333LikesXray XB2 2WD Buggy Thread
05-04-2019, 06:44 PM - Wikipost
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12-19-2016, 09:19 PM
#4276
Yeah, 3 gear laydown. 100 percent shocks on front. Wouldn't run any other way for a tight track like mine. I didn't move to the inner hole on the arm yet, as the rear already skipped around a bit when I raised the rear hinge pin/roll center. I had that experience of the rear breaking loose with the inner hole on the rear arm previously. A lot of my break in traction on the bumps could be a result of the gear diff. I'll put the ball diff back in and try some of These suggestions as I'll have more grip. I must say the gear diff is awesome especially on sweepers when the grip is high enough on clay
12-20-2016, 05:37 AM
#4277
Yeah, 3 gear laydown. 100 percent shocks on front. Wouldn't run any other way for a tight track like mine. I didn't move to the inner hole on the arm yet, as the rear already skipped around a bit when I raised the rear hinge pin/roll center. I had that experience of the rear breaking loose with the inner hole on the rear arm previously. A lot of my break in traction on the bumps could be a result of the gear diff. I'll put the ball diff back in and try some of These suggestions as I'll have more grip. I must say the gear diff is awesome especially on sweepers when the grip is high enough on clay
Last edited by symmetricon; 12-20-2016 at 05:48 AM.
12-20-2016, 06:47 AM
#4279
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (15)
I haven't tried shortening the front links yet... Hmm. Tried the rear without the front a long time ago. Liked the turn in but buggy seemed to have strange flow to the whole range of the turn, and also lost a little traction. albeit this was with the dirt edition. I love them short on the front of another buggy. Felt a lot more locked in. Regarding toe, I felt 3 was the minimum with the bumps recently on my track... thx for the suggestion! I almost sold the buggy before adding the zero slot ackerman arms which gave me just enough to keep, given the buggy was so easy to drive. Lap times are fine in qualifying heats, but in races there are are few tight corners where i can get taken on the inside line. Regarding the front links, is it preblematic to have short links on front but longer links on the rear? thx sir
my xb2 has tons of steering, it's my xb4 that im having the exact same steering issue you're having with the xb2. but on my xb4 it's because i set it up to have a ton more rear grip since switching to 1m cst center diff oil it made my rear get a lot more power so i had to change the car and give it more rear grip, im still working on getting the perfect amount of steering without sacrificing the rear grip, im slowly getting there.
have you tried raising the front inner camber link and using the medium front bulkhead and under tray plastics? try running more front camber i run 3 and my tires wear down the middle. getting the front to roll a tad more and bite with a good contact patch really helps mid corner steering. and then make sure your front shocks are the right spring and oil setup relative to the rear. I run 2 dot springs in front with 500cst oil and 1 dot in the rear with 400 cst
also make sure your servo horn is the correct size and make sure your steering link ball stud connected to the servo horn and the steering plate isn't hitting the underside of the bulkhead.
other than that as others have suggested you will have to start playing wit the rear and take some traction away there.
btw how come you went with the 0 slot ackermann plates and not the 1. i still run the 2's but i think im going to get 1's. is your track extremely tight?
12-20-2016, 09:25 AM
#4280
My tracks pretty tight. 16 second lap times usually. High bite clay. Just had th 0 slot by accident actually.still not quiet enough steering so I would still get those instead of the 1. Taking a MM out of the front camber link gave me more steering. I may further shorten the front camber link for more camber gain or perhaps running a lot of camber as you suggested is a good start. Thx! bTW - I have the same issue in my xb4 too but haven't really played with setup much and was going to revert back to 9 degree caster hubs...
can you post a better image of your setup?
my xb2 has tons of steering, it's my xb4 that im having the exact same steering issue you're having with the xb2. but on my xb4 it's because i set it up to have a ton more rear grip since switching to 1m cst center diff oil it made my rear get a lot more power so i had to change the car and give it more rear grip, im still working on getting the perfect amount of steering without sacrificing the rear grip, im slowly getting there.
have you tried raising the front inner camber link and using the medium front bulkhead and under tray plastics? try running more front camber i run 3 and my tires wear down the middle. getting the front to roll a tad more and bite with a good contact patch really helps mid corner steering. and then make sure your front shocks are the right spring and oil setup relative to the rear. I run 2 dot springs in front with 500cst oil and 1 dot in the rear with 400 cst
also make sure your servo horn is the correct size and make sure your steering link ball stud connected to the servo horn and the steering plate isn't hitting the underside of the bulkhead.
other than that as others have suggested you will have to start playing wit the rear and take some traction away there.
btw how come you went with the 0 slot ackermann plates and not the 1. i still run the 2's but i think im going to get 1's. is your track extremely tight?
my xb2 has tons of steering, it's my xb4 that im having the exact same steering issue you're having with the xb2. but on my xb4 it's because i set it up to have a ton more rear grip since switching to 1m cst center diff oil it made my rear get a lot more power so i had to change the car and give it more rear grip, im still working on getting the perfect amount of steering without sacrificing the rear grip, im slowly getting there.
have you tried raising the front inner camber link and using the medium front bulkhead and under tray plastics? try running more front camber i run 3 and my tires wear down the middle. getting the front to roll a tad more and bite with a good contact patch really helps mid corner steering. and then make sure your front shocks are the right spring and oil setup relative to the rear. I run 2 dot springs in front with 500cst oil and 1 dot in the rear with 400 cst
also make sure your servo horn is the correct size and make sure your steering link ball stud connected to the servo horn and the steering plate isn't hitting the underside of the bulkhead.
other than that as others have suggested you will have to start playing wit the rear and take some traction away there.
btw how come you went with the 0 slot ackermann plates and not the 1. i still run the 2's but i think im going to get 1's. is your track extremely tight?
