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Old 01-17-2016, 09:46 AM   #121
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Hey guys, just built my v3. Wondering if anyone has noticed any toe in bump steer on the car and if so, what did you do to get rid of it. Thanks
I've been playing around with shims and middle hole 3mm shims cuts a lot of the bump in. You'll need longer ballstuds.

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Thanks for answering my question. I also had a question dealing with the axels. Is any one having troubles with them barely siting in the outdrives? And if so do they pop out at all at full droop?
Make sure the shock ends are screwed all the way in, the new shock ends are really tight. I had to use shock pliers and put a hex driver through the end to get it threaded all the way down.
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Old 01-17-2016, 04:42 PM   #122
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Thanks.
I think it would look better finished with this cover (like Losi 22 3.0 or PR S1 V2 MM)
I agree
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Old 01-17-2016, 04:59 PM   #123
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There is no gear cover
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Old 01-18-2016, 08:44 AM   #124
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There is no gear cover
Even as optional part ?
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Old 01-18-2016, 09:27 AM   #125
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Like all other laydown transmission MM cars, the body serves as a protectant to debris. With the slipper adjuster needing to protrude through the body, a gear cover is kind of unnecessary and overkill.

Today most tracks consist of finer substrates and they try to ensure no "rocks" reside on them. The most you'll likely ever get in the spur is larger grins of sand/dirt, but not much of anything else. And if you did get something stuck int he spur and damage or break it, they'r like $4 and most people usually have a stockpile of them so it's a quick and easy change to make.

I think you're overthinking this a bit.
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Old 01-18-2016, 11:18 AM   #126
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Originally Posted by xxx-ntad2 racer View Post
Thanks for answering my question. I also had a question dealing with the axels. Is any one having troubles with them barely siting in the outdrives? And if so do they pop out at all at full droop?
I ran my car for the first time last week and they popped out twice. I added 2mm limiters and set the stroke at 27mm and no more issues.

So far I'm loving this car, has tones of steering and lots of cornering speed. I'm running 30/32.5 with the 1.6 front/rear and 22mm ride hight on high bite clay.
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Old 02-15-2016, 06:48 PM   #127
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Default Gearing

What's a good starting point for gearing a 13.5 motor
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Old 02-16-2016, 08:13 AM   #128
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Depending on your track and motor I think a generic starting point would be 21t-23t pinion with the stock 81t spur. The V3 has 2.6 internal ratio same as a Associated so check to see where they are running and go from there.
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Old 02-16-2016, 10:21 AM   #129
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Depending on your track and motor I think a generic starting point would be 21t-23t pinion with the stock 81t spur. The V3 has 2.6 internal ratio same as a Associated so check to see where they are running and go from there.
Ok great thanks
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Old 03-17-2016, 11:44 AM   #130
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I was very leery about selling my V2 as it was dialed BUT after seeing a V3 in person and seeing the small changes they did to improve some of the few small problems with the V2 I could NOT resist so let the fun begin..
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Old 03-17-2016, 03:30 PM   #131
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Going together amazingly, Definitely one of the BEST kits I have built and I have been doing this for 12 years LOL

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Old 03-17-2016, 09:20 PM   #132
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This is way cool, the V3 kits comes with all the lite weight drive train parts...

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Old 03-17-2016, 09:33 PM   #133
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Old 03-17-2016, 10:00 PM   #134
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Nice. I hope you're building it with the Ball Diff. I tried the Gear Diff in my YZ-2 and it was titchy. Swapped to the BD and it was perfect. Try it this way if you must but if you find it's a bit unpredictable don't hesitate to drop the BD in and see if it doesn't settle it down. Might want to run the brass RR hanger as well. ;-)
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Old 03-17-2016, 10:11 PM   #135
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I really like the way gear diffs drive for me but I have ball diffs as well if needed
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