit just right. Many packs on other cars without an issue.
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Old 01-14-2016, 07:58 PM   #1608
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There's quiet a few that run at my track and I don't think I've seen one break. I've been in some cringe worthy crashes and have come out unscathed.
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Old 01-14-2016, 10:45 PM   #1609
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Originally Posted by Shaun B22 View Post
I just watched Jason Snyders review of the 3.0 and he claims that the rear camber block is a bit weak....has anyone found the same issue?...and if so is there a replacement part. I haven't had the privilege to run mine yet as its a little snowy here in the great white north.
Today at the track on my first lap I hit an I beam right on the 3/4 inch "I" part of the beam in mid air. Nailed the right front side and though for sure it was broke. I walked over to it and all it did was pop a camber link off the ball stud. I snapped it back together and away it went. They are pretty tuff but later in the day I cased a jump and flipped it upside down and landed right on the rear shock tower, that hit ended my day with a broken rear tower. The wing also gave out so maybe thats why the tower took such a hit. So I have broke a rear tower and 1 rear ball stud so far.
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Old 01-14-2016, 10:56 PM   #1610
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Just got my 22 3.0 yesterday spent all night putting it together..Lost one of the tungsten bearings and had to buy another set. After that finally got it fully assembled. Finally got the electronics in the car and realized I forgot to make sure the servo was centered so had to fix that.. Now the only problem I am having is the front shocks do not seem to spring back up.. They have oil and they assembled correctly according to the manual. Not sure, oh and the steering is reversed. But Hey I have 22 3.0 so there is no down side here.. I'm gonna post pictures, just curious if anyone else had these problems.
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Old 01-14-2016, 11:36 PM   #1611
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Just got my 22 3.0 yesterday spent all night putting it together..Lost one of the tungsten bearings and had to buy another set. After that finally got it fully assembled. Finally got the electronics in the car and realized I forgot to make sure the servo was centered so had to fix that.. Now the only problem I am having is the front shocks do not seem to spring back up.. They have oil and they assembled correctly according to the manual. Not sure, oh and the steering is reversed. But Hey I have 22 3.0 so there is no down side here.. I'm gonna post pictures, just curious if anyone else had these problems.
If you take the shocks and wheels off do the arms drop under their own weight?
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Old 01-15-2016, 04:05 AM   #1612
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As far as the front shocks not rebounding, when I built my car I noticed my front arms did not drop very well on their own weight. I ever so slightly tapped the front hinge pins back out and that solved my problem. They dropped freely after that.
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Old 01-15-2016, 06:18 AM   #1613
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Originally Posted by Shaun B22 View Post
I just watched Jason Snyders review of the 3.0 and he claims that the rear camber block is a bit weak....has anyone found the same issue?...and if so is there a replacement part. I haven't had the privilege to run mine yet as its a little snowy here in the great white north.
I did manage to break my sons. We were trying to get my car up to speed and he had me drive his car. I started to drive a little to aggressively and slammed the wall pretty hard (read: real hard) and his broke. They ain't cheap, either. I don't think it is a part to be real concerned about though. Kinda like the fear of the dog bone spacing going into the out drive, you'd really have to torque the car to get it to fail. Yes, it can break, but so can the chassis and the transmission case.
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Old 01-15-2016, 06:20 AM   #1614
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I've got a bad traction rolling problem. Med/high bite clay track, through the middle of a high speed sweeper my car just hooked and tumbles. Letting off the gas helps, but isn't an option as our racing is very competitive and I just loose too much time doing that every lap. Looking for a way to stop the traction rolling without loosing too much entry steering.
Currently running stock shock package except red front springs pink rears (LF)
And the rear camber insert +1 (but have tried that in all 3 locations)
Everything else is box stock
Any and all suggestions are great.
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Old 01-15-2016, 06:40 AM   #1615
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I think I went a little overboard, built my stock car with JConcepts Titanium turnbuckles, Losi Titanium Shock mounts and Schelle Titanium screws, Something tells me I'm going to be way under. Got to get it on the scale
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Old 01-15-2016, 07:11 AM   #1616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skoalisbad4me View Post
I've got a bad traction rolling problem. Med/high bite clay track, through the middle of a high speed sweeper my car just hooked and tumbles. Letting off the gas helps, but isn't an option as our racing is very competitive and I just loose too much time doing that every lap. Looking for a way to stop the traction rolling without loosing too much entry steering.
Currently running stock shock package except red front springs pink rears (LF)
And the rear camber insert +1 (but have tried that in all 3 locations)
Everything else is box stock
Any and all suggestions are great.
Wouldn't you want to raise the rear roll center in this situation? Try the -1 setting . Raising the roll center would stiffen it up preventing the rear from rolling too much.
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Old 01-15-2016, 07:27 AM   #1617
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skoalisbad4me View Post
I've got a bad traction rolling problem. Med/high bite clay track, through the middle of a high speed sweeper my car just hooked and tumbles. Letting off the gas helps, but isn't an option as our racing is very competitive and I just loose too much time doing that every lap. Looking for a way to stop the traction rolling without loosing too much entry steering.
Currently running stock shock package except red front springs pink rears (LF)
And the rear camber insert +1 (but have tried that in all 3 locations)
Everything else is box stock
Any and all suggestions are great.
I'd try thicker oil, maybe 32.5 front and rear, even maybe 35 rear. Maybe an Orange front spring will be a sweet spot between red and silver LF. Also, try 1mm more front droop, this should help. You can always go to the longer front link by going to #1 on the side.

Let me know how it goes.
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Old 01-15-2016, 07:29 AM   #1618
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skoalisbad4me View Post
I've got a bad traction rolling problem. Med/high bite clay track, through the middle of a high speed sweeper my car just hooked and tumbles. Letting off the gas helps, but isn't an option as our racing is very competitive and I just loose too much time doing that every lap. Looking for a way to stop the traction rolling without loosing too much entry steering.
Currently running stock shock package except red front springs pink rears (LF)
And the rear camber insert +1 (but have tried that in all 3 locations)
Everything else is box stock
Any and all suggestions are great.
I've had the same issue. My fix was to go to 2mm spacers inside each shock and drop ride height. Usually, I'm between 20 and 22mm when traction is super high.
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Old 01-15-2016, 09:16 AM   #1619
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Thanks Frank and RedB. Those were both a couple things I was going to tinker with. The orange front was my next step, but haven't had a chance at a practice day yet. And I was also thinking of going down on ride height 1mm. I'll give these few suggestions a try and see what happens
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Old 01-15-2016, 02:08 PM   #1620
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i installed the gear diff, and it is definitely not spinning freely. i read on this thread there is a spacer i can use from the tuning bad to make it work?

what spacer is it? what does it look like? i am finished building the kit except for that
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