12-20-2016, 11:05 AM
#4281
will a b6 spur gear work on the xb2, helping a friend for stock.
12-21-2016, 12:35 PM
#4283
Don't have fbi, can't see..
12-22-2016, 03:24 PM
#4285
xray gears are for 3 pad slipper system, AE B6 uses 2. racers have used schelle slippers systems with MIP top shafts (see WIKI at front). it may be possible to do the same with the AE 2 disk system in place of the schelle?
if he has a exotek slipper eliminator for xray, you are able to use 69 and 72 spurs like kimbrough. exotek and similar ones that use the 3 screw pattern mounting like AE, TLR, etc cars use in spec motor classes
not sure on the xray eliminator screw pattern?
if he has a exotek slipper eliminator for xray, you are able to use 69 and 72 spurs like kimbrough. exotek and similar ones that use the 3 screw pattern mounting like AE, TLR, etc cars use in spec motor classes
not sure on the xray eliminator screw pattern?
12-26-2016, 08:10 PM
#4287
Looking for info on running my ce on clay....
if I am running on med grip clay would I want the shocks on the front of the rear tower or on the backside?
Also would the carbon chasis help with grip compared to the alum chasis?
I'm trying to run my carpet car on clay without spending hundreds to convert the entire thing. So what would be the best couple things to swap over? Like if I wanted to just put the plastic towers on can I do that or do I more or less need to do a complete conversion?
if I am running on med grip clay would I want the shocks on the front of the rear tower or on the backside?
Also would the carbon chasis help with grip compared to the alum chasis?
I'm trying to run my carpet car on clay without spending hundreds to convert the entire thing. So what would be the best couple things to swap over? Like if I wanted to just put the plastic towers on can I do that or do I more or less need to do a complete conversion?
12-26-2016, 08:17 PM
#4288
Looking for info on running my ce on clay....
if I am running on med grip clay would I want the shocks on the front of the rear tower or on the backside?
Also would the carbon chasis help with grip compared to the alum chasis?
I'm trying to run my carpet car on clay without spending hundreds to convert the entire thing. So what would be the best couple things to swap over? Like if I wanted to just put the plastic towers on can I do that or do I more or less need to do a complete conversion?
if I am running on med grip clay would I want the shocks on the front of the rear tower or on the backside?
Also would the carbon chasis help with grip compared to the alum chasis?
I'm trying to run my carpet car on clay without spending hundreds to convert the entire thing. So what would be the best couple things to swap over? Like if I wanted to just put the plastic towers on can I do that or do I more or less need to do a complete conversion?
12-26-2016, 08:28 PM
#4290
Medium Grip:
- shocks on rear of arm
- brass RF hanger (exotek is heavier but X-ray will do but less weight and expensive
- can also add sticky weight under gearbox
- lay shock down inner hole on rear shock tower if not getting enough traction. That helps a lot at the expense of rotation
- pills located facing down for lower roll center
- X-ray carbon chassis helps but only the X-ray version. Exotek is stiffer than stock
- can take a few screws out if the waterfall for extra flex and tape your battery in remove battery strap.
I'd start with the brass RF hanger, then laying shock down, then weight under gearbox followed by the rest. Always a trade off as each will compromise steering
- shocks on rear of arm
- brass RF hanger (exotek is heavier but X-ray will do but less weight and expensive
- can also add sticky weight under gearbox
- lay shock down inner hole on rear shock tower if not getting enough traction. That helps a lot at the expense of rotation
- pills located facing down for lower roll center
- X-ray carbon chassis helps but only the X-ray version. Exotek is stiffer than stock
- can take a few screws out if the waterfall for extra flex and tape your battery in remove battery strap.
I'd start with the brass RF hanger, then laying shock down, then weight under gearbox followed by the rest. Always a trade off as each will compromise steering
Looking for info on running my ce on clay....
if I am running on med grip clay would I want the shocks on the front of the rear tower or on the backside?
Also would the carbon chasis help with grip compared to the alum chasis?
I'm trying to run my carpet car on clay without spending hundreds to convert the entire thing. So what would be the best couple things to swap over? Like if I wanted to just put the plastic towers on can I do that or do I more or less need to do a complete conversion?
if I am running on med grip clay would I want the shocks on the front of the rear tower or on the backside?
Also would the carbon chasis help with grip compared to the alum chasis?
I'm trying to run my carpet car on clay without spending hundreds to convert the entire thing. So what would be the best couple things to swap over? Like if I wanted to just put the plastic towers on can I do that or do I more or less need to do a complete conversion